Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

no overdrive

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Transmission: no overdrive

    I lost my overdrive on my 57 six cly. It was blowing fuses, Have replaced the solenoid with a new on from SI. Still no overdrive, do you think it would be the governor? Waiting on SI to let me know if they have any.
    Evan Severson

  • #2
    The governor can keep the overdrive from engaging, but will not blow fuses.

    Time to get the shop manual and follow the troubleshooting procedures, rather than shooting from the hip. Lots of folks can give lots of advice, but nothing will replace hands on testing and knowledge of how the system works.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

    Comment


    • #3
      As Roy said a Trouble shooting session is need to find the fault, otherwise we are merely GUESSING.

      However with a "short" blowing a Fuse, the first thing I would look at would be the Kickdown Switch and it's wiring, ALL of the O.D. Wiring for frayed, bare and poorly connected wires.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Been checking wiring looking for frayed etc. Looking in the flow chart in service manual leads me to Governor .
        Evan Severson

        Comment


        • #5
          If it is blowing fuses as soon as the key is turned on, then you can unhook one wire at a time until the fuse does not blow - that helps narrow it down.

          Comment


          • #6
            Correct diagnosis can save the cost of needless parts. Poor grounds, or in this case, unintended grounds are the cheapest fixes.
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by 57studesilverhawk View Post
              Been checking wiring looking for frayed etc. Looking in the flow chart in service manual leads me to Governor .
              Well...of course...it's the governor that is the appropriate ground for the circuit. When the minimum speed for engaging the overdrive is reached, the governor is the switch that grounds the circuit. Your problem is that somewhere else in the wiring, there is an inappropriate ground (short) that is causing the problem. None of my overdrive units are as late a model as yours, so my input could be flawed. However, if you have the relay switch mounted on the firewall (as mine do) you need to check that as well as the kickdown switch as already mentioned. Since the governor is the final and appropriate ground point...I can think of no malfunction that the governor could cause a fuse to blow.
              John Clary
              Greer, SC

              SDC member since 1975

              Comment


              • #8
                The governor initiates a ground. The Lock out switch is next up the circuit and is normally closed unless OD is manually locked out. Next up the line in the circuit is the kick-down switch that is also normally closed. None of these should alone should be capable of blowing a fuse. As you move to the relay positive current becomes part of the system and a short here or beyond could blow a fuse.

                The first place I would start is to disconnect the wire at the relay that goes to the solenoid... no blown fuse and you've cleared the relay or wiring to the relay as the problem and isolated it to the solenoid or beyond.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You could also say WHEN the fuse blows - as soon as you turn on the key, or when the overdrive engages, or...?
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                  17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                  56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                  60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It has been blowing when you slow down to below 27 mph. I tried a trick of, at 60 mph throw in clutch to floor change gears, but coast to 10 -15 mph, turn or what ever and gear up, then after 30mph ease up on gas , and into over drive. This I did many times and no problem.
                    Evan Severson

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Since Dover is getting closer I have to find the problem, 4 day drive to be at the ANNUAL SDC MEET.
                      Evan Severson

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Will it down shift out of OD when the accelerator is floored, or does it blow the fuse then as well?

                        Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
                        53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                        57 SH (project)
                        60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The fact that the OD engages properly and then disengages at 27 pretty well proves the governor is OK. As the governor releases it causes the relay to disengage which causes the solenoid to release. This is assuming you still have the original system. Later setups discontinued the use of the relay. Usually the fuse blows when the solenoid engages due to the current surge.

                          Make sure the kickdown switch operates freely. This is spring loaded and should move in and out freely. If it's hung up a little WD40 might free it up.

                          The owners manual calls for a 15 AGC fuse. I believe later systems used a 14 SFE (slow blow) fuse. You might try one of these. If all else fails try the shop manual trouble shooting procedure. It will guide you thru the steps necessary to test each component.
                          American iron, real old school
                          With two tone paint, it sure is cool

                          Its got 8 cylinders and uses them all
                          With an overdrive that just won't stall

                          With a 4 barrel carb and dual exhausts
                          With 4.23 gears it can really get lost

                          Its got safety belts and I ain't scared
                          The brakes are good and the tires are fair.

                          Tried to sell her, but got no taker
                          I"ll just keep driving my Studebaker

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yes it does seem to, it is on the hoist at present, and in the process of changing the wire harness for kick down - solenoid- governor.
                            Evan Severson

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well we do seem to have the problem fixed, the new wiring went in , just in case, a new relay on the firewall, a new 15 amp fuse block new style, Then found out the BRAND NEW Solenoid was also defective, so I have it running with the old original back in and on the road test all worked well. Up, down, kick down, all as it should do. But I do want to have another Solenoid to have as a spare. Thanks for the comments and help, see you in Dover if all keeps working.
                              Evan Severson

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X