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Vapor Lock 62 GT Hawk 289 V8 2bbl Stromberg

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  • #16
    Hi Jim,
    I had vapour lock issues here in Oz, running 95 and 98 octane. It took me quite awhile to diagnose that that was the actual problem.
    After fitting a reco fuel pump, changed fuel filter and fatigued flexi supply line (from the tank to the hard line and flexi lines to pump etc.)
    These lines get very stif and can allow air to draw into the line adding to your problem.
    Also a carb reco kit, I still had the problem until I fitted a fuel pressure relief valve and a return line (rubber flexible type) to the filler pipe.

    We get similar hot days here, and the beast hasn't missed a beat since fitting this set up.
    It was relatively easy to fit, I made a bracket near the carb to mount the PRV.
    The theory is you have a constant supply of fresh fuel close to the carb and the unwanted fuel returned to the tank, not boiling away in the lines.
    I hope this is helpful, it will fix your problem.
    Regards from,
    Roger
    Australia

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    • #17
      I've been getting my 62 Champ road worthy & noticed the past couple days when having the engine run in a fast idle, the metal fuel line going from the pump to the carb gets warm. Not too hot to touch but plenty warm. I am thinking of some insulation around the pipe to help keep the fuel cooler. Even see if I can get a temp reading with the laser temp probe.
      59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
      60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
      61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
      62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
      62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
      62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
      63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
      63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
      64 Zip Van
      66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
      66 Cruiser V-8 auto

      Comment


      • #18
        Per irish, I removed the bottom bowl of the fuel pump. There was nothing but a ~2" rubber gasket and nothing but the pump's casting. The screw is only 5/8" long. I don't think there is room for a filter and I belive this might just be the wrong pump for the car with a pump not designed for an internal filter.

        Plate 03-04 in the chassis catelog shows bowl screw 0301-16-1 as pretty long for model 62V. Also filter 0301-19 could never fit into this pump. After reviewing the catelog I think I convinced myself this the wrong pump.

        So who knows how long this car has run with no fuel filter. This lends support to some posts to check out the carburator.

        Jim
        Studebaker1962

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        • #19
          Vapor lock is a problem that I worked on for 2 summers with 2 cars that I drive about 5000 miles in the "warm" months. Since you can not always find ethanol free fuel I made mine run on the 87 octane. If you have not used the search function to look for fixes, please do, most help full. Both my cars are 259 2 barrel stromburg, flightomatic Lark bodied cars 60 & 64. I tried all the things mentioned and every thing helped but nothing cured the problem completely until I took the mechanical pump off and went electric. Both cars were vapor locking within normal operating temperature range. I put the fuel return line back to the tank by drilling the filler neck in the trunk area and used a 90 degree fitting and steel fuel line to route returned fuel to the bottom of the tank. Now the carb has a fresh, continuous supply of cool fuel. I know its the fuel itself that is the problem as I have been driving the 64 since 99. Performed flawlessly, and even did some towing with it. When gas went to 10% ethanol my problems started. When you think about it, alcohol boils at a lower temp so used in a 50+ years old fuel system that was engineered to run on 3 to 5 lbs pressure and real leaded gasoline, its not surprising to me that it does not perform as well when its hot. If you can always run non ethanol fuel, then I would suggest that my "fix" is not likely necessary, just make sure every is up to original specs ie clean, right fuel pressure etc. Good luck with the problem and keep on cruising. Sounds like you have a nice ride!

          Bob Easton
          64 Daytona 60 Lark Convert
          Bob
          Welland Ontario
          60 Lark Convertible
          64 Daytona
          sigpic
          "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by jim@studebaker-inc.com View Post
            Per irish, I removed the bottom bowl of the fuel pump. There was nothing but a ~2" rubber gasket and nothing but the pump's casting. The screw is only 5/8" long. I don't think there is room for a filter and I belive this might just be the wrong pump for the car with a pump not designed for an internal filter.

            Plate 03-04 in the chassis catelog shows bowl screw 0301-16-1 as pretty long for model 62V. Also filter 0301-19 could never fit into this pump. After reviewing the catelog I think I convinced myself this the wrong pump.

            So who knows how long this car has run with no fuel filter. This lends support to some posts to check out the carburator.

            Jim
            You may have one of these? It's an older Model Airtex with a wanna-be Filter.
            Click image for larger version

Name:	V-8 Fuel Pump Airtex.jpg
Views:	4
Size:	11.8 KB
ID:	1687821 Instead of what you need: Click image for larger version

Name:	Carter Fuel Pump V-8.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	74.6 KB
ID:	1687822 A real OEM Carter with Metal or Glass Filter Bowl.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #21
              As far as the heat riser goes what is the position for it to be fully open? Turned clockwise all the way or counter-clockwise? Mine has the half circle weight with the "nub" pointing in the center that either points up or down on full travel. It is free in between but binds up at either end so I need to fix it in the fully open position.
              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
              64 Zip Van
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
              66 Cruiser V-8 auto

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                As far as the heat riser goes what is the position for it to be fully open? Turned clockwise all the way or counter-clockwise? Mine has the half circle weight with the "nub" pointing in the center that either points up or down on full travel. It is free in between but binds up at either end so I need to fix it in the fully open position.
                I seem to remember answering this one for you on another post, but Clockwise pointing Forward is OPEN, the weight falls from upright to forward when installed correctly with the "TOP" marking facing UP.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                Comment

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