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rotella engine oil

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  • rotella engine oil

    I recall a post regarding Shell's oil used in avanti's.
    Was it the 5w40 synthetic.It seems the Rotella brand is
    more suited for diesel engines?

  • #2
    The Rotella I use in my Studebaker IS for diesel engines. It's best suited for older engines. There's a good discussion here:

    http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com...hTerms=rotella

    quote:Originally posted by imitiday

    I recall a post regarding Shell's oil used in avanti's.
    Was it the 5w40 synthetic.It seems the Rotella brand is
    more suited for diesel engines?
    ________________________
    Mark Anderson
    1965 Cruiser
    http://home.alltel.net/anderm

    Comment


    • #3
      I've put the 15/40 wieght Rotella in my '62 hawk and in my 1966 Cruiser. I don't recall it being rated for diesels, but it might be.

      I read a number of threads about oil and heard enough good things about the Shell Rotella I decided to try it. I've also read good things about it in air-cooled VW engines, so I'll probably use it in my 73 bug, too.

      Yeah, I admit it. I had to jump the Studebaker ship for the winter because I didn't want snow and stuff coming through the few holes I have in the floor of my '66. The Beetle is nice and rust free (so far). although I'd better get the heating ductwork hooked up soon!
      "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

      Comment


      • #4
        Shell's Rotella brand oils are formulated for Diesels it has been about 10 - 15 years since automotive oils could be used in diesels for warrenty purposes. However diesel engines oils can still be used in automtive applications. The only caution is diesel engine oils contain a higher ash level then the automotive oils do and this can cause in severe applications coking of valves and piston/ring areas. I have both a Stude 289 and a Stude with a 283 and use a Synt 10w30 with a Hydrotreated base stock, such as Chevron - Pennzoil - Petro-Canada. In my mind this is the best application for these vintage engines and high temp summer driving .

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        • #5
          Scott, I'm not anexpert but if you are concerned wth snow then I would have to believe that the climate you live in would be better suited, in the winter, to a lower viscosity oil than would be provided by the 15W 40.

          47 M5, Kentucky

          Comment


          • #6
            I like the Rotella because a) it's a good viscosity for older engines and b) it contains both anti-wear additives and very high levels of detergents, therefore it will protect the engine better than a gasoline-engine-only oil, and it will also clean out all the old sludge inside the engine. It really works; I've run it in two old Stude engines that had a decent amount of sludge buildup and after a couple changes you could see the difference under the valve covers, valley pan, etc.

            I probably wouldn't use the synthetic unless it was in a freshly rebuilt or re-gasketed engine; Studes tend to leak enough that it might not be cost effective. I do run either Rotella or Delo synthetic in the Porsche and probably will switch to it in the '55 after it is broken in.

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

            Comment


            • #7
              Could be, 4Austin. I read reports from some people suggesting what you're saying, and others that don't. I thought I read that even in my climate 15/40 should be OK all year. I guess I could try it and see for myself, though. It seems every person has at least 2 or 3 opinions about which oil is best!
              "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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              • #8
                N8N makes sense, what viscosities do you run.

                47 M5, Kentucky

                Comment


                • #9
                  Scott the only reason I mention the viscosity/temp issue is that if you are not heated it could take a good while for the oil to reach the valve lifters and other extremities and small orifices. I have actually read that in extremes lubrication times may exceed 10 minutes. Sounds unbelievable but sources were reliable. I will also use Rotella for reasons stated by N8N. But I'll be cautious regarding viscosity. Noria.com has information on selection of engine oils.

                  47 M5, Kentucky

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I read somewhere recently (Stude NG?) that Shell has reduced several of the elements/additives in the Rotella oil that are key for reducing wear in older cars.

                    Does anyone have more details on this?

                    Paul

                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html
                    Paul
                    Winston-Salem, NC
                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      In central Pa we've had temps below zero for weeks at a time and snow accumulations up to 124 inches. I've run nothing but Rotella in all my vehicles for years.

                      Shell is reformulating Dieselall (Rotella 15-40) to satisfy the needs of the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel engine and exhaust systems required after January 1, 2007. It will be a little more expensive but is compatible with all older vehicles. The reverse is not true. ULSD engines after January should not use prior formulations.

