Fuel System: Vapor Lock 62 GT Hawk 289 V8 2bbl Stromberg

[Studebaker1962]

Hi,

I am new to the forum. I just bought a one owner 1962 GT Hawk. Good and both Bad that it is a one owner car. Many maintenance items have gone un-touched. I bought from Iowa (cold) Shipped to my home in Florida (hot)

It runs to an open thermostat (new 180 stat) temp then sputters and dies. I re-routed and changed the metal 5/16" fuel line laying against the exhaust manifold to a 5/16 steel braided flex up over and around the power steering pump. A mechanical fuel pump that looks fairly new. A new Mallory dist. and coil, new wires and plugs. Adjusted valves. Use 92 octane ethanol free gas.

Runs and idles flawlessly until it sputters and dies-out. I have read discussion of blocking the exhaust cross-over. Florida is warm so poor choke performance may not be an issue. I don't really want to do this

Here is a link to a fuel filter with a return port. Comments on this? Will it solve my problem? Does the side return tap need to go all the way back to the tank? This is my preferred solution should your comments indicate this will work.

Should this be the advised solution, how do I add a return tap to the tank?

http://www.jondon.com/filter-fuel-5-16-with-return.html

Comments Appreciated!!

[BobPalma]

Hi, Jim;

Welcome aboard. A one-owner Haswk is becoming more rare by the day, so you've done well to have acquired one.

That fuel filter will do what you want it to. Yes, the "return" gas line needs to go all the way back to the tank. Some people have had a radiator shop solder a bung to the fuel filler pipe for the return.

You could use a 160 thermostat down there as well...but do run a thermostat. Studebaker V8s need the back-pressure created by a thermostat to force coolant to the back of the block.

BTW, you should probably have the cooling system thoroughly flushed out, which includes removing and opening the two block drains at the rearmost lower sides of the block. They probably haven't been out in decades and will take some judicious poking around, once removed, to open the cooling passages behind the plugs. BP

[SN-60]

If there is an in line fuel filter on Your Hawk now, it could be restricted and just need replacing.

[StudeRich]

You need to check the fuel Pump to see which type you have. The Original, OEM Carter had a Glass Filter bowl or Tin Cup on the bottom with a stone or Paper Filter element inside, if it does, it could be clogged.

The Replacement Filter with a return, needs to be checked for a restrictor port to reduce flow to a very small amount like the .040 or .050 ported Line Fitting used on some Jet Thrust Avanti Engines in the "T" at the output of their Fuel Pumps.

The Car should NOT heat up and die without a return line especially this time of year, if the Fuel and Cooling Systems are up to speed.

After checking the flow out of the Drain Plugs as Bob P. mentioned, if that proves to be just FULL of sand, rust and gunk, then you need to remove all 6 core Plugs to be replaced with New, and thoroughly flush and scrape out ALL of the Gunk, as it sounds like this Car may have NEVER been opened up.

[Studebaker1962]

No filter when I bought the car. All metal fuel pump with no bowl. I added an in-line filter in the flex hose from the hard pipe from the tank to the fuel pump.

My question is if a return-line "side-tap" fuel filter will prevent vapor lock.

Thanks,
Jim

[swvalcon]

I drove my 64 hwak for a few hundred miles before I pulled it apart to restore and it was hot in the late summer early fall here in Mn. It never got much over 180 and never vapor locked on me so I think you have some other issues besides vapor lock I would start at the tank and clean and check everything all the way to the carb. A new fuel pump would be money well spent. You can always save the old one for a spare.

[StudeRich]

Yes, on 80 Degree Plus days in places like Arizona, Texas, Inland So. Calif. and Nevada that get that hot, it has helped but usually it is NOT needed and there is another cause, like we all said, Cooling System including Block AND Radiator.

What about your Carb. does it have the proper Base Gasket?
Is the Heat Riser Valve pointing straight FORWARD (Open) when warm and also "Free"?

[Studebaker1962]

Radiator is bad with green crust and rust at the bottom, thus supporting the cooling system questionability. A new one is on order. Will thuroughly flush the block and continue to go thru the car's systems. Maybe parts of the block are much hotter then the gauge indicates due to sludge. Inch by inch......

There are mud dobbers in all the fenders wells and cob webs in the drive shaft u-joints. Not a spec of rust underneath and the thickest bottom coat I have ever seen. Also zero dents dings or bondo. It is a car that is stuck in time. I the have sales reciept when purchased in 1962 and the badge on the glove box with the owners name. Very cool.

StudeRich I agree the cooling system needs well needed attention.

Thanks to all for your timely help.

Jim

[SN-60]

No filter when I bought the car. All metal fuel pump with no bowl. I added an in-line filter in the flex hose from the hard pipe from the tank to the fuel pump.

My question is if a return-line "side-tap" fuel filter will prevent vapor lock.

Thanks,
Jim

Yes, it WILL help to prevent vapor lock (or fuel boiling under extremely hot conditions) You can replace the in line filter that You added ahead of the pump with one with an extra nipple on its side that can be used as a starting point for said fuel return line.

[Studebaker1962]

A 180 thermostat was in when I bought the car and I replceced with a new 180. I've been told 3 times now a 160 is correct. Maybe the engine is just running too hot and perhaps explains the vapor lock coupled with a bad radiator.

Off to parts store tomorrow.

Thanks to All,

Jim

[GThawkwind]

Where did you find a rust free hawk here!? Is the car white with a four speed?

[Studebaker1962]

Red with black interior and a 4 speed. All the chrome is perfect. It is a completly rust free Oklohoma car with 97,000 miles and I found it online at a classic used car lot in Iowa. This car (except for a cheapo over spray) is vitually a perfect car. As I said it needs neglected maintenance items from a 52 year one owner. The list is very long of my tasks. She is on 4 jack stands now for 3 months to methodically go thru safety, all systems and drivability issues.

Jim

[Andy R.]

If you haven't done so yet, give comprehensive "Things To Do After You've Bought A Studebaker" a read through:
http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp

[Mike Van Veghten]

Just because the fuel pump "looks" new, doesn't mean it is....or that it's working correctly and putting out enough pressure..!
Check it's pressure or try another known good pump.
The current pump on my Larks 259..."looks" clean and shiny....but it's being replaced tomorrow...because it only pushes out enough fuel to run the engine at higher rpm (above about 2000 rpm)..! The filter on my Larks engine is just a standard steel canister, one line in...one line out...nothing fancy.

Another thing, the use of a 180 degree thermostat is NOT too hot. I use a 180 here in SoCal...which includes 100+ degree summer days without any hint of "vapor lock". The engine runs between 175+ to 190+ at any given time. Sure...it'll go up to 195 or so while sitting in the In-n-Out line while waiting for lunch on a summer day...but that's also...not too hot, because as soon as I start moving, it cools back to around 180 or so !

Check and make sure the rubber line from the fuel tank to the hard line is in good shape and not seaping or may be kinked....or even hard which is also dangerous.
Install a new, normal filter....leave nothing to..."I think it's ok, it looks new.." .

Mike

[irish]

I don't think you have vapor lock, with non-ethanol fuel I haven't experienced it in temps below 100 degrees. From the description of the car I bet you have a very dirty fuel system. It could be the carb (likely), the fuel pump, the tank, the fuel lines or all of the above. Also are you sure you don't have a fuel filter? If you have the original fuel pump you will not see the filter, as 'StudeRich' mentioned the bottom part of the fuel pump is a metal 'cup' with the filter inside, it's fooled many people not familiar with this set-up. Best of luck to you.

Joe