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Vapor Lock 62 GT Hawk 289 V8 2bbl Stromberg

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
    As far as the heat riser goes what is the position for it to be fully open? Turned clockwise all the way or counter-clockwise? Mine has the half circle weight with the "nub" pointing in the center that either points up or down on full travel. It is free in between but binds up at either end so I need to fix it in the fully open position.
    I seem to remember answering this one for you on another post, but Clockwise pointing Forward is OPEN, the weight falls from upright to forward when installed correctly with the "TOP" marking facing UP.

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  • Warren Webb
    replied
    As far as the heat riser goes what is the position for it to be fully open? Turned clockwise all the way or counter-clockwise? Mine has the half circle weight with the "nub" pointing in the center that either points up or down on full travel. It is free in between but binds up at either end so I need to fix it in the fully open position.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by jim@studebaker-inc.com View Post
    Per irish, I removed the bottom bowl of the fuel pump. There was nothing but a ~2" rubber gasket and nothing but the pump's casting. The screw is only 5/8" long. I don't think there is room for a filter and I belive this might just be the wrong pump for the car with a pump not designed for an internal filter.

    Plate 03-04 in the chassis catelog shows bowl screw 0301-16-1 as pretty long for model 62V. Also filter 0301-19 could never fit into this pump. After reviewing the catelog I think I convinced myself this the wrong pump.

    So who knows how long this car has run with no fuel filter. This lends support to some posts to check out the carburator.

    Jim
    You may have one of these? It's an older Model Airtex with a wanna-be Filter.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	V-8 Fuel Pump Airtex.jpg
Views:	4
Size:	11.8 KB
ID:	1687821 Instead of what you need: Click image for larger version

Name:	Carter Fuel Pump V-8.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	74.6 KB
ID:	1687822 A real OEM Carter with Metal or Glass Filter Bowl.

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  • pinehurstbob
    replied
    Vapor lock is a problem that I worked on for 2 summers with 2 cars that I drive about 5000 miles in the "warm" months. Since you can not always find ethanol free fuel I made mine run on the 87 octane. If you have not used the search function to look for fixes, please do, most help full. Both my cars are 259 2 barrel stromburg, flightomatic Lark bodied cars 60 & 64. I tried all the things mentioned and every thing helped but nothing cured the problem completely until I took the mechanical pump off and went electric. Both cars were vapor locking within normal operating temperature range. I put the fuel return line back to the tank by drilling the filler neck in the trunk area and used a 90 degree fitting and steel fuel line to route returned fuel to the bottom of the tank. Now the carb has a fresh, continuous supply of cool fuel. I know its the fuel itself that is the problem as I have been driving the 64 since 99. Performed flawlessly, and even did some towing with it. When gas went to 10% ethanol my problems started. When you think about it, alcohol boils at a lower temp so used in a 50+ years old fuel system that was engineered to run on 3 to 5 lbs pressure and real leaded gasoline, its not surprising to me that it does not perform as well when its hot. If you can always run non ethanol fuel, then I would suggest that my "fix" is not likely necessary, just make sure every is up to original specs ie clean, right fuel pressure etc. Good luck with the problem and keep on cruising. Sounds like you have a nice ride!

    Bob Easton
    64 Daytona 60 Lark Convert

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  • Studebaker1962
    replied
    Per irish, I removed the bottom bowl of the fuel pump. There was nothing but a ~2" rubber gasket and nothing but the pump's casting. The screw is only 5/8" long. I don't think there is room for a filter and I belive this might just be the wrong pump for the car with a pump not designed for an internal filter.

    Plate 03-04 in the chassis catelog shows bowl screw 0301-16-1 as pretty long for model 62V. Also filter 0301-19 could never fit into this pump. After reviewing the catelog I think I convinced myself this the wrong pump.

    So who knows how long this car has run with no fuel filter. This lends support to some posts to check out the carburator.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Warren Webb
    replied
    I've been getting my 62 Champ road worthy & noticed the past couple days when having the engine run in a fast idle, the metal fuel line going from the pump to the carb gets warm. Not too hot to touch but plenty warm. I am thinking of some insulation around the pipe to help keep the fuel cooler. Even see if I can get a temp reading with the laser temp probe.

    Leave a comment:


  • skycar
    replied
    Hi Jim,
    I had vapour lock issues here in Oz, running 95 and 98 octane. It took me quite awhile to diagnose that that was the actual problem.
    After fitting a reco fuel pump, changed fuel filter and fatigued flexi supply line (from the tank to the hard line and flexi lines to pump etc.)
    These lines get very stif and can allow air to draw into the line adding to your problem.
    Also a carb reco kit, I still had the problem until I fitted a fuel pressure relief valve and a return line (rubber flexible type) to the filler pipe.

