R1 fuel pump rebuild proceedure - w/pics!

[sbca96]

Bummer Nate ... dont know what to tell you - updated the "modified"
section above, now that you can the pics Nate .. what you think?

Tom

[stude53]

Tom,
Great tutorial and great pictures.
Thanks. Added this thread to my Favorites list.

[img=left]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/stude53/studesmall2.jpg[/img=left]Bob Feaganes (stude53)
53 Starliner Hardtop
Newton Grove, NC

[N8N]

Looks good to me, I haven't had a chance to (and probably won't for a while) look at my own fuel pump yet, but I'll probably be calling your pics up if I see anything questionable...

I did take my car for a couple spins around the block today, I think I have most of the electrical stuff taken care of (still need to hook up the backup light switch and horn) and it actually runs pretty good... only issues that I can see are a) the fan (viscous drive) is too close to the shroud - which is odd, because I don't remember having an issue before - and the driveshaft issue that I've already mentioned. I got the speedo hooked up and working, but it reads fast because all I could find was a 3.31:1 pinion adapter. So I'm making *some* progress...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[sbca96]

Thanks Bob, Nate and Mike ... Updated the assembly portion, so guess
what I did today???

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[bams50]

Tom, have you ever thought about putting this stuff in a blog? As you know, at some point your pics will not be accessible through this thread; and although I doubt I'll ever have use for them, probably lots of folks would benefit by referencing threads like these. Blogs are free, don't take any more work to do then these threads, and they'd be there for the future... you could do a thread here and ost the blog link; everyone could read the thread, and easily go to the blog if they choose. You could call it a Stude tech blog!

Food for thought...

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[sbca96]

Robert,

I am hosting the pictures on my FTP, so they will be around as long
as I have my FTP. I have had AOL for 10 years now, and dont have any
plans on switching. I thought about making a webpage for each of the
tech posts that I do, seats, fuel pump, & of course the Cobra brakes.
The pictures would still be hosted on my FTP though. As with the
Impala SS forum, its really up to the moderator to make a post like
this into a "sticky". The moderator could create an area of the Tech
Talk forum devoted to indepth posts such as this one. I have a post
on the Impala SS forum thats a "sticky" for changing a water pump seal
on the timing cover of the LT1. It requires a special tool. I figured
out a way to make the tool from a dry-erase marker. I made a drawing
for others to also make one. Its had a lot of traffic though it, and
even though I posted it a few years ago now, I still do get questions
from people that didnt read it all the way through.

As you can tell I put a lot of effort into this post, as I did the two
other posts I did on here I mentioned above. This was also a learning
experience for me, I have never rebuilt one before, and I got a LOT of
great help from Nate and Mike M. Thanks guys!

Tom

[clonelark]

Hi Tom, you said you replaced the spring with a high presure (the gold and white springs) you installed the gold spring.
If both springs are the same OD and the same wire size the one with the fewer coils will be the stronger spring.
It's like straightening out the spring in to one long bar the shorter bar will be harder to bend. thus stronger spring. I am a previous spring manufacturer.

[WCP]

If you feel the need for an extra sealant on the diaphragm, Permatex Hylomar HPF would be a better choice. I used it on the pair of air horn gaskets on my R2 to eliminate seepage around the air horn to body interface. After 3200 miles of highway driving this spring, it has been 98% successful. On later disassembly, the Hylomar separates and cleans up quite nicely.

[StudeRich]

Tom; over the several years, something has happened to your Pics! They are just little boxes again, and right clicking and choosing "view image" didn't work either.

StudeRich

[r1lark]

I can see all of them.....

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[doug]

Great tutorial. The pictures almost tell it all. Thanks.

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by r1lark

I can see all of them.....

Wow, what is emperorjordan? I thought it was a hacker site, with an aggressive name like that, so I have it blocked! That is what is trying to load, never heard of it. Are these not on PhotoBucket where everyone else's are?
Well unblocking the Emperor whoever he is, fixed it.

StudeRich

[sbca96]

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22842

I posted the above thread concerning this issue. AOL closed their FTP
last October, I needed a new place to store my pictures. Photobucket
and other free sites are blocked at most peoples Work, including mine,
and that was not an option. "Emperorjordan" is a domain of a friend of
mine, and he was nice enough to host all these Studebaker & GM brand
pictures even though he is a Ford guy! Nice of him huh?

Tom

[Kenmike2]

Very good job of presenting the process.
Question: I have worked on a number of R1's over the years and I have one in my shop right now. The return tube that vents all the way back to the tnk comes off the filter/sediment bowl that's plumbed into the fuel line just before the carb.
In your pictures it appears that the small brass 90 degree fitting stacked on the outlet side of the pump fitting is possibly the return fitting? If so is there a 0.040 orifice inside?
If it's the return it cannot be real effective in that location. You might want to investigate that part of your system. As vapor formation typically occurs right up on top of the engine where the heat soak is maximized.
REgards
Ken Michael

[Mike]

The return line comes from a "T" at the fuel pump on early Avanti's. They use a sealed fuel filter on top of the engine, and no sediment bowl. Later Avanti's use the sediment bowl, with its internal filter, and a restricted port for the return line.
I think all the "Jet Thrust" Larks & Hawks used the sediment bowl.
I agree, it's better to return fuel from the highest point in the engine compartment.
Although the Stude manual says the purpose of the return is to cool the pump, considering the .040" restriction, it doesn't flow enough to do that. Similar setups by other manufacturers are called "vapor diverters". An important function is to allow pressure to the carb to bleed off when the engine is shut off.
Tom measured the restriction in the "T" for the return, on his early setup. Hopefully, he can tell us the size and where, exactly, it was.
Mike M.