RAD Ideas : Mustang GT and Cobra brake adapter bracket update

[sbca96]

Thanks for all the interest and kind words.

I am in the process of getting the wifes 1986 IROC out of the garage and my dad's 1969 Avanti II in so I can do a fresh install.

I am not sure what the Forum rules are about posting pricing of things, so until I know its best to keep to PM or email.

Tom

[rkapteyn]

Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?
Jim Turner has been manufacturing disk brake systems for years with hundreds of sets sold to many satisfied customers.
The market is small and discouraging if someone tries to duplicate your efforts.
Support your vendors.

http://www.turnerbrake.com/intro.html

Robert Kapteyn

[Milaca]

Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?
Jim Turner has been manufacturing disk brake systems for years with hundreds of sets sold to many satisfied customers.
The market is small and discouraging if someone tries to duplicate your efforts.
Support your vendors.

Robert Kapteyn

Robert,
I understand and mostly agree with your point of view, but I think improving upon something should be encouraged. The benefit of Tom's disc brake setup is that it uses newer and improved disc calipers.

[acolds]

The idea of using stock Studebaker hub adding Mustang caliper and disc and also to go to larger diameter with same setup is a marked
advantage in my view. Getting a kit from Tom would make him the vendor I would be supporting

[sbca96]

Hey all, sorry for the delay. I got my dads Avanti into the garage finally to do the install and confirm fitment
but I got sidetracked. The drivers side power window didnt work, so I read some things and figured that just
a simple cleanup of the motor and I would be good to go. That turned into finding the door had a large hole
in the center where the lift pivot mounts and a repair I didnt want to leave. I also found the factory rubber
dipped motor had filled with water and looked like something recovered from the Titanic. The more I got into
it the more it got involved - as these things tend to do. The stock motor is hard to find and expensive, so I
checked a mid-1990s GM motor I had laying around .. and now I am making yet another prototype adapter to
test. I will create a separate thread for that effort, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

Thanks to all the supporters of new ideas and alternatives.

Tom

[sbca96]

Slow Progress

I also should mention that I messed up my back starting at work a week ago, then carrying over to work around
the house, so I am taking it slow .. tonight - jack the car up, support it, and remove wheels.













Tom

[sbca96]

Taking it slow.... Off with the old ...











Now wipe up some of the crud ..



This surface is where the adapter sits, and what makes it true to the spindle. Same mounting as the original 6061-T6 Adapter.



Best to use a scraper and make sure there isnt anything keeping the Adapter from sitting flat.



Then I use a flat fine file and just lightly run it over the face to make sure there aren't any burrs. JUST the face of the spindle, don't nick the seal surface!



All clean and ready for the Adapter.



Tom

[sbca96]

I had a bag of bolts left over from the prototype install a decade ago .. so back in use ..









Don't forget to torque things ...





Also left over was the original hubs I had modified for the 11" GT rotors, since the inside diameter of the rotor "hat" is smaller than the Studebaker hub, the outside diameter needs to be turned down. This is not required for the 13" Cobra rotors. Also the hubs have the shouldered wheel studs installed .. all covered in earlier posts on the Forum.



The Mustang rotor is drilled with a metric size, they are drilled out just slightly to slide on the wheel stud shoulders, again, all this covered on earlier posts. I use the wheel nuts flipped backward - flat side toward the rotor to "Draw" the rotor onto the stud shoulder. You dont want to hammer since you will push the studs out. Once this is done, the rotor stays put with wheel removals.







Tom

[sbca96]

Here is the huge Mustang GT Caliper, with pads that make the stock front brakes look like rear calipers.



Looking good I'll say ... there you go Dad! This has been waiting in my garage for a decade to go on his car - since before he was diagnosed.







Tom

[sbca96]

Hey all,

Sorry this project kinda stalled. I think I mentioned that the Ford power window motor gave up the ghost on the drivers door so I have
been working on a GM motor to Studebaker regulator adapter (yes its complete and works beautifully) so the brake 'stopped abruptly'.

