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1955 Champion Engine Rebuild

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  • Engine: 1955 Champion Engine Rebuild

    Hey guys,

    I have recently decided to do all work on the engine of my 1955 Stude Champion, after being quoted $10k for a full engine rebuild. I have the resources to do a proper job, so I'm going to go ahead and do it.

    I was wondering if you guys could help me out with any and all information regarding the 185 engine in my Stude. I'd like to get diagrams, specs, etc. I will be using this thread to document all the work I do on it for later reference, but I first have to gather all information I can.

    The only website I have found with information is the following, but I'd like to have a bank of resources where I can source parts from as well as possibly get books with the engine diagrams.

    http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/460.cfm

    This is my build page:
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...w-forum-member


    Thank you all in advance,


    Alejo

  • #2
    Alejandro! If you are a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club you already receive the TURNING WHEELS monthly magazine and know your shop manual with all tech specs and parts catalogs are available, as well as all the parts and technical assistance you could ever need.
    If the club has fallen short of your needs, please let us know where!
    If you have not joined and do not receive TURNING WHEELS, and have not made contact with Studebaker owners in your local Chapter, I can understand your needs. We've all been there.
    Let us know how we can help. Here's a great article from the SDC home page tech tips.

    http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp


    Have you looked here? http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/index.asp


    Last edited by rockne10; 02-07-2014, 06:08 PM.
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10,
    '51 Commander Starlight,
    '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
    '56 Sky Hawk

    Comment


    • #3
      I think you might need to look for an HONEST Shop that actually KNOWS older Cars.
      It sounds like this guy is quoting a $4-$5,000.00 Job at Double, meaning he does not want to do it.
      There should be Local recommendations from your Local SDC Chapter, once you connect with them.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        I think you might need to look for an HONEST Shop that actually KNOWS older Cars.
        It sounds like this guy is quoting a $4-$5,000.00 Job at Double, meaning he does not want to do it.
        There should be Local recommendations from your Local SDC Chapter, once you connect with them.
        The shop is a great place, thats where I had everything else done.. but the engine quote is ridiculous.. I still want to do this myself, I did it on a BMW E30 recently and it went ok. I'm just looking for all the information I can gather so I can do this adequately... I am looking into my local SDC chapter right now.

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        • #5
          So I will definitely be doing all the work myself, just wondering if there are any how-to threads on here for piston ring install as well as DIY engine rebuild threads. Thank you

          Alejandro


          EDIT:

          Found this for future reference:
          http://www.raylinrestoration.com/
          Last edited by Alejo; 02-14-2014, 08:30 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Have you got the shop manual and the chassis parts manual? Lots of information in them and it is the correct information.
            RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

            17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
            10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
            10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
            4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
            5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
            56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
            60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
              Have you got the shop manual and the chassis parts manual? Lots of information in them and it is the correct information.
              I second that. The Studebaker engineers put a lot of effort into getting the shop manual right. Lots of things apply to all engines and some are Studebaker specific. You need the original manual to be sure you don't miss something important.
              "In the heart of Arkansas."
              Searcy, Arkansas
              1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
              1952 2R pickup

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              • #8
                Yes, follow the Shop Manual!

                One thing to be sure to check and correct as necessary is the wear in the valve lifter bores.

                You may have to have the bare block machined for slightly oversize lifters, because they wear more than you'd expect.

                Uncorrected, you could get the engine all back together with tight bearings at the proper clearances and still have unsatisfactory oil pressure because the lifters are loose in the bores and you had not checked into it. BP
                We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

                Ayn Rand:
                "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

                G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by BobPalma View Post
                  Yes, follow the Shop Manual!

                  One thing to be sure to check and correct as necessary is the wear in the valve lifter bores.

                  You may have to have the bare block machined for slightly oversize lifters, because they wear more than you'd expect.

                  Uncorrected, you could get the engine all back together with tight bearings at the proper clearances and still have unsatisfactory oil pressure because the lifters are loose in the bores and you had not checked into it. BP
                  I will double check them, and have the block machined if needed. Thanks for the heads up!

                  Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                  Have you got the shop manual and the chassis parts manual? Lots of information in them and it is the correct information.
                  Where can I get the shop manual?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Studebaker International has shop and parts manuals or you can sometimes find them on Ebay and similar sources.
                    "In the heart of Arkansas."
                    Searcy, Arkansas
                    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                    1952 2R pickup

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Awesome, thank you.. I'll be ordering it today.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        ....don't bore anything, anywhere until you have the correct lifters, bearings, pistons, etc. IN HAND !

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