                      A small portion of my job includes managing a fleet of 24 Class 6 diesels.

                      I have all that information at work, with the details unmemorized, as I sit at home, finishing my second barley-pop and starting a week off work to advance the restoration of my 53 Coupe.

                      I plan on sticking with Rotella in my fleet and in my Studebakers.


                      Brad Johnson
                      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                      33 Rockne 10
                      51 Commander Starlight
                      53 Commander Starlight

                      previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
                      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by N8N

                        I like the Rotella because a) it's a good viscosity for older engines and b) it contains both anti-wear additives and very high levels of detergents, therefore it will protect the engine better than a gasoline-engine-only oil, and it will also clean out all the old sludge inside the engine. It really works; I've run it in two old Stude engines that had a decent amount of sludge buildup and after a couple changes you could see the difference under the valve covers, valley pan, etc.

                        I probably wouldn't use the synthetic unless it was in a freshly rebuilt or re-gasketed engine; Studes tend to leak enough that it might not be cost effective. I do run either Rotella or Delo synthetic in the Porsche and probably will switch to it in the '55 after it is broken in.

                        nate

                        --
                        55 Commander Starlight
                        http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The old problems with seal leaks has been long addressed by the oil companies they use Esters as a seal swell. I still believe that an automotive oil is better for automotive engines, Diesel enginge oils have additives not needed for gas applications. Synthetics can be used for break in without a problem, the old way of thinking that you can not break in an engine on synthics is false and put out by the Power-up and Amzoil people to promote false product quality. s for the viscosity if you are useing exsessive amounts of oil with a quailty 10w30 you are in need of an engine refresher, oils should not be used to mask mechanical problems.






                          quote:Originally posted by N8N

                          I like the Rotella because a) it's a good viscosity for older engines and b) it contains both anti-wear additives and very high levels of detergents, therefore it will protect the engine better than a gasoline-engine-only oil, and it will also clean out all the old sludge inside the engine. It really works; I've run it in two old Stude engines that had a decent amount of sludge buildup and after a couple changes you could see the difference under the valve covers, valley pan, etc.

                          I probably wouldn't use the synthetic unless it was in a freshly rebuilt or re-gasketed engine; Studes tend to leak enough that it might not be cost effective. I do run either Rotella or Delo synthetic in the Porsche and probably will switch to it in the '55 after it is broken in.

                          nate

                          --
                          55 Commander Starlight
                          http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            For folks out there that may not know, if you look on the back of the oil can, you'll see a round circle with an API (American Petroleum Institute) letter rating. Ratings are based upon the severity of engine use. Ratings for gasoline engines start with an "S" and diesel engines start with a "C". Currently produced oils rated "SF-SG" are the highest duty rating available for gas engines. Some SG oils are only gasoline rated while others are dual rated for both types of engines and they'll say something like "SF,SG,CC". Such an oil is pretty good stuff and is suitable for tubrocharged gas engines and for naturally aspirated diesels (CC). A CD oil is for turbocharged diesels and has very high shear strength. An engine running 16-20:1 compression ratio combined with 10 pounds of boost puts very high loads on rod and main bearings. Go to some discount store and look at their ultra cheap oils and you'll see a rating something like SB or SC. Thirty years ago that was top notch stuff but it doesn't get the job done nowdays because engines put out more hp per cubic inch increasing component loadings. I believe it's the better oils that now make 200,000 miles without an overhaul possible. No telling how many miles a Stude engine could have turned over if todays oils had been available back then.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              quote:Originally posted by lube_sales
                              Synthetics can be used for break in without a problem, the old way of thinking that you can not break in an engine on synthics is false and put out by the Power-up and Amzoil people to promote false product quality.
                              I'm confused. Why would Amsoil put out information that you can't break in an engine on synthetics?

                              [img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter

                              1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
                              The Red-Headed Amazon
                              Deep in the heart of Texas

                              Paul Simpson
                              "DilloCrafter"

                              1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
                              The Red-Headed Amazon
                              Deep in the heart of Texas

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