    We get similar hot days here, and the beast hasn't missed a beat since fitting this set up.
    It was relatively easy to fit, I made a bracket near the carb to mount the PRV.
    The theory is you have a constant supply of fresh fuel close to the carb and the unwanted fuel returned to the tank, not boiling away in the lines.
    I hope this is helpful, it will fix your problem.
    Regards from,
    Roger
    Australia

    Leave a comment:


  • irish
    replied
    I don't think you have vapor lock, with non-ethanol fuel I haven't experienced it in temps below 100 degrees. From the description of the car I bet you have a very dirty fuel system. It could be the carb (likely), the fuel pump, the tank, the fuel lines or all of the above. Also are you sure you don't have a fuel filter? If you have the original fuel pump you will not see the filter, as 'StudeRich' mentioned the bottom part of the fuel pump is a metal 'cup' with the filter inside, it's fooled many people not familiar with this set-up. Best of luck to you.

    Joe

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  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    Just because the fuel pump "looks" new, doesn't mean it is....or that it's working correctly and putting out enough pressure..!
    Check it's pressure or try another known good pump.
    The current pump on my Larks 259..."looks" clean and shiny....but it's being replaced tomorrow...because it only pushes out enough fuel to run the engine at higher rpm (above about 2000 rpm)..! The filter on my Larks engine is just a standard steel canister, one line in...one line out...nothing fancy.

    Another thing, the use of a 180 degree thermostat is NOT too hot. I use a 180 here in SoCal...which includes 100+ degree summer days without any hint of "vapor lock". The engine runs between 175+ to 190+ at any given time. Sure...it'll go up to 195 or so while sitting in the In-n-Out line while waiting for lunch on a summer day...but that's also...not too hot, because as soon as I start moving, it cools back to around 180 or so !

    Check and make sure the rubber line from the fuel tank to the hard line is in good shape and not seaping or may be kinked....or even hard which is also dangerous.
    Install a new, normal filter....leave nothing to..."I think it's ok, it looks new.." .

    Mike

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  • Andy R.
    replied
    If you haven't done so yet, give comprehensive "Things To Do After You've Bought A Studebaker" a read through:
    http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp

    Leave a comment:


  • Studebaker1962
    replied
    Red with black interior and a 4 speed. All the chrome is perfect. It is a completly rust free Oklohoma car with 97,000 miles and I found it online at a classic used car lot in Iowa. This car (except for a cheapo over spray) is vitually a perfect car. As I said it needs neglected maintenance items from a 52 year one owner. The list is very long of my tasks. She is on 4 jack stands now for 3 months to methodically go thru safety, all systems and drivability issues.

    Jim

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  • GThawkwind
    replied
    Where did you find a rust free hawk here!? Is the car white with a four speed?

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  • Studebaker1962
    replied
    A 180 thermostat was in when I bought the car and I replceced with a new 180. I've been told 3 times now a 160 is correct. Maybe the engine is just running too hot and perhaps explains the vapor lock coupled with a bad radiator.

    Off to parts store tomorrow.

    Thanks to All,

    Jim

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  • SN-60
    replied
    Originally posted by jim@studebaker-inc.com View Post
    No filter when I bought the car. All metal fuel pump with no bowl. I added an in-line filter in the flex hose from the hard pipe from the tank to the fuel pump.

    My question is if a return-line "side-tap" fuel filter will prevent vapor lock.

    Thanks,
    Jim
    Yes, it WILL help to prevent vapor lock (or fuel boiling under extremely hot conditions) You can replace the in line filter that You added ahead of the pump with one with an extra nipple on its side that can be used as a starting point for said fuel return line.

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  • Studebaker1962
    replied
    Radiator is bad with green crust and rust at the bottom, thus supporting the cooling system questionability. A new one is on order. Will thuroughly flush the block and continue to go thru the car's systems. Maybe parts of the block are much hotter then the gauge indicates due to sludge. Inch by inch......

    There are mud dobbers in all the fenders wells and cob webs in the drive shaft u-joints. Not a spec of rust underneath and the thickest bottom coat I have ever seen. Also zero dents dings or bondo. It is a car that is stuck in time. I the have sales reciept when purchased in 1962 and the badge on the glove box with the owners name. Very cool.

    StudeRich I agree the cooling system needs well needed attention.

    Thanks to all for your timely help.

    Jim

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