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44 rear end

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  • Rear Axle: 44 rear end

    Is the studebaker syder gear the same in the rear as other make dana 44's? What I want to know is are there other axles from brand x's where you could cut and swap out the axle shaft ends and reweld them and swap the axles to end up with a better axle? Not sure I want to do this just a thought.

  • #2
    Cutting and welding, not a good idea.
    By the time you "properly" (even sorta) prep. an axle for fitting and welding, it's much easier (cost ?) to just go buy a modern posi and 31 spline axles.

    That's what I did.
    See all the posibilities from Currie Ent. for the Dana 44.

    A Stude engine will never break one setup like this...!

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    • #3
      To answer your first question, yes. Many older vehicles used Dana 44's. There are plenty of Jeeps out there with Dana 44's. That's where I got a 3.73 ring and pinion from. Jeeps, and others used 19 spline axles. You could swap internals but axle lengths are not the same and many are vehicle, or product line, specific. As Mike said it is easier and safer not to cut and weld axles and end up with nothing better. Later flanged axle Studebaker 44's have slightly different internals but all can be swapped in but not a part swap. ie. inner bearings have different inside diameter dimensions so the complete carrier and bearings need to be used. Flanged axle kits, are available at Fairborn Studebaker http://www.fairbornstudebaker.com/index.html , axles made by Moser, will not give you any trouble and will make for a better differential, also available from different Studebaker vendors. A few manufactures sell posi centers and new ring and pinions so parts are not a problem. It just cost dollars or many hours of part hunting. If you want more then use the Currie Ent. that Mike mentioned. The more splines the better.

      The question is what do you want to end up with? Flanged axles, easier brake access, stronger setup, or just thinking out loud?

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      • #4
        Thinking out loud and a easier way to get at the brakes for rebuild and hopefully cheaper easier to get parts.I wasn't going to cut and weld the axle it's self just the outer ends of the housing tubes to the closest axle lenght that I could find.

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        • #5
          I don't believe you can swap in flanged axles from another, later Dana 44. The axle tubes are different to house the outer bearings. You can, however, use the Fairborn flange axle upgrade kit.
          Jim
          Often in error, never in doubt
          http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

          ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

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          • #6
            Well the outer end of the housing where the bearing goes and the brake hardware and backing plate mounts is why I thought I would have to cut and weld the end of housing to the stude rear end from what ever the axles come from.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
              Thinking out loud and a easier way to get at the brakes for rebuild and hopefully cheaper easier to get parts.I wasn't going to cut and weld the axle it's self just the outer ends of the housing tubes to the closest axle length that I could find.
              Even then if you just wanted to do it for something to do it could work and you would have a story to tell. Especially if you documented it with pictures. There are far easier ways to go if you just want a better differential. There are a few Ford 8.8 that are close enough to fit and if you are confident enough to cut and weld the axle tubes of your Dana 44 then moving the spring perches will be a cakewalk. Using a Ford 8.8 open up a new world of easy parts and modifications as well.

              As some have pointed out parts from a flanged axle Studebaker won't swap in. I have not played with one so I only knew about the center section not fitting easily. Anyway if brake access is the most important take a look on page 12 of the included pdf. Good thing we are on a forum with people who don't mind pointing out my mistakes. otherwise I might go around continuing to reason with myself wrong things and passing them on to others. Thanks jlmccuan for you input. That's what the forum is all about.

              http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...rakes_long.pdf

              I did this to my Dana 27 before I decided to swap it out for a 44 with the Moser flanged axles. It does make life easier and it one of the cheapest ways to make a tapered axle give you the accessibility of a flanged axle. You still have not increased the safety factor but if your differential has been cared for and the axles have no cracks then it will serve you well for many more years. The only thing I found was the Volvo studs did not like my Centerline wheels. the shoulder came out too far and the taper on the inside of the rotary forged center of the wheel interfered. A quick counter sinking shave of the stud holes and all was well.

              Which ever way you decide to go keep us informed.

              Len.

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              • #8
                I just put in a Ford 8.8 from a 1990 Mustang into a 63 Lark Project. I was told that welding on the tubes was tricky, so I had a weld shop do it that put it on a jig. No issues. Welder said if you went slow, you could do it on the floor. Installed new 5 lug axles, bearings and seals. Did have to have u bolts made as the mustang tubes are 2.75", could have probably used 3" u bolts, but figured do it right, do it once! One thing I did learn is that there is a cross pin and retainer bolt in the pinion that goes through the center to hold in the trac-loc and prevent the axles from sliding in, these can take a beating so plan on replacing them. You get both the cross pin and bolt if you buy the part from Ford. My ford mechanic friend says he replaces them on almost everyone he opens up, especially crown vic cop cars! Retainer bolt can break, so be careful!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
                  Thinking out loud and a easier way to get at the brakes for rebuild and hopefully cheaper easier to get parts.I wasn't going to cut and weld the axle it's self just the outer ends of the housing tubes to the closest axle lenght that I could find.
                  If you're looking for easier rear brake access, think about separating the rear brake drum from its flange....just be sure to always re-install the drum onto the flange in its original position.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Axle tubes can be cut and re welded, BUT, when you are welding them, the way I've seen it done, is to have a solid bar that just fits the tube ends, weld it, then walk away until it cools. With the bar stock in the housing, it will end up straight, and not warped.
                    Doing something like this is best left to the guys that do it all the time!

                    Jim
                    "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                    We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


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