Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

My master cylinder may be on the way out

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brakes: My master cylinder may be on the way out

    The car: 1962 Lark Daytona

    The symptoms: When I pull up to a stop light, after 5-10 seconds the brake pedal seems to "soften" a bit, allowing me to push it down further. If I don't press the pedal further, the car will eventually start to creep forward. I never seem to actually lose braking even if I'm sitting at the light for quite a while, but the pedal does continue to slowly move toward the floor the longer I sit. Taking my foot off the pedal and pushing down again resets it to the original state but the pedal soon softens again.

    I'm told this can indicate a master cylinder going bad. What do you guys recommend in this case? It looks like I could get another single MC from rockauto for $80, or I could get the Turner dual MC kit for about $250... what other options are out there? I'm not hung up on keeping the car stock Studebaker parts only, I'm looking for safe, effective, affordable solutions, regardless of who made the parts.

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    Firstly, I would check if the level of brake fluid remains constant or not. If it does, the problem comes from the master cylinder or is caused by air in the circuit. If it doesn't, you have a leak. That may be the master cylinder but that may something else too.
    Nice day to all.
    sigpic

    Comment


    • #3
      I would check the fluid but from my experience I would say that the master is going. The rubber cups are losing the ability to seal. If it was me I would pull the master cylinder and match it up bore wise to a dual cylliner master and then do some replumbing. You will probably have to make your own rod to push the cyliner but that is an easy thing to do.
      If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

      65 2dr sedan
      64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
      61 V8 Tcab
      63 Tcab 20R powered
      55 Commander Wagon
      54 Champion Wagon
      46 Gibson Model A
      50 JD MC
      45 Agricat
      67 Triumph T100
      66 Bultaco Matadore

      Comment


      • #4
        Check with speedway they have a lot of master cylinders and power boost units.

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm thinking of just grabbing a single MC from Rockauto for right now, assuming it's a real drop-in replacement... anyone tried https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...978&cc=1490981 in their Lark? It seems like it should be a pretty simple matter of plugging in a new MC and flushing the brakes?

          I'd like to get a proper dual MC eventually but I might wait to do that until I can also put in discs at the same time.

          Comment


          • #6
            I am pretty sure the Dual master cylinder Kit you are looking at, at Turner Brake is not for firewall Mounted Master Cyl. Cars like '61 and Newer Larks. It is probably the much more complicated under the floor type.

            All you need to convert your '62 Lark to Dual M/C is the correct Push Rod for a '63-'64 with a Dual Master and a AMC Matador or Jeep Drum Brake Dual Master for about the same price as the Single, and after you make a brake line to the junction Block you should be good to go, cheaply!


            UPDATE: here is a Brand New one with Lifetime Warrantee for $27.00
            http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...86224_0_0_8305
            Last edited by StudeRich; 02-27-2014, 09:58 PM.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

            Comment


            • #7
              That's the correct m/c for your 62. Most simple way to go. You may see a bit of brake fluid on the firewall behind m/c and some evidence of leaking down the firewall. spray plenty of penetrant on the studs and be gentle trying to loosen. Studs are easily twisted out(my own 62 experience). Be sure to bench bleed, instructions will be in box.
              Hope this helps,
              Kim

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                I am pretty sure the Dual master cylinder Kit you are looking at, at Turner Brake is not for firewall Mounted Master Cyl. Cars like '61 and Newer Larks. It is probably the much more complicated under the floor type.

                All you need to convert your '62 Lark to Dual M/C is the correct Push Rod for a '63-'64 with a Dual Master and a AMC Matador or Jeep Drum Brake Dual Master for about the same price as the Single, and after you make a brake line to the junction Block you should be good to go, cheaply!
                Ok, that sounds really good. Can you recommend where to get an appropriate pushrod and MC? I don't know a thing about brake systems... would the 63 Lark pushrod "Just Work" with a Matador or Jeep MC? There's a tee right there near the driver's side wheelwell, would I basically be able to attach some new lines (via some sort of coupler) to the existing brake lines and run them directly up to the MC?

                Comment


                • #9
                  The "Push Rod" is a Studebaker Part for the Factory Dual Master Cylinders on '63 to '66 Lark Types with Drum Brakes and No Power. You would have to get that from a SDC Member from a Parts Car.

                  The AMC Master is a replacement for the original '63-'66 Dual Master, so that that is why the push Rod is correct for it.

                  You have to Plug the 3rd. port on the Brass "T" on the frame, connect the line from the "T" to the single Master to the REAR Port on the New Dual Master.

                  Then ADD a Line from the M/C FRONT Port to REPLACE the Line going from the "T" to the Rear Brakes by REPLACING the existing one with a longer one, the Junction coupler sleeve is under the driver's feet under the floor on the Frame.

                  The double flared steel 3/16" replacement Lines with compression Nuts are available in various lengths at your Auto Parts Store:
                  AutoZone, Pep Boys, CarQuest, NAPA, Advance Auto, Rock Auto who also have the Master Cyl.
                  The Price will vary wildly however.

                  Please remember this is a BRAKE System, THE most important System on the Car, so if you are not a proficient shade tree Mechanic, it may be better for safety reasons to take the Parts to a Professional Mechanic.
                  Last edited by StudeRich; 02-27-2014, 10:52 PM.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I agree that the brake system is the most important. If I can come up with an AMC master cylinder and a 63 Lark pushrod, I think I'll just take it to a shop. Shouldn't be too expensive, I wouldn't expect it to take more than an hour or two.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The problem with that is almost all shops wont use customer parts and especially parts that are not specifically listed for the car being repaired. Your best bet is to find a good custom shop. The mechanics being turned out today are as clueless as most of the parts counter help. If it doesn't have some sort of computer they give you a deer in the headlights look.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mikado282 View Post
                        The problem with that is almost all shops wont use customer parts and especially parts that are not specifically listed for the car being repaired. Your best bet is to find a good custom shop. The mechanics being turned out today are as clueless as most of the parts counter help. If it doesn't have some sort of computer they give you a deer in the headlights look.
                        Luckily there are a lot of shops near me, so I bet I can find one that will accept a customer part. I went ahead and ordered a replacement single MC for the time being, figuring that would be a simpler job for whatever shop I find. There's a custom car shop outside of town that specializes in classic cars, I think I'll call them for an estimate to compare against other shops in town.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You can also take the original push rod, cut off about a 1/4" drill and tap the end for a 10/32 button head allen, about a 3/4" long. You now have an adjustable push rod. That is what I did on a 62 Lark convertible that I had, use a 68 Mustang M/C and the ports will come out the left side away from the engine, leaving plenty of room to get the valve cover off.
                          Be sure when you split the system, that you use the port to the REAR for the front brakes, UNLESS it's marked otherwise.

                          Jim
                          "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                          We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                          Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                          As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                          their Memorials!

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X