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Missing VIN Plate

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  • Body: Missing VIN Plate


    The problem is the VIN plate was removed from the driverside door fender panel during some prior re-paint. I have a clean title and I am sure this is the correct car, just no VIN plate.
    Am I worked up for nothing? Can I get a new VIN plate? Advice?
    Last edited by Studebaker1962; 03-02-2014, 08:47 AM.
    Studebaker1962

  • #2
    I'd go to Your local RMV with the paperwork and explain the situation. It shouldn't be a problem. If Your Hawk has a clean frame, the serial number will also be on the rearmost frame crossmember, visible above the right side of the rear tailpipe valance panel.

    Comment


    • #3
      If you get the build sheet from the SNM it will show the body and engine numbers to go with the Serial Number (what you call a "VIN").
      This should help to prove the Hawk's identity to the DMV.
      Are you looking in the correct place for the S/N plte? It is not on a "fender panel". It should be on the driver's side A-pillar.
      Gary L.
      Wappinger, NY

      SDC member since 1968
      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

      Comment


      • #4
        Studegary


        Per your advice I will contact the SNM

        Regards,
        Jim Studebaker
        Last edited by Studebaker1962; 03-02-2014, 11:57 AM.
        Studebaker1962

        Comment


        • #5
          Here is what they look like installed, the 2 small holes were designed to line up the Serial Number Plate for welding, sometimes they were used, others not so much. This one is lined up very well, most are not.

          Click image for larger version

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          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #6
            If you can determine the original serial number, I can supply you with a new blank plate and decal that can be engraved to suit.

            Chris.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Studebaker1962 View Post
              Studegary


              Per your advice I will contact the SNM

              Regards,
              Jim Studebaker
              I mostly wanted to get correct information out for others reading this thread/topic, not to be critical of you.

              The only "threaded holes" in that area are for the interior light switch. The Serial Number plate is attached with spot welds. It is very unusual for anyone to remove a welded on plate for a re-paint, but it has happened. Usually people just mask the plate off. For a re-paint in the same color, usually the door jambs are not even re-painted.
              I hope that the build sheet supports the agreement (not the same number, but the correct numbers) of the Serial Number, body number and engine number of this Hawk.
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

              Comment


              • #8
                There are two holes available to locate or hold the vin plate while it was being spot welded to the post. I have seen cars with screws holding the plates that were never spot welded from the factory.
                I would go with the reproduced plate and install it rather than suffer through the dmv nonsense. They impounded one of my cars due to a typo on the title and told me to shut up when I tried to tell them where to find the hidden number for verification. Not impressed with the dmv.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by nels View Post
                  There are two holes available to locate or hold the vin plate while it was being spot welded to the post. I have seen cars with screws holding the plates that were never spot welded from the factory.
                  I would go with the reproduced plate and install it rather than suffer through the dmv nonsense. They impounded one of my cars due to a typo on the title and told me to shut up when I tried to tell them where to find the hidden number for verification. Not impressed with the dmv.
                  I 2nd Nels thoughts and being able to get a new tag from Chris is nice then take it to a trophy shop and they can do any size letters and numbers you need, should have an old one to get the right size, been there done that.
                  Candbstudebakers
                  Castro Valley,
                  California


                  Comment


                  • #10
                    DO NOT GO TO THE DMV. Geez, the nightmare that can cause. As mentioned, get the build sheet and verify the serial number and the rear crossmember. Get the plate and decal from Chris. A trophy shop can do the engraving, but get the size of the number/letters and I'd try to find a representative number or letter to show the engraver. He needs to know that a '1' is actually an 'I'. The font is a little unique.

                    The spotwelding on these plates varied from car to car. Mine came off with a slight tug. There was usually two welds, one high and one low, but again, no absolutes. Make sure your happy with the hinge pillar before installing.
                    Tom - Bradenton, FL

                    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Despite what the museum says, I have also seen these plates screwed to the pillar, rather than spot welded. This seems more common on Canadian assembled cars.

                      The information sheet the SNM sends you with production orders says all Studebaker serial number plates were spot welded to the body. Not true!

                      Chris.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The later Canadian Cars as my '66, have the special Rivets holding them on with a peculiar head only used by Auto Manufacturers.
                        Last edited by StudeRich; 03-04-2014, 06:35 PM.
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Swifster View Post
                          DO NOT GO TO THE DMV. Geez, the nightmare that can cause. As mentioned, get the build sheet and verify the serial number and the rear crossmember. Get the plate and decal from Chris. A trophy shop can do the engraving, but get the size of the number/letters and I'd try to find a representative number or letter to show the engraver. He needs to know that a '1' is actually an 'I'. The font is a little unique.

                          The spotwelding on these plates varied from car to car. Mine came off with a slight tug. There was usually two welds, one high and one low, but again, no absolutes. Make sure your happy with the hinge pillar before installing.

                          There is nothing illegal about replacing a serial number plate with a new one as long as it matches the title and "hidden" serial numbers. No DMV is gong to know or care what font or attachment method was used originally. If the number belongs to the car, that's all they care about.

                          In fact of all the cars I've registered in multiple states, no one has ever even looked at the serial number. Take in a clean title and bill of sale, they don't want to see the car.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Post #13 may be true in some States for simply renewing a License Plate or Transferring a Title WITHIN STATE, but we are talking about being prepared for the long term issue of having to transfer the Car to other owners. Who, if they live in a different State, WILL have to have the VIN (Serial # in our case) verified by authorities to know that the other States' Paper matches the Car.
                            Some of these people understand older Cars and a lot do not.

                            Some Southern and East Coast States may be very lax in doing this, but I assure you that all West Coast and probably Western States do check, been there, done that.

                            Fortunately there ARE books of this data for all years & makes, even where to look for the Visible # and the "Secret" serial number, that all Highway Patrol Agencies and State Motor Vehicle Registration Agencies SHOULD have access to.
                            StudeRich
                            Second Generation Stude Driver,
                            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              A member from the east coast called me once with problems he had to get his newly bought Studebaker titled.
                              The DMV could not find the secret serial number on the very rusty frame so they refused to issue a title.
                              I advised him to make a embossed plastic tape (DYMO) and glue it to the frame where the number was stamped on the frame and coat it with undercoating and spread fine dust on it.
                              He took it to an office in another city and it passed!
                              When he bought the car not knowing much about Studebakers he told me that it was a "matching numbers" car.
                              I asked him what he meant with that. he said that the VIN number on the doorpost matched the numbers on the title.

                              Robert Kapteyn

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