Question

[gordr]

quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

Does any one know if the Dodge Truck valve is anything like the "Ball Valves" that the Studebaker Vendors, and I guess NAPA sell as universal replacement heater control valves?

These REALLY work smooth and nice, NOT tight like those old original plunger & packing type that ruin the cable!

And they come in the correct 5/8" for 1958 & Prior and 3/4" for 1959 and later Studes. In some models a "pull to open" is required and the valve may be "Pull to close" however, which works fine on '59-'60 Larks once you remember which is which!

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

Rich, the Dodge heater valves referenced work like a petcock. A cylinder sits across the flow path, and that cylinder has a cross-drilled hole. Over something less than 1/4 turn, you can turn that cylinder from a position where the cross-hole lines up fully with the hoses to where it is completely blocked.

Those plunger type valves are a real sorry piece of engineering: massive, heavy, stiff to operate, and difficult to shut off completely. I'd only ever use one for a concours restoration.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Harvey]

I agree, teflon tape is a poor choice. Use a thread sealant paste such as Rectorseal #5. Make sure your thread sealantis ethylene glycol resistant? Not all plumbing thread sealant pastes are antifreeze resistant. Thread sealant paste conforms to all the imperfections on the threading surfaces. The more you unscrew and retighten the fitting, the more damage and distortion of the threaded surface can occur.

[HookedonStudies]

I personally wouldn't use teflon tape on anything threaded into a casting, for exactly the reason stated above. There are good TFE based paste alternatives available.

55 Commander
58 Transtar
62 GT Hawk
66 Cruiser

[StudeRich]

Does any one know if the Dodge Truck valve is anything like the "Ball Valves" that the Studebaker Vendors, and I guess NAPA sell as universal replacement heater control valves?

These REALLY work smooth and nice, NOT tight like those old original plunger & packing type that ruin the cable!

And they come in the correct 5/8" for 1958 & Prior and 3/4" for 1959 and later Studes. In some models a "pull to open" is required and the valve may be "Pull to close" however, which works fine on '59-'60 Larks once you remember which is which!

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

From the Studebaker Truck forum:

Dodge pickups from the '70s (1978 dodge) have an in-line water valve with a lever action that can be readily operated by the existing Stude truck heater control cable. The action of the valve is easy, and much more positive than the original Stude valve.

You can get them for a buck or two at your local PickAPart, and I expect new ones can be had from NAPA, as well.

One hose nipple is 5/8" IIRC, and the other 1/2", but you can clamp the hose down on the smaller nipple OK.

These are real easy to install on a 2R series truck, and require no mounting bracket.

quote:Originally posted by n6346m

Hey I need one of those valves. Any chance you can dig up a part number for me?

Bob Picard
1951 2R16A Fuel Truck
Anchor Point, Alaska

[n6346m]

Hey I need one of those valves. Any chance you can dig up a part number for me?
Bob

quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

I hate those original valves! What a pain.[xx(] There's also a valve that screws in like the original, but is lots easier to operate and hook up to the existing cable. AMC used them right thru the mid-60s and last time I bought one, I got it from NAPA.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle


1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Bob Picard
1951 2R16A Fuel Truck
Anchor Point, Alaska

[Roscomacaw]

I hate those original valves! What a pain.[xx(] There's also a valve that screws in like the original, but is lots easier to operate and hook up to the existing cable. AMC used them right thru the mid-60s and last time I bought one, I got it from NAPA.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle


1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

quote:Originally posted by gordr

The packing under that brass gland nut should be made of graphited cord, which is self-lubricating.

Those particular valves are indeed correct for Studebakers, but they are pretty stiff in operation, and it's hard to fully close them. If the truck is not going to go in concours judging, I'd recommend you keep that valve in the trophy bin, and substitute one of the inline valves as used on Dodge truck for many, many years. They work easily and don't leak.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[gordr]

The packing under that brass gland nut should be made of graphited cord, which is self-lubricating.

Those particular valves are indeed correct for Studebakers, but they are pretty stiff in operation, and it's hard to fully close them. If the truck is not going to go in concours judging, I'd recommend you keep that valve in the trophy bin, and substitute one of the inline valves as used on Dodge truck for many, many years. They work easily and don't leak.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

The antifreeze doesn't reach the upper portion of the assembly.

quote:Originally posted by Lincoln77

Not an expert but I would say that the antifreeze would lubricate it.

[DEEPNHOCK]

It is OK to use Teflon tape on those threads for the valve going into the head.
But.....
Always remember the number one rule of Teflon tape and castings...
[u]1&1/2 wraps only!</u>
More than that and you are tempting the broken casting demons...
(The #2 rule is [u]NEVER</u> on anything in the fuel system)
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by HHH

I have a '52 Studebaker 2R11.
&lt;snip&gt;
Also, should I use tape on the threads that go into the head?

[Lincoln77]

Not an expert but I would say that the antifreeze would lubricate it.

1963 Cruiser, 1963 Wagonaire, 1952 Champion. Based in Oregon.

[HHH]

I have a '52 Studebaker 2R11.

On the water/heater control valve that comes off the engines head, I'm wondering if a lubricant is necessary under the threaded brass cap.

Also, should I use tape on the threads that go into the head?