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Losing clutch adjustment - '64 Commander

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  • #31
    Congrats D - it is a never ending process - just when you think one thing is done, something else will crop up. Noticed on my truck the other day the fuel pump is leaking out of the bottom... Now you can take that thing to Dover and show it off.

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    • #32
      I just sat down with my third cup of coffee for my morning review of the forum and re-read this whole thread.

      It never ceases to amaze me as to the wealth of combined knowledge that exists here on this forum.

      I feel bad for Stude folks who don't frequent this forum. Where the heck else could I access so much specific information on this topic??

      So...a heartfelt "thanks" to all of you folks who offer your experiences.

      You have bailed me out many a time and I truly appreciate it!

      D
      sigpicGood judgment is the result of experience; ...experience is the result of bad judgment.

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      • #33
        Hey Doug,
        Glad it worked out for you.

        Joe

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        • #34
          When I replaced my clutch I also put in a new shaft.......but I had the levers welded in the position they came with....now I never have to worry about the "chinsy" kind of brazed job the shaft came with.
          Originally posted by gordr View Post
          The "fork" on the inside of the bell housing isn't one piece. It's two levers separately brazed to the shaft. Also not that as the clutch disc wears down, the mechanical advantage of the levers within the pressure plate itself decreases, and it becomes harder to release the clutch, because the levers are working at an unfavorable angle. And Robert Kapteyn is right, that is a good fix. Better than new. It puts the thrust exactly on the axis of the new "rod" and eliminates a bending moment.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by rkapteyn View Post
            Old timers remember Dick Datson's fix.
            Replace 29 and 35 with two clevises and threaded rod.
            Robert Kapteyn
            I did this on my (ex) 64 Daytona, that rod had a lot of slop I couldn't get out.

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            • #36
              Also check 206-19. On my Champ, the cup part had multiple fractures, the pivot inside was no longer perepindicular, and the operating shaft would pop on and off.

              Originally posted by BobPalma View Post
              The fork could be slipping (rotating) on the cross shaft inside the bellhousing, Doug, but don't jump to that conclusion just yet.

              Reference this diagram:



              1. Look at Rod #0206-29. That operates in compression. They will sometimes bend, causing a car to loose adjustment. When they finally "go," you loose all ability to control the clutch and it is engaged until the rod is replaced. (BTDT, honest; I drove my '64 hardtop home in first gear about three miles, being really careful to anticipate stops and corners so I wouldn't have to turn off the engine!)

              2. Next, check the position of the arm on the outside of Shaft #0206-1. It may be rotating slightly on that shaft, causing you to lose adjustment.

              3. Finally, check Coupling #0206-26 and Coupling Pins #0206-27. Earlier in its life, one of those pins started to fall out of the coupling on my car. It got loose enough to "hog out" the coupling over time, again causing the clutch to lose adjustment.

              In other words, look anywhere an external failure may occur, because there are several weak links in that setup. Remember, we are using these cars far longer than they were ever intended to be in service, and all those parts are starting to have served as many cycles as a New York City taxi! BP
              Ron Dame
              '63 Champ

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