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  • Engine: Torque?

    Hey everyone,

    I'm almost ready to reassemble my commander v8. Can you advise on how much torque I should use to tighten the crankshaft bolts, pistons and heads? Also a bolt tightening sequence is welcome!

    Thanks so much and happy holidays!!!
    Polle

  • #2
    You also need crankshaft end play specs. Wrist pin pinch bolt tightening procedure is critical as well. I'd respectfully recommend you buy or borrow a shop manual. STUDEBAKER had very good shop manuals and they're all available in reprint.
    QUOTE=Polle;807648]Hey everyone,

    I'm almost ready to reassemble my commander v8. Can you advise on how much torque I should use to tighten the crankshaft bolts, pistons and heads? Also a bolt tightening sequence is welcome!

    Thanks so much and happy holidays!!!
    Polle[/QUOTE]

    Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
    53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
    57 SH (project)
    60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

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    • #3
      What he said...
      In my opinion, you should not have started this rebuild without a manual.

      Mike

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      • #4
        Hey folks...take it easy. Unless I'm mistaken, this is one of our international members in another country. He may even be using an "interpreter" program to translate between languages. Not that the advice is not justified, but we need to do it in an encouraging way.

        Polle...I seem to recall you having a 1955 6 cylinder truck. Are you installing a Commander V8 in it, or did you buy another Studebaker? Regardless...it is almost essential to have the correct manual. They are not only available in print, but also on CD. Hopefully, someone else will respond with a list of vendors you can check out. Good luck with the build.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          Polle; A Location would be a very important addition to your Profile information, it will show on your Posts so we have a clue approximately at least, WHERE you are.

          This actually applies to everyone, and is Mandatory.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            Sorry for this guys, i was 't aware, so I just added my location in my profile. i'm from the netherlands in europe.Obviously, english is not my native language but I try to do without intepreters ;-)
            I really didn't mean to step on any toes here, i'm just looking for some help and advice which has always been great in the past!

            I'm working on my v8 commander that i built into my '55 studebaker e series 1/2 ton truck earlier: Cleaning her up inside and out, changing all gaskets, seals, valves and rings and so one...having loads of fun together with my dad! As far as I know, the engine is completely stock.

            I'll see if I can get a manual somewhere. If someone has additional info, please feel free to comment! All help is appreciated!

            Thanks for the feedback guys sofar and have a great xmas!

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            • #7
              I also encourage you to get the shop manual, I recommend the manuals on CD from Studebaker International. In the mean time here are jpg files of the torque specs, Merry Christmas to you.
              Attached Files
              Pat Dilling
              Olivehurst, CA
              Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


              LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

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              • #8
                Cylinder Heads bolts are 55-65 ft-lbs range. I go 60 ft-lbs with some oiling of the bolt threads and a smear of oil underneath the hex head section. Sequence is you start in the middle and work out on both ends for a count of 18 bolts. Go 40 ft-lbs on first cycle , then 60 on final cycle. Make sure the block boss threads are clean and not 1/2 filled with oily crud. You don't want it to smear out and contaminate the new cylinder head gasket. Gasket is marked "this side up." Retorque after several heat cycles. Cooper spray on both sides of the gasket helps or Indian head shellac. Make sure the pushrods stay in their cups on the ends of the rocker arms while torqueing the rocker arm stands.

                Rod bolts are 52 ft-lbs per manual. Again a smear of oil on rhe threads. Make sure the back side of the rod bolt is fully seated on the the rod end shoulder. Rods and caps are numbered. All numbers must be visible when viewed from bottom of crank.

                Main caps are 85-90 ft lbs (double check) Don't have a manual in front of me. Make sure caps are 1- 5 with # 1 in the front. Usually only 2,3,4 have actual numbers the other being understood (by some). Numbers face toward the right when engine is upside down or driver side of block. Tap the caps in gently until they seat, then add the bolts.
                Tighten in steps of 40/60/85 ft-lbs turning the crank on each step to insure the fit is rotating with out bind or excessive friction. If crank rotation gets tight or stops. Stop, something is wrong.

                Good luck. Your English is fine. Your country is beautiful place to visit and live. I drove a lot on those roads in an Army duce & half back in 69-70 out of Baumholder.
                Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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                • #9
                  You will also find a wealth of information on Bob Johnstones site. http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx4.html

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                  • #10
                    thanks once more for all the effort, info and help guys! I really appreciate it! I will use the specs given, rebuilding the engine :-)

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                    • #11
                      Get the Manual... well worth it if you are going to work on them.

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