Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Is it feasible to install a swinging brake pedal on a 1959-60 Lark type?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brakes: Is it feasible to install a swinging brake pedal on a 1959-60 Lark type?

    I'm contemplating picking up a 1960-62 Lark 4 door wagon and restifying it as a daily driver and am aware of the undercar master cylinder on the 1960 model. Is it feasible/practical to install a 1961+ swinging brake pedal assembly to place the master cylinder on the firewall?
    --------------------------------------

    Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

    Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

  • #2
    Should be able too,I'm thinking if you can find one from a 63,64 Champ - as they are pretty much a early Lark.
    Joseph R. Zeiger

    Comment


    • #3
      I think I've got a complete '64 Daytona manual transmission swinging pedal takeout. Are you thinking manual or automatic trans? Automatic brake pedal is cake. The clutch is a bit more work as it should be converted to hydraulic master cylinder and throwout bearing.

      jack vines
      PackardV8

      Comment


      • #4
        My opinion, spend your time and money on other stuff on the car.
        You'll get used to the under floor stuff quickly enough. That's one of the good things about the human body, if left to itself, it learns to adapt.

        Been driving my 59, 2dr wagon almost daily for going on 12 years now. The first few miles were a bit odd, after that...no big deal.

        Mike

        Comment


        • #5
          Jack, if you use the Daytona pedal set and convert to a hydraulic master/slave for the clutch, that would save me a lot of headaches with my 60 Lark. It will have a T5 with a Centerforce PP. Checking on Summit, there are hydraulic throwout bearings for the T5, One, the Howe, is about $130. All the others, Mcleod, are $400 to $500. Have you used either?
          sigpic
          JohnP, driving & reviving
          60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by allstateguy View Post
            Jack, if you use the Daytona pedal set and convert to a hydraulic master/slave for the clutch, that would save me a lot of headaches with my 60 Lark. It will have a T5 with a Centerforce PP. Checking on Summit, there are hydraulic throwout bearings for the T5, One, the Howe, is about $130. All the others, Mcleod, are $400 to $500. Have you used either?
            On my custom Hawk, several years back, I bought the McLeod and consider it overpriced and old technology. On the more recent C-cab/Packard V8 swap, I just used a GM V8 pickup for $65.

            jack vines
            PackardV8

            Comment


            • #7
              You will most likely have to reinforce the firewall on an early Lark if you go to swing pedals...otherwise, the pedal is always going to feel "spongy".

              OTOH, the underfloor Lark and Hawk pedals are actually mounted to the frame and are quite stiff. There is no lost motion in applying the brakes (or clutch). Porsche still uses this method I believe. For the hydraulic clutch, just siamese another Lark M/C (less residual check valve) next to the brake M/C. Attach them both with the same through bolts. Then a relatively simple linkage from the clutch pedal direct to the new clutch M/C.
              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

              Comment


              • #8
                Dick,
                I've been thinking over the ups and downs of clutch and brakes (ha!) for years now, using the forum to push my sails one way or the other. I know the 60 firewall is a weak point and would need help to put pedals up against it. But I'm also tired of laying underneath the car, fighting the dirt, spiders, and really tight fits of things to try and connect brake lines, etc. Haven't made up my mind yet, but convenience may win out, if I can see a fairly easy, sturdy way to get the pedals and the reinforcement into place.

                Jack,
                Thanks for the concentric slave cylinder advice. Sure would save some nickels. I'm guessing a 3/4" master would pump it correctly?
                sigpic
                JohnP, driving & reviving
                60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp View Post
                  You will most likely have to reinforce the firewall on an early Lark if you go to swing pedals...otherwise, the pedal is always going to feel "spongy".

                  OTOH, the underfloor Lark and Hawk pedals are actually mounted to the frame and are quite stiff. There is no lost motion in applying the brakes (or clutch). Porsche still uses this method I believe. For the hydraulic clutch, just siamese another Lark M/C (less residual check valve) next to the brake M/C. Attach them both with the same through bolts. Then a relatively simple linkage from the clutch pedal direct to the new clutch M/C.
                  Originally posted by allstateguy View Post
                  Dick,
                  I've been thinking over the ups and downs of clutch and brakes (ha!) for years now, using the forum to push my sails one way or the other. I know the 60 firewall is a weak point and would need help to put pedals up against it. But I'm also tired of laying underneath the car, fighting the dirt, spiders, and really tight fits of things to try and connect brake lines, etc. Haven't made up my mind yet, but convenience may win out, if I can see a fairly easy, sturdy way to get the pedals and the reinforcement into place.

                  Jack,
                  Thanks for the concentric slave cylinder advice. Sure would save some nickels. I'm guessing a 3/4" master would pump it correctly?
                  The 'soft' firewall issue does concern me. That stated; the idea of fiddlef*rting with an underfloor master cylinder, especially if I decide to pair it with a booster, does not excite me at all.
                  --------------------------------------

                  Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

                  Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

                  "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You mean they build cars with pedals that swing? (don't come up through floorboard)
                    Last edited by Flashback; 11-20-2013, 03:49 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here is a picture of something hanging in a 62 hawk I have here at the shop, the car have been cut up and not much left but the body from fire wall back to front of the removed trunk, anyone interested in it I will remove it and we can deal ...Bob



                      Candbstudebakers
                      Castro Valley,
                      California


                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This is on my 63 T-Cab, but it is similar to the Lark.

                        [/URL]

                        [/URL]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          i think i'd leave it where it is. rebuild the M/C if needed and maybe go with a disc brake upgrade from Mr. Turner for better braking response.
                          from what i've seen, the discs will help just as well or more than "power" drums - at a lower cost for parts and your labor.

                          if i'm wrong, let me know - that is on my to do "list" with the '51.
                          Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                          '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                          '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you would use a chunk of firewall from a '63/4 T Cab be careful of the column where it comes through as they changed the steering boxes and your earlier box may not fit the offset. I really don't know why you couldn't piece in a '61-'66 Lark style firewall even though the cowls were slightly different.
                            Rob in PA.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X