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Intake Manifold Gasket installation

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  • Engine: Intake Manifold Gasket installation

    Ready to bolt on my intake.
    61 289 for Sandi's car.
    Gasket kit came with metal Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets.
    Any Tips? on Installation.
    Should the go on dry or use ???? sealer?
    Metal rib up or down?
    Please share your thoughts.
    Thanks
    Brian
    Brian Woods
    woodysrods@shaw.ca
    1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

  • #2
    the rib goes up,as for sealer I've never used any "but maybe the real mechanics can give a better answer"
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    • #3
      No sealer needed. I too wondered about up or down this last summer on my Lark build, and finally read in the repair manual somewhere that the rib goes up.

      Allen
      1964 GT Hawk
      PSMCDR 2014
      Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
      PSMCDR 2013
      Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter

      Victoria, Canada

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      • #4
        I use Permatex High Tack or aviation formagasket on intake manifold gaskets. I don't know that it's absolutely necessary, but I think a good sealer will make up for any surface irregularities. And yes the rib side goes up toward the manifold. Bud

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        • #5
          What's the intake manifold made of..?

          If iron, a quick shot of Copper Coat to the embossed steel gasket and bolt it together, rib up.

          If aluminum, go buy some dark gray soft material, use the steel gasket as a template, cut out two soft gaskets, put them on dry.

          Mike

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          • #6
            That gasket is stamped steel. I always use copper spray on the intakes. Two reasons. One is for the additional sealing, the other reason is the tacky nature of the copper spray helps the gasket stay in place while installing. I've never had one leak using this method. When I cut my own intake gaskets, I use the thick gasket paper and with those, I don't use any spray or sealer. I've had great success with both methods.
            sals54

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            • #7
              Thanks Guys
              You confirmed my thoughts!
              Install tomorrow.
              Good Roads
              Brian
              Brian Woods
              woodysrods@shaw.ca
              1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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              • #8
                I use McCord gaskets, with silver paint, for sealer. I also use studs (four center bolts, two on each side) to hold the gaskets in place while installing intake.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by woodysrods View Post
                  Ready to bolt on my intake.
                  61 289 for Sandi's car.
                  Gasket kit came with metal Fel-Pro intake manifold gaskets.
                  Any Tips? on Installation.
                  Should the go on dry or use ???? sealer?
                  Metal rib up or down?
                  Please share your thoughts.
                  Thanks
                  Brian
                  I was recently reading in a Ford manual that the heads and intake manifold should be torqued at the same time in a specified pattern to assure a quality seal. I have never read that this should apply to a Stude, but it seems like a good procedure to follow for any V8 engine FYI
                  Dave

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                  • #10
                    Why not just read the Stude service manual?

                    You should always use a circular pattern to tighten and torque the intake manifold mount bolts.
                    Center out...
                    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                    Jeff


                    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                    • #11
                      woodysrods,--- If You didn't already have the new Fel-Pro metal intake gaskets....I'd suggest giving Dave Thibeault a call and purchasing a set of his new composite type intake gaskets......great seal on not-so-great surfaces!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by altair View Post
                        I was recently reading in a Ford manual that the heads and intake manifold should be torqued at the same time in a specified pattern to assure a quality seal. I have never read that this should apply to a Stude, but it seems like a good procedure to follow for any V8 engine FYI
                        Dave
                        This would most likely apply to the big block "FE" series engines where the intake sits at a 90 degree angle to the top of the cylinder bank. This series engine is the only one I have seen that one can remove the head without removing the intake due to this design.
                        59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                        60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                        61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                        62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                        62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                        62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                        63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                        63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                        64 Zip Van
                        66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                        66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                          This would most likely apply to the big block "FE" series engines where the intake sits at a 90 degree angle to the top of the cylinder bank. This series engine is the only one I have seen that one can remove the head without removing the intake due to this design.
                          And the only one where you have to remove some of the pushrods in order to remove the intake. That's one huge intake.
                          Jerry Forrester
                          Forrester's Chrome
                          Douglasville, Georgia

                          See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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