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'51 and '52 vague steering. join in as I sort it outů.

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  • Stude Star
    replied
    Hi guys, new bushings installed, new bearing, seals and gaskets. Job's a good'n


    Thanks

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  • Stude Star
    replied
    Back from Holiday now. just had the pitman shaft machined and a new bush installed.

    I had a thought, as the steering gear is a ratio of 20-1 any play in the steering box magnifies this problem 20 fold at the wheels, where as 1/16" of play in a control arm shaft would be just that at the wheels. Is my thinking correct??

    Anyhow, new outer upper control arm pins were needed. I'm just waiting for the steering shaft bearing and a couple of other small things and the steering box can go back together.
    Any idea on where to get a new horn wire or small I make my own?

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  • Stude Star
    replied
    Found it!

    I'm sure it's called a type 'S' for Saginaw!

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  • Stude Star
    replied
    I now have the '51 manual, not much use really as there are no exploded diagrams...

    Anyhow I'm trying to order parts for the steering box and still don't know whether it's a TA or TL box, it's Saginaw so thats...??.......

    Cheers,

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  • Stude Star
    replied
    Hi guys,

    Annoyingly I only have a '50 workshop manual which I know is incorrect for a '51. So I have been googling all the info I need.

    I have purchased a '51 book and that should be with me shortly.

    I was 99% sure I had a Saginaw box, just wanted someone to say so which you guys now have done cheers.

    Next job is to get the steering wheel off, I will purchase a bearing puller and use that with the gear puller.

    I'm going to tackle the kingpins on Xmas day, any advice?

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  • Dwain G.
    replied
    Are you working from a 1951 shop manual? Information on the Saginaw steering wasn't in the original version, but was sent to dealers later. Do you have that section in your book?

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  • GEEMAC
    replied
    StudeRich, Is their anything to the fact that the 51 steering assy. is so to speak a bred of it,s own, parts will not interchange with the 50s down or the52s & up, just curious,have heard this talked about. Thanks Mac.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by jclary View Post
    Well...I just logged on and saw you had posted the above. That steering gear is a totally different animal than the Ross (I think) that is in my '48. Look forward to seeing your progress. Keep up the good work.
    I think you are familiar with the Ross boxes, this one is a Saginaw. About a 10 times better Gear!

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    The shims are on the Ross boxes. The sector shaft bushing should be recessed enough to have room for the shaft seal. I have a complete column and box out of a 50 Commander, that works smoothly. (if you can't source parts locally).

    Leave a comment:


  • jclary
    replied
    Well...I just logged on and saw you had posted the above. That steering gear is a totally different animal than the Ross (I think) that is in my '48. Look forward to seeing your progress. Keep up the good work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stude Star
    replied
    Hey guys, steering box is out!

    We took the seat out, disconnected the wiring and pulled the box through the firewall with the column and steering wheel attached.


    I then disassembled some of the steering box and found worn bushings, worn tapered bearings and a broken horn button. the pitman shaft assembly seems good.


    Should the lower steering shaft bearing have this protruding part of the race? The roller in this area fell out, all the other rollers stayed in place, thoughts? The tapered bush it rides against is scored.



    Does anyone know where abouts the shims are that i've heard so much about? And what box do I have? I presume it's a Saginaw? Is that TL??

    Thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated.

    Cheers, Aaron
    Last edited by Stude Star; 12-22-2013, 08:58 AM.

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  • studepack
    replied
    Try the local parts store and get a large 2 legged puller (one that goes to 6") and a large bearing splitter. Mount the splitter below the steering wheel and shifter housing. Put the legs of the puller to the underside of the bearing splitter. Make sure the splitter is hand tight on the column. The splitter has to loose enough to slide up the column but not too loose where it goes sideways when pulling on it. The legs of the puller will have to be positioned so they won't interfere with the steering wheel. Since my puller has a dimple on the end I took a 5/16" carriage bolt and drilled a dimple on the head. This allows my puller to make contact with the dimple on the carriage bolt. The bolt slides into the tube (where the steering wheel nut was attached). This prevents damage to the tube. The steering wheel pops loose very easily once you start cranking down on the puller.

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  • Stude Star
    replied
    Great info guys. The steering box is coming out today one way or another!

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  • 52 Ragtop
    replied
    Brad,
    The more I think about it, the box IS pretty small, I've not tried it through the firewall, but, I'll look at that real close when I replace mine.
    Thanks

    Jim

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    Yes you CAN take the steering box out. In fact it is the only way you can remove it.....that is through the inside of the car!!! Even if you get the wheel off, the steering shaft remains. Take out the firewall seal screws that bolt it into place. (It's a very large rectangle of rubber bonded over steel, and bolted to the firewall around the steering column). Then disconnect the pittman arm from the steering box, unbolt the box from the frame, disconnect the column wires for the horn and turn signal switch, unbolt the column from the dashboard brace, and pull the whole works into the car. No need to take the wheel off to remove the steering box.
    I almost forgot you need to disconnect the shift linkage on the lower column too.
    Last edited by bezhawk; 12-22-2013, 07:11 AM.

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