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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: Engine/trans. swap

    Mornin' all: I have a 61 Hawk 289/auto. trans. Engine is non op. I just recently picked up a 63 259/3spd. std. {T86E] .Complete to tail shaft ,out of a Lark. EXCEPT for univ.flange (yoke to d/shaft univ.) & clutch linkage from frame mount to disconnect point on throwout bearing shaft(tapered pin/collar). #1. Want to know if auto.trans. flange/yoke is interchangable (same fit/part)?? Looked for clutch linkg. parts in S.I. catalog, only shows to 1958. #2. Are linkage parts same for 61 as latest earlier model listed?? Would need complete link. parts from frame mount to t/shaft disconnect point. #3 Is auto. trans. support mount(crossmember) same for std.trans?? THANKS for any info. Just trying to get the" BLUBRD" to fly again!! SOON ! Thanks, ARTHUR

  • #2
    This is a lot of work. The 259 will certainly physically replace the 289; no problem there. If I had your car, and your spare engine, I would take the easy way out, and mate up the 259 to the Flightomatic already in the car. Even this job is a bear, because to do it right, you have to remove the oil pan and rear main bearing cap from both engines, and swap the shorter crankshaft flange bolts from the 289 into the 259, and vice versa. (somebody, somewhere, will want a core 289 with long crank flange bolts). Then you will have to dial-indicate the automatic bellhousing to be concentric with the crankshaft, and set new dowel pins. But, other than gasket sets and dowel pins, which are available, you HAVE all the parts you need.

    Frankly, I wouldn't bother with swapping in a straight 3-speed into a Hawk, unless all you ever plan to drive it is around town to local shows, etc. It won't get much better gas mileage than it would with the Flightomatic, and you will have to install a steering column with shifter mechanism, a clutch pedal and shaft, a clutch cross-shaft and hanger, and linkage rod, and find the shift linkage rods, and a different drive shaft. Now if you had a 3-speed with overdrive, that might all be worth it, since overdrive would make it into a really great highway car. And '61 Hawks were also available with 4-speed on the floor.

    And I wouldn't attempt to do an auto-to-manual swap into a Hawk unless I had access to a parts car of similar year. '58 through '60 should work. '61 and '62 should work IF they were 3-speed cars (with or without OD), Clutch linkage parts for the 4-speed cars are different! There are many small parts, and it's always a lot easier to do the swap if you see how they were installed in the parts car. Take plenty of pictures as you "rob" the parts car.

    Why is the 289 inoperative? Maybe fixing it is the best solution?
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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    • #3
      Hi Gord, The 289 is blown.Now has site window in L/F top of oil pan NO GLASS!! WouLd love to have 3spd/od or 4spd.More fun to run through the gears "with authority" once in a while!! Have to take what's available.Been looking/waiting to get something that would run so I could at least get rolling while 289 is in hosp.I also picked up a 62GT 289/auto w/TT rear:whole car for parts--eng. is stuck.Tried to free up but no luck. Will save d/train,use some trinkets for BLUBRD,part out rest& scrap the rust.Got same advice to stay with auto.trans. from pro mech./best friend,I'm retired TT driver. Looks like 6 of 1 half dozen the other with tranny/eng. swaps.TTrear swap is looking better too.No rush for that though,need to get rolling first. Thanks for comeback & info. Arthur

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      • #4
        That spare 289 gives you a great chance to build it how you want before having to disassemble the Car. I would soak those Pistons with Acetone and ATF until they free up or, beat them to death to get them out, rebore it, replace the pistons, do the complete rebuild and then you are good for your lifetime or it's.

        Is the '62 GT Hawk 289 a Late '62 with the desirable Full Flow Filter Block? Even a better plan if it is.
        Temporary fixes are always a loser in the long run, more work sometimes almost as much money.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          Well, I stand by what I said. The simplest, least-effort patch for you is to put the short crank flange bolts in the 259, center the bellhousing, and drop it in with the Flightomatic. Still a fair bit of work, but your out-of-pocket for parts will be as low as it can be. I'd say, do that, and enjoy the use of the car. Then, take you broken 289, and salvage what parts you can from it (especially the crank, if it isn't destroyed) and the parts 289, and build a good 289 from the best pieces. Then get or make an adaptor kit, and rig it up with a modern 5-speed transmission, and maybe hydraulic throwout bearing, too. Then swap the whole combo into your Hawk, and work out a clutch master cylinder setup, and new driveshaft. Then you can have your cake, and eat it, too. Shift through the gears with authority, and cruise the Interstates with those nice, fuel-sipping overdrive gear ratios.

