Clutch / Torque Converter: Which Clutch and Pressure Plate?

[61Lark]

I'm looking for a standard duty 10.5" Borg and Beck clutch and pressure plate for a 64 Studebaker. Where is everyone getting them from these days? I'm removing the 2700 lb. Hays pressure plate after it wrecked the cross shaft in the bell housing in less than 1000 miles.

Thanks,
Nick

[StudeRich]

The 259 Engine gets a 10 Inch Pressure Plate with 9 Springs and less pressure than the 289 10 1/2" P/P, the Avanti & H.D. Truck is a 12 Spring with even more spring pressure, same as 409 Chev. and 426 Hemi Dodge. If I remember correctly those are only about 1200 Lbs.

Your best bet is always a Local Clutch Rebuilder, NOT an Auto Parts Store, New, from China POC like a "Zoom" Clutch.

You can use a lot stronger Pressure Plate with a through the floor Pedal than an overhead style, with no Linkage or Leg issue, my Transtar is 3400 Lbs. and 12 Inches.

[jackb]

unless you plan on towing, or grunting on the pedal...get the whole 10 inch shooting match from one of our vendors...Dave T-bow comes to mind...

[61Lark]

The 259 Engine gets a 10 Inch Pressure Plate with 9 Springs and less pressure than the 289 10 1/2" P/P, the Avanti & H.D. Truck is a 12 Spring with even more spring pressure, same as 409 Chev. and 426 Hemi Dodge. If I remember correctly those are only about 1200 Lbs.

Your best bet is always a Local Clutch Rebuilder, NOT an Auto Parts Store, New, from China POC like a "Zoom" Clutch.

You can use a lot stronger Pressure Plate with a through the floor Pedal than an overhead style, with no Linkage or Leg issue, my Transtar is 3400 Lbs. and 12 Inches.

unless you plan on towing, or grunting on the pedal...get the whole 10 inch shooting match from one of our vendors...Dave T-bow comes to mind...

My car has a 289 with 4 bbl. and has been converted to a T5 so I definitely want to keep the 10.5" clutch. I'd have a local place rebuild my old clutch if such a place existed. The Twin Cities has an amazing variety of shops, but unfortunately I can't find a clutch rebuilder.

I've got a parts car that has the through the floor setup. In this case its the cross shaft in the bell housing that the throw out bearing mounts that is the issue, which is the same part in either setup.

I'll give Dave T-bow a call on Monday. I've been dragging my feet on calling him about a new distributor so now is probably the time to call.

Thanks,
Nick

[Alan]

Nick; How did it wreck the cross shaft? In the 55 years that I have been driving Studes I have never had a failure of the cross shaft. Would like to know what the failure point is. And could help someone in future to prevent it from happening.

[61Lark]

Not the shaft itself, but the forks. I'm going through the same issues that Doug Bowen went through here: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...t-64-Commander

[55coupe]

Nick thanks for posting this question. Right now I'm looking at this same issue, I've got a 289 to install with a t85 od trans. After going over other posts most say get the old stuff rebuilt but someone suggested a unit from a 70's amc jeep with a 304 v8 has anyone out there used this unit? It's supposed to be a boltin replacement.

[bezhawk]

Nick thanks for posting this question. Right now I'm looking at this same issue, I've got a 289 to install with a t85 od trans. After going over other posts most say get the old stuff rebuilt but someone suggested a unit from a 70's amc jeep with a 304 v8 has anyone out there used this unit? It's supposed to be a boltin replacement.

I have used that unit, and indeed it was a direct bolt in unit. Make sure it is the Borg & Beck type and not the diaphragm unit. That is the direct replacement.

[61Lark]

I have used that unit, and indeed it was a direct bolt in unit. Make sure it is the Borg & Beck type and not the diaphragm unit. That is the direct replacement.

Do you happen to have a part number or where you purchased it from?

Thank you.

[61Lark]

My local store is able to get this clutch in a day. http://www.amsautomotive.com/AMS/Tem...8&KITID=01-505

I might order one and bring my old one in for comparison.

[bezhawk]

That was it

[JoeHall]

I like that the AMC kit above says "standard duty replacement". But still would advise comparing AMC specs with Stude's. As long as they are close, that would be great. But I'd stay away from anything "heavy duty", since it is not needed for 99 percent of Stude owners' applications, and causes the clutch linkage to be far more susceptible to failure. Not to mention sever left leg fatigue, if caught in traffic

[StudeRich]

The FIRST thing I would want to know that is not mentioned in the "Specs", is how much PSI Pressure does this Cover Plate have. I am thinking not a lot, since it is also used on the I6 Engine.

[RadioRoy]

Many time the rebuilders use the strongest springs possible, so that the same pressure plate/clutch cover assembly will work on a greater number of applications. That way they have fewer part numbers to stock. I always look for the ones with the least pressure to relieve leg fatigue. Of course, I don't have any hopped up engines, either.

[JoeHall]

The FIRST thing I would want to know that is not mentioned in the "Specs", is how much PSI Pressure does this Cover Plate have. I am thinking not a lot, since it is also used on the I6 Engine.

The spec I was referring to is the pressure plate spring pressure. Looking in the 59-64 Shop Manual, for 1964, I see the PSI for 10.5" diameter, V8 pressure plates ranged from 1456 to 1784, with the 1784 for JT w/4 speed. All came with 9 springs except the 1784, which had 12.

So the OP, in trying to use the 2700 PSI Hayden beast, was asking the OEM clutch linkage to operate under a load pressure 1.5 to 1.85 times greater than the original. Its a no brainer why miscellaneous linkage components fail, and will continue to fail till a pressure plate more akin to OEM is installed.

The HD clutch is only useful if going 1/4 mile at a time. In practical driving for the other 99 percent of us, it is worse than useless, since it causes problems with premature failure of linkage components. At least that was my experience when I tried to run one, back in the day.

With the AMC part, if it is close to OEM Stude it should be fine. OTOH, if it is a one size fits all, HD part, it is useless. Need to determine its pressure before can determine if it is a suitable replacement. Unless someone has already tried one, and can speak to its pressure using a leg meter. Sounds like maybe Bez has done so.