Also needed attention were the brake hose adapters. I never offered these before and so this was a prototype run, for which I had a
set of 25 made. Unfortunately, I measured wrong and the through hole feature for the hose was too small. I figured out a rework and
got in line with a local machine shop for an opening. The parts are fixed and I just need to install a set on my Dads car to confirm.

I was also able to check the factory steel wheel. These are most definitely "drum brake" wheels, they do not have a provision for the
caliper. It is clear why even Turner Brakes requires modern 'disc brake" wheels. The factory wheels have the welded area right at the
caliper level. I have been sourcing 15 inch steel wheels and found that the 1994-1996 Mustang V6 DID have 15 inch steel wheels. The
Part number is a F4ZZ1007E which appears to cross to a Keystone STL03102U. It is a 15 x 6.5 inch wheel, but not overly common.



Just so you know we are still moving forward now .. though slowly. Thanks for your patience and interest.

Tom

[sbca96]

Got a little more done, attacked the passenger side. Same process as the drivers.





Mounted the GT modified Hub .. remember the outer edge of the Hug needs to be machined just enough to fit into the hat of the rotor.



The hub fits into the center of the bracket, which includes a grease trap that Studebaker included in their design.



I was able to bleed the brakes just fine and finally got a good pedal. I hope to get it out of the garage this weekend and get a few
pictures of the car with the new wheels. I got the same rims that I have on my black Avanti, but they only had black left. It looks
better then I thought .. might not be for everyone .. but I will run them for now and possibly chrome them in a few years.

Tom

[Treblig]

Don't remember you mentioning that you used lock tight on all the brake components?? It's very important in certain places.

Treblig

[sbca96]

The Caliper bolts have loctite on them when you use the factory ones, in other areas I used bolts, with lock washers AND crimp lock nuts.

We are fine .. but yes .. thats good to note.

Tom

[Kdancy]

Tom, which mc are you using with your set up? I have done several disc brake conversions using stude vendors kits and can say I think the drum brakes were actually better. I have a lot of issues with pedal feel and lack of good pedal. One thing I did find out is the relationship between the mc and calipers, both must be matching quick uptake or regular uptake. I had a heck of a time with the disc brake conversion kit on a 60 Champ PU until I finally matched them up. Now the brakes are very good. Also have been conversing with a long time Studebaker mechanic in North Fla that has the same poor pedal/brake issues with disc brake conversion kits that I have had.
He has decided to quit doing the conversions and stick with drum brakes.

[JoeHall]

Tom, which mc are you using with your set up? I have done several disc brake conversions using stude vendors kits and can say I think the drum brakes were actually better. I have a lot of issues with pedal feel and lack of good pedal. One thing I did find out is the relationship between the mc and calipers, both must be matching quick uptake or regular uptake. I had a heck of a time with the disc brake conversion kit on a 60 Champ PU until I finally matched them up. Now the brakes are very good. Also have been conversing with a long time Studebaker mechanic in North Fla that has the same poor pedal/brake issues with disc brake conversion kits that I have had.
He has decided to quit doing the conversions and stick with drum brakes.

Main reason I switched to DBs on all Studes many years ago is brake shoe material; just cannot find shoes lined with bronze sintered asbestos anymore, and the EPA mandated material is junk. A year or so ago, I saw a for sale ad in the Swap section here for NOS shoes lined with, "the good stuff". I ASSumed the seller was talking about bronze and asbestos. The last drum braked Hawk I had would go through red lights with me standing on the pedal; minimal initial grab, and they faded to nothing within a few feet.

Another problem inherent with drums is that they pull side to side. When Stude advertised their DBs in 1963, they touted how DBs have, "straight line stopping". Anyone who has driven with drum brakes much knows exactly what they were referring to.

I would never advise anyone to go back to drum brakes, who actually drives their Stude at modern speeds. The life you save may be your own.

Tom, thanks for all the work you are doing to develop even more refined DBs for our Studes