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Tank Removal on 57 Hawk

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  • Fuel System: Tank Removal on 57 Hawk

    Is there a secret to removing the rear bolt/nut on the driver side? All the others were nice and easy to remove but I can't seem to get a wrench on the bolt head and when I turn the nut it just spins the unit. I'm hesitant to use a grinder/cutoff wheel on it in case of fumes and sparks. I bought a nut splitter but can't seem to get it on there well enough. My next idea is to vice-grip what I can of the bolt and hope I can hold the bolt while turning the nut. I tried undoing the other two bolts and trying to pry down the tank enough or bend the ear enough to get my hand above it to put a wrench on it. Air chisel? When/If I finally get the bolt out and the new tank in, what could I use to prevent this from happening again if I ever needed to remove the tank? Carriage bolts? While I'm on the subject, what about a tank pad? I saw one strip between the tank and body (didn't seem like enough). Dynamat? Some rubberized undercoating? The wire going to my sending unit is bare near the connector. Should I reuse it or splice in new(would that change the resistance and reading)? Decided to replace the tank with a later (58+) because my gauge was laying on the front seat when I got the car it's a pain to get a sending unit for 57s and I'm tired of running out of gas.

  • #2
    I stock sending units for 1957 Hawks
    Golden Hawk is a 3/8" line.
    Silver Hawk is 5/16" line.
    Robert Kapteyn
    815 722 7262


    • #3
      These guys will build you a new sending unit. Floats are coated to resist new fuels.
      My first car on the road again!

      The old girl has never been sold to the public
      Grandpa was a Studie dealer. He got it off the car carrier in 1956 and drove it until 1959
      My dad: 1959-70


      Me: 1970-2015 and counting!


      • #4
        Already bought the new sending unit and had the tank coated. Maybe if I ever want to go back to stock