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Any way to change the source?

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  • Electrical: Any way to change the source?

    I am installing a Delco distributor with the Pertronix module into the 62 Champ & wanted to use the (red) feed wire that normally goes to the overdrive switch on the throttle linkage. On testing it though I found there is current to that wire when the ignition switch is in the "ACC" (accessory) position. I cannot see in the wiring diagram where the source is, could a different wire on the ignition switch be moved so this wire only gets current when the ignition is in the "run" position?

    As a side note in speaking with one of the advisors at Pertronix a couple of things came up. First, if using one of their coils a full 12 volt feed is recommended. Second, the distributor "lead wire" that grounds the breaker plate to the body must be intact. I had to replace it on mine before I put it in. It was broken off at the breaker plate. I replaced it with an Echlin LW 42 from NAPA. One word about this wire, it has a closed end connector on each end & one end the hole is too small for the screw that normally holds the points. Based on illustrations from different sources this is the way they come such as the BWD DL 77 & the Standard Motor Products DDL 21. I thought I would mention this because of various posts telling how the Pertronix units failed for them. The break in this wire may or may not have been the reason.
    Last edited by Warren Webb; 02-12-2014, 08:56 AM.
    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
    64 Zip Van
    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
    66 Cruiser V-8 auto

  • #2
    Hi Warren, looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that the overdrive relay lead junctions with the wire from the accessory pin on the ignition switch somewhere in the wiring harness. I would just run a wire from the ignition side of the starter solenoid to get switched power and disconnect the stock lead to the relay.

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    • #3
      Good idea Brian but on my truck that terminal already has the voltage reduced. It barely lights the test light so I guess running another wire from the ignition switch is my only alternative. I was trying to avoid that, the ignition switch is like a hornets nest when it comes to all the wires!
      59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
      60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
      61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
      62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
      62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
      62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
      63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
      63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
      64 Zip Van
      66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
      66 Cruiser V-8 auto

      Comment


      • #4
        As long as your under there, you might consider adding a small terminal board and clean things up a bit.

        Comment


        • #5
          All the wiring harness companies, as well as Vintage Air, recommend adding a remote 12v terminal and/or a junction block on old cars/trucks. The ignition switch just gets overloaded.

          jack vines
          PackardV8

          Comment


          • #6
            V-8 Champs used that infamous pink resister wire from ign. switch to coil +. Yes, you'll need to run a new non-resister wire.

            Comment


            • #7
              Read comments about PeTronix failing if ignition left on and engine not running. So on the Speedster I added a relay on the PeTronix red lead triggered by the electric fuel pump/impact fail circuit being live.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
                All the wiring harness companies, as well as Vintage Air, recommend adding a remote 12v terminal and/or a junction block on old cars/trucks. The ignition switch just gets overloaded.

                jack vines
                By that, do you mean a relay that's triggered off the ignition switch? And then fused/wired directly to the battery?

                Would you bypass the ammeter then?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by mmagic View Post
                  Read comments about PeTronix failing if ignition left on and engine not running. So on the Speedster I added a relay on the PeTronix red lead triggered by the electric fuel pump/impact fail circuit being live.
                  That sounds like a smart idea. For those without an electric fuel pump, why not a simple Bosch cube relay, controlled by the pink resistor wire, which should supply ample juice for the relay coil, used to control feed to the Pertronix off the hot side of the starter solenoid? Saves all that crawling upside-down under the dash.
                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I too like the idea of a relay, but for now I just wired it up to the ignition side of the switch. All this "digging into everything" has uncovered one mess after another. I found today as I changed the ignition from an aftermarket to an original Studebaker switch that whoever replaced the switch prior had everything including the ignition, on the accessory terminal. All kinds of wires that were for unknown purposes were left without capping them off.

                    Changing from the Prestolite distributor to the Delco w/ Pertonix has made a world of difference, especially in starting. Before I had to crank for 2-3 seconds but now it starts almost immediately. Today felt good, especially with the weather hitting 90. Hope all back east stay safe. I remember how it was for me.
                    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                    64 Zip Van
                    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                    66 Cruiser V-8 auto

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pbrown View Post
                      By that, do you mean a relay that's triggered off the ignition switch? And then fused/wired directly to the battery?

                      Would you bypass the ammeter then?
                      An earlier post detailed a 2 relay impact safety system for the fuel pump. It relies on a Ford impact switch and a double pole single throw oil pressure swithch. I'm using the + #87 pole from the second relay on this to also trigger a cube relay (#86 in) that completes a circuit between the #30 and #87 poles of the red PenTronix wire.
                      Last edited by mmagic; 02-15-2014, 06:15 AM.

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