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  • Brakes: No Brake Lights

    62 GT Hawk...how many brake light switches are there.
    I know there is one threaded into the end of brake booster
    but there appears to be another attached to a brake line,only
    this one is wired up. What wires go to the switch on the booster.

    Thank you,
    Totempole

  • #2
    Your Car must have been converted from Manual Brakes to Power brakes. If you have one on the Left Frame Rail just behind the "A" Arm screwed into a Brass "T" Block, it was used for Manual brakes.

    You just need to connect the two, probably Red with White Tracer and Red wires to one of the switches.
    The other can be left disconnected or removed and plugged. I think the one on the Brake Booster would be more convenient to connect.

    The wires break out of the Main Harness on the Inner Fender and one goes to the Turn Signal Switch in the Steering Column, the other to Brake Lt. Fuse and then to the Ammeter for power.

    Test the two wires that are connected by jumpering them together, while someone watches the Brake Lights, be sure the turn signal switch is in Neutral.

    If they work it's a bad Stop Light Switch, if they do not it could be a blown fuse or poor connection on the turn Signal Flasher/Stop Light Fuse Insulator board under the left side of the dash.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 01-19-2014, 06:57 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      Mike, did you find the problem? I have never heard of a car with 2 Stop Light Switches, I would be interested to know what you learn.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        Just read your information...will try what you suggest and get back to you.
        Many Thanks,
        Mike

        Comment


        • #5
          666858 .. Stop (brake) Lamp Switch. Same as FoMoCo C1AZ-13480-A (replaced 0A-13480) Motorcraft SW-24

          This switch is pressure activated, is notorious for getting gummed up with dirty brake fluid.

          I've forgotten where the switch is located on Studebaker's, but on FoMoCo's, it threads directly into the master cylinder, or to a brass block that threads into the master cylinder.

          The C1AZ switch fits myriad 1940/66 FoMoCo vehicles, is available from Ford, and a gazillion auto parts stores.
          Last edited by WinM1895; 01-22-2014, 08:09 PM.

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          • #6
            The stoplight switch also crosses to an SL 134 as well as a Niehoff 7715, about $6-$8 at most parts places. Also if you're using silicon fluid you may want to put a couple of drops of DOT 3 fluid into the switch before installing it. This extends the life of the switch. Rob in PA.

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            • #7
              Beside a wonky switch, bad grounds are a common source of electric problems on any car but especially on old ones.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                Mike, did you find the problem? I have never heard of a car with 2 Stop Light Switches, I would be interested to know what you learn.
                I removed the two wires
                from the switch on the brake line and attached them to the switch on the booster...nothing. I jumped the two wires together and got some arcing... each time they arced the brake lights would blink bright. I guess
                both switches are bad. The tail lights don't work either, the headlights work as do the turn signals. The
                interior lights don't work nor does the dimmer switch. Many Thanks, Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  Did the Dome Light work before you shorted out the Brake Light wires? They are on the SAME Fuse, check it.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don't think that he shorted any wires to ground
                    When he connected the two wires to the switch to each other he got some sparking
                    from the current going to the brake light and the brake light came "on" so that wiring is good.
                    the brake light switch is bad!!

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                    • #11
                      The dome light DID work before the short, as a matter of fact it stayed on all the time...had to remove the bulb.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rkapteyn View Post
                        i don't think that he shorted any wires to ground
                        when he connected the two wires to the switch to each other he got some sparking
                        from the current going to the brake light and the brake light came "on" so that wiring is good.
                        The brake light switch is bad!!
                        which one or both???

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                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=StudeRich;819827]Did the Dome Light work before you shorted out the Brake Light wires? They are on the SAME Fuse, check it.[Yes it did work...stayed on with the door closed even./QUOTE]

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                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=Totempole;820393]
                            Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                            Did the Dome Light work before you shorted out the Brake Light wires? They are on the SAME Fuse, check it.[Yes it did work...stayed on with the door closed even./QUOTE]
                            Well then, is the Fuse blown?
                            StudeRich
                            Second Generation Stude Driver,
                            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                            • #15
                              Brake lights

                              [QUOTE=StudeRich;820426][QUOTE=Totempole;820393]

                              Well then, is the Fuse blown?
                              [would the fuse be bad if the dome light worked and the brake lights come on when the wire leads are shorted?]

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