          And the 2 options really don't conflict with each other. And in the meantime, you might find a Hawk parts car with complete 3-speed OD setup in it. You can add a floor shift to the stock 3-speed, either old-school, using a T-90 top shifter, or with an accessory floor shifter. The latter can be a tight fit with the overdrive components, but it can be done.
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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          • #6
            Hello "Mr. Rich": The 62GT ("RED-DEVIL")is early,has can. type filter. I mixed kero&mystery oil,filled cyls,poured some down intake&around push rod/valve springs.Tried to turn a little for several weeks to no avail.Yeah full teardown needed.I just had to try to "CHEAT"so I could" test fly" the "BLUBRD "a little.I am so anxious to get the 61 "ON THE ROAD AGAIN". We haven't started to 'tear down' either eng. as yet, due to limited garage space&time, 2eng.parts scattered about &&&&&& $$$$$$.I got the 62Hawk complete, mainly hoping the eng. was useable w/out a ton of work& $$$ to get going at least.It also has TTrear besides useable parts for my 61.Will try to use & save what I need,part out the rest to recoup a few$$ & can the rust. So I now have 2 comp. cars& the 63-259eng.&tranny.Sounds like I'm "Mr.BUCKS",but not the case!Thought about using" StudePoor" for my handle.I'm recently retired Truck driver-45yrs.( 2WHLRS to 22/auto.trans. to18 spd.)mainly Tr/Trlr in NewEng. /some Xcntry-VT to CA.Anyway,not a pro.mech. myself ,so must rely on knowledge/advice/help of best friend that's been in mech./bdy wrk trade many yrs. YES,"The ONLY way to Fix it RIGHT is the Hard Way ,all engs. are basically same just look different".Quote from another great old friend& pro.mech. He has passed, but I never forgot things he said.He had a lot of what I call Al'isms! As you may have noticed, I'm not a computer pro either!!! "Jack of many trades Master of none". Enjoying all SDC forums for tech. info./advice and such. Appreciate your input. THANKS, Arthur ( Hmm --StudePoor???)
            Last edited by arthurc1946; 02-05-2014, 09:29 AM.

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            • #7
              Instead of changing the crank bolts, you can put nuts on them and grind them shorter. Removing the nuts will clean the ends of the threads.

              Much easier than removing the oil pan and the main bearing cap.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                Instead of changing the crank bolts, you can put nuts on them and grind them shorter. Removing the nuts will clean the ends of the threads.

                Much easier than removing the oil pan and the main bearing cap.
                CAUTION! If you elect to do it this way be aware of the fact that the longer bolts for the flywheel are not threaded as far down as the shorter bolts for the torque converter plate. Years ago, a friend of mine was replacing cracked torque converter plate about once a year. I finally insisted on looking at it when it was torn down, and found the engine had been changed and they just cut off the longer bolts. However...when the nuts were tightened...they had just run out of thread and were not tight against the plate, causing it to fail prematurely. In this case, we just used flat washers to allow the plate to be truly tightened, and his plate never failed again.
                Personally, I feel that is a minor job to change the bolts as needed to do the job correctly.

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                • #9
                  Good point. Thanks for the information.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Gord: Yeah, I just had to make up my mind which way to gitt'er done n' go! I'm "THE GREAT PROCRASTINATOR"can you see. ("Be sure your right ,then go ahead" )DAVEY CROCKETT, I believe. Was going to go with floor shift,uni. model works for me,either trans. Had to go that way before w/55 Champ. cpe. 6cyl. 3spd/od ,had broken s/lever collar. Wasn't much to modify as I recall.Was only 14-15(1960?) then.No lic.,small assort.of tools& very little $$$$. Even did ring&valve job too.Neighbor loaned me specialty tools &MOTORS MANUAL.Was adviser too.(retired Navy motor/mach.) Only had to get valves ground outside.Lapping v/seats by hand not fun.It ran good when done.Never got on the road with it.Got stolen from storage.Anyhow,have to keep major change$$ to min.Money tree in the doaahyaahd can't keep pace!!READ reply to StudeRICH.Will try to salvage the 2 289's.Don't know how much damage to 61block yet,wanted to go that way for matching#'s, have CA title & P.O.#from SNM . 62 eng. locked hard.Might end up mix&match later or have 2 salt water mooring blocks??? APPRECIATE YOUR THOUGHTS & IDEAS. THANKS, ARTHUR

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                    • #11
                      Thanks All: Will save all info. obtained for reference. Now that's a novel way to "cheat"!! ARTHUR
                      Last edited by arthurc1946; 02-05-2014, 01:56 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Definitely leave it an automatic.

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                        • #13
                          Looks like I been tipped in 'at dii reckshun by abunch AHYUH ! She ain't gonna be dun fer them eire fancy shows or muzeeumz ,nope, jus for my plezure n fun.Goin ta try ta git her preezenable firse. Adon't think shees lookin too bad rite now. Mite take'er to a cruze nite now an agin for a ice kreme or a sanwich, mebbee a local dissplaay AYUH. Right now shees restin ina nice dry barn wit a horse to keeper cumpnee.Yessuh ats a truth! Ifn I had all the makins n time she'd be standerd for shuah.Problee hafta sell sum livestok ta buy the paahts. OK I lost it . Just tired & happy I found an eng. for the BLUBRD, that will run .

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