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  • Fuel System: changing 2bbl to 4bbl carb

    I want to change over to a 4bbl from a 2bbl on 54 pick up with a 259 in it. What is a good 4bbl to do it?

  • #2
    A good wcfb setup runs real good on these

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    • #3
      what is a wcfb?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jbjr View Post
        what is a wcfb?
        'White Cast Four Barrel' Carter carb built between 1952? thru 1962. Studebaker used it as OEM from 1955 thru 1962. GREAT carb in their day....but they are getting old. A new Edelbrock AFB four barrel with electric choke may indeed be a better choice.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jbjr View Post
          what is a wcfb?
          http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Car...etors.htm#WCFB

          Interesting notes about the name. Cheers, Junior
          sigpic
          1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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          • #6
            1403 Edelbrock w/ electric choke. (Summit, Jeg's, Speedway, Autozone, etc)

            http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...erformer.shtml

            AFB modified intake manifold.

            Year round driving, or summer fair weather driving?
            Send me a PM for AFB ready cast iron Stude intakes, intake install kits, and some optional info that can help you with this swap.
            Jeff
            Last edited by DEEPNHOCK; 11-28-2013, 03:54 PM.
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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            • #7
              http://www.horsepowermonster.com/201...et-demon-carb/ This one has been getting good reviews too. The secondary air valve is adjustable to different cfm requirements. If you have to have an Edelbrock, the AVS clone is also adjustable, and a better choice for such a small engine.
              Last edited by bezhawk; 11-28-2013, 05:51 PM.
              Bez Auto Alchemy
              573-318-8948
              http://bezautoalchemy.com


              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jbjr View Post
                I want to change over to a 4bbl from a 2bbl on 54 pick up with a 259 in it. What is a good 4bbl to do it?
                Want a 4bbl is a personal choice and not arguable.

                What results from the change do you want and expect?

                To get much in the way of measurable results, you'd want to also change to dual exhausts, recurve the distributor and mill the heads for more compression.

                jack vines
                PackardV8

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                • #9
                  I am getting poor mpg, and a cough going down a hill, also hesitation when accl. I was told the 4bbl would help solve the problem

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                  • #10
                    I have a stock manifold, stock WCFB and the dry air cleaner $200.00 plus shipping
                    Candbstudebakers
                    Castro Valley,
                    California


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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jbjr View Post
                      I am getting poor mpg, and a cough going down a hill, also hesitation when accl. I was told the 4bbl would help solve the problem
                      In this case, it might just be advisable to "fix" what you have..!

                      Adjust the valves, replace the points, cap, rotor and wires in your ignition system, Set the initial timing (at the crank) to about 8 degrees before TDC.
                      ThEn the carburetor....If you arent good with it, find a friend or a GOOD shop that will do a "proper" rebuild on YOUR carburetor. DO NOT take it to a carb. "rebuilder"...! It's not likely you'll get YOUR carb. back, but a bunch of pieces and parts that "resemble" like your carburetor. Have the rebuilder do a close check on the throttle shaft to body fit. It may actually be worn out...that is too loose a fit and leaking air. Bushings can be installed to tighten thing up cheaper than the launder list of thing required for a 4 barrel swap.

                      Just slapping on a new 500cfm Edelbrock or other brand carb., won't necessarilly "fix" the way the engine runs now... Do the above work first... Do a proper tuneup on the rest of the engine first..!

                      Just my nickles worth.

                      Mike

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                      • #12
                        Mike is giving you some good advice.
                        Studebaker's are not overly complicated machines.
                        But good diagnostics for a vintage machine can be a real help.
                        So many times people start swapping parts without really knowing, or understanding what their engine is doing, or not doing.

                        There are many people out there willing to help, and offer advice, or parts and services.
                        But the real joy is to learn the 'in's and outs' of the machine and understand it's needs.

                        My initial response was to answer your original question 'as asked'.
                        But later post's and replies have drawn more out into the conversation, and that has changed the question somewhat, which is fine.

                        It's all good.

                        Your choices here are....

                        (A) Tune up and carb adjustment. (don't forget the clean gas tank, and clean fuel lines)
                        (B) Add a carb rebuild to (A)
                        (C) Change the 2bbl carb ...after doing (A)
                        (D) Change to a 4bbl carb*, intake, air cleaner....after doing (A)

                        * Buy a new AFB, buy an AFB conversion manifold, swap a different air cleaner, re-route your fuel lines, re-do your throttle link a bit...
                        * Buy Bob Peterson's setup and rebuild that 4bbl carb (but not have to mess with all the fab work)

                        All viable choices that should bring your driving pleasure back to your Studebaker.
                        And none of the choices are really wrong....
                        But some of the choices are not addressing your core problem.
                        Solve that one first, and then go after the performance gain choices.

                        This is a great source for good info.
                        Jeff
                        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                        Jeff


                        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          In the past several years, all of my non-supercharged cars have been converted to modern (4bbl) carbs, picture of the 54 Commander conversion is attached. In this case it was a 600 cfn Edelbrock, though 500 CFM would work. At the same time a return vapor line back to the top of the gas intake opening was installed per recommendation from those who know far more than I about Studebakers. Since then nearly, yearly maintenance of the old carb was eliminated and have not experienced vapor lock. Had to modify the manifold and install manual choke and because one important objective was to maintain as much original appearance as possible, the underside of the Studebaker air filter had to be modified and its base slanted slightly towards the fender to avoid contact with the slope of the hood. A lot of trouble, but well worth it. Ken, Deltavilleve,Va
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by ken-renda; 11-29-2013, 09:00 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ken-renda View Post
                            In the past several years, all of my non-supercharged cars have been converted to modern (4bbl) carbs, picture of the 54 Commander conversion is attached. In this case it was a 600 cfn Edelbrock, though 500 CFM would work. At the same time a return vapor line back to the top of the gas intake opening was installed per recommendation from those who know far more than I about Studebakers. Since then nearly, yearly maintenance of the old carb was eliminated and have not experienced vapor lock. Had to modify the manifold and install manual chock and because one important objective was to maintain as much original appearance as possible, the underside of the Studebaker air filter had to be modified and its base slanted slightly towards the fender to avoid contact with the slope of the hood. A lot of trouble, but well worth it. Ken, Deltavilleve,Va
                            Definitely a clean conversion. IMHO the 'best' ones look like they came from the factory
                            --------------------------------------

                            Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

                            Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

                            "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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                            • #15
                              Thanks for all the help,I did a tune up on it about 4 months ago, and was running fine this problem started in a little while ago.I drive the truck everyday as long as it doesn't snow. As soon as i figure out how to post pictures of the new paint job I will put the truck onto show it off.

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