R1 fuel pump rebuild proceedure - w/pics!

[bams50]

My question: If someone is building a non-R2 car from scratch and installing an R2 engine, and is concerned with function and not originality, what would be the ideal setup for the return line?

Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
Parish, central NY 13131

[nels]

Don't know if this has been mentioned but I have never been successful at overhauling an R series pump with the new kits. The stem seal always leaks and fills the top of the diaphram with oil. Check yours after you put some miles on it.

[Kenmike2]

The higher in the engine compartment AND the closer to the carb fuel inlet the better. Use this as your design criteria and you'll be OK.
Regards
Ken Michael

[Kenmike2]

to handle our AZ heat and prevent vapor lock on ALL STUDEBAKER ENGINES here's how I do it. Under the hood, eliminate all heat soak items from the fuel system. Slow moving fuel will absorb gobs of heat if the external temp is very high, and vapor will result. ELIMINATE HEAT SOAK CAPABILITY. I remove the fuel pump and any/all other under hood items that can retain fuel.
Then I re-route the fule line up the firewall, and over to the carb inlet with a metal cannister fuel filter less than 4 inches from the carb inlet. Get it just as close as the air filter housing will allow. Use a filter with the return branch tube and plumb a return tube all the way back to the tank. DON'T SHORTCUT THIS ITEM. The rETURN FUEL MUST GO ALL THE WAY INTO THE TANK WHERE IT CAN BE RECOOLED BY THE BULK OF THE FUEL IN THE TANK. The tank itself is a huge heat exchanger and will reconvert any vapor back to liquid fuel.
Next put an electric pump somewhere near the tank to push fuel forwaard to the engine.
I put icing on the cake by putting "firesleeve" insulator material around the fuel supply tube and the fuel return tube for at least 3 feet down from the filter at the carb.
This system has withstood PHX heat of 113 degrees and sat idling with A/C on for as much as 30 minutes in 113 heat and has not vapor locked EVER under any circumstances. The water temp went to 240, it lost no water, and the A/C worked great.
You can cut corners if you like but if you want a system that works with todays fuels this is it.
See my website under Avanti R4004 for more details and photos.
Regards
Ken Michael

[sbca96]

Wow, this thread took off again. I have been busy with my dad visiting
from Michigan so I havent been here much. I lost the stock fitting so
I got the info from someone here I believe. I seem to remember having
to drill something out. Its been a while.

Yes, the pump seal IS leaking, and sucks oil into the top of the pump.
I have a tube into the fitting on the top of the pump to suck the oil
into the intake and keep it from coating the engine. Not the best way
to solve the problem, but it allowed me to drive the car home.[xx(]

Tom

[sbca96]

Might be on one of these threads :

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5816&SearchTerms=return,line

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4276&SearchTerms=return,line

Tom

[studebakerkid]

I had to do similar as kenmike2 twenty years ago with the 54 to avoid vapor lock. Now with the transplated bowtie 250 I still have the fuel recirculating. You would be surprised how easy it is to remove the filler neck steel pipe and weld in a fuel tight fitting.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
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55 Commander Wagon
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