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Engine rebuilding info for a 1950 Champion 6?

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  • charlie
    replied
    Hi There,

    I just purchased a 3 maunual set for my 1950 commander (Land Cruiser) one is the chasis manual
    two is the shop manual
    three is the body manual

    All 3 for $60 at Studebaker International and they have lots of details.

    charlie

    Leave a comment:


  • Guido
    replied
    quote: I would also be concerned that the increased power of the V8 would require me to upgrade other parts of my drivetrain to handle the stress, while the six will work just fine with the relatively weak stock components of a CJ2A.
    Every CJ2A that I have ever known of came from the factory with the 134 CID 4 cylinder motor. Willy's did not get the Super Hurricane 226 until after the merger with Kaiser.


    Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

    Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

    Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    Last time I did one, there was a set of oil restrictors that came with the the rings. I think they went in over the valve lifters. Oil consumption was a problem with the sixes.


    Studebaker On The Net
    http://stude.com
    Studebaker News Group
    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
    Arnold Md.
    65 Sports Sedan(sold)
    64 Daytona HT
    63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Avanti R1/AC
    63 Avanti R2/4 speed
    63 Daytona HT
    63 Lark 2 dr.
    62 Lark 2 door
    62 GT(parts car)
    60 Lark convert
    60 Hawk
    57 Silver Hawk
    52 Starliner(sold)
    51 Commander
    50 Champion (sold)

    Leave a comment:


  • John Kirchhoff
    replied
    The cylinder bore diameter should be stamped on th etop of the cylinder next to the bore. The manual says bore sizes will vary from 3.0000 inches which is stamped ")" to 3.0025 which is stamped "25". It looks like the acceptable out of round or taper in excess of .002". However, even if the bore is beyond that, I bet new rings would provide satisfactory service. It's not like you need it to run another 100,000 miles. It may use some oil or have some extra blow by, but so what?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ceol
    replied
    Well, JDP, I got the straight six with the Jeep. I want to learn more about engine mechanics, so I like the idea of a flathead rather than a V8; the flathead is simpler. I would also be concerned that the increased power of the V8 would require me to upgrade other parts of my drivetrain to handle the stress, while the six will work just fine with the relatively weak stock components of a CJ2A. And lastly, the six looks good enough inside that I don't think much work will be required.

    Down the road, though, my Stude-Jeep may get lonely and need a companion with a V8.

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    Just a idea. The hot swap is a Studebaker V8 into a Jeep, it still bolts to your transmission, and decent uses ones cost less than a rebuild on a six.


    Studebaker On The Net
    http://stude.com
    Studebaker News Group
    http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
    Arnold Md.
    65 Sports Sedan(sold)
    64 Daytona HT
    63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Avanti R1/AC
    63 Avanti R2/4 speed
    63 Daytona HT
    63 Lark 2 dr.
    62 Lark 2 door
    62 GT(parts car)
    60 Lark convert
    60 Hawk
    57 Silver Hawk
    52 Starliner(sold)
    51 Commander
    50 Champion (sold)

    Leave a comment:


  • Ceol
    replied
    I haven't joined the Club, mainly because my engine is going into a 1950s Jeep rather than a Studebaker vehicle.

    Leave a comment:


  • rockne10
    replied
    Ceol,
    I hope you've also joined the Studebaker Drivers Club. The resources you'll find are infinite.

    Brad Johnson
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    33 Rockne 10
    51 Commander Starlight
    53 Commander Starlight

    previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

    Leave a comment:


  • Ceol
    replied
    Thanks, Dave - I found and ordered a shop manual this morning. [8D]

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeDave57
    replied
    Studebaker shop repair manuals (and parts to rebuild said motor) are availible all over. A good place to start would be here:

    http://www.studebakervendors.com/

    Good luck with the project!!!

    StudeDave [8D]
    V/P San Diego County SDC
    San Diego, Ca


    '54 Commander 4dr 'Ruby'
    '57 Parkview (it's a 2dr wagon...) 'Betsy'
    '57 Commander 2dr 'Baby'
    '57 Champion 2dr 'Jewel'
    '58 Packard sedan 'Cleo'
    '65 Cruiser 'Sweet Pea'

    Leave a comment:


  • Ceol
    started a topic Engine rebuilding info for a 1950 Champion 6?

    Engine rebuilding info for a 1950 Champion 6?

    I've got a Studebaker engine which you kind folks helped me to identify a few months back as a 1950 170ci Champion. Well, I finally got a chance to tear it apart to inspect it, and I wonder if you could help me find some information on it.

    The engine looks great inside, at leat to my amateur eye. I've had some experience rebuilding small engines on modern portable generators, and the Stude looks to have a very similar design to those gennys, just with six cylinders instead of one or two. So, I'm reasonably confident that I can make the Stude work well.

    Actually, the only problem I saw with it was a whole lot of carbon in the head and on the plugs, suggesting that it burns oil. I haven't taken the pistons out yet, but I'm suspecting that I'll find the rings worn. The oil pump, valve seats, timing gears, and valve springs all looked cherry.

    Anyway, rambling aside, does anyone know where I can find some specs like various bolt torque settings, and exact cylinder diameter? Or better yet, are there any printed manuals for rebuilding these engines? This is all fairly new territory for me, but I'm really excited about the possibility of getting this engine into perfect shape.
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