R1 fuel pump rebuild proceedure - w/pics!

[sbca96]

Updating picture locations so I can show my dad all that I do here.
You guys are supposed to message me when you find the red x's.

Here is the disassembly proceedure for the R1 fuel pump, I will add
text where it will be helpful, but the pictures should be sufficent.
The stock Studebaker fuel pump is similar, so most of this will apply
to that unit as well. If you have dialup, this might be a little bit
for you, hit the red X or the "Stop" button on your browser. If you
want to see a certain picture, right click it, and hit "show". I am
using a rebuild kit from Studebaker International, with a different
stem seal that is included in the "Cellar" kit :

Here is the pump, off the car, and cleaned :







Closeup of the plug holding the pivot pin in :



Put in a vice (carefully) pinched on the "nose", and the plug hit with
a center punch a few times to make a ridge. The material is pretty
soft, I found that a screwdriver would "grind" it away :



I used a flat blade screwdriver and tapped around the edge, creating a
bump to pry against :



Again with the flat blade, I chiseled (by hand) material away to gain
better access to the plug, and get it out from under the "stake" :



Plug popped out. The plug has a MUCH longer tip on it, the one in the
kit is very stubby, and will allow the pin to move back & forth more.
I think I will tap the hole and modify a screw to plug the hole :



Pin comes out with a little cleaning of the hole :





Once the pin is out, the arm comes off :



Down inside the housing :



Remove the screws from the bottom :



Crack it open :





Was happy to find the diaphram cracked (needs replacement) :





Assembly slides out :



Apart :



New di

[sbca96]

Modifications : I decided to go through with the tapping of the plug
hole and creation of a filler screw, I started with a brass 5/16 pan
head screw 1/2 inch long :



Turns out the pin is .250 diameter and the minor diameter of a 5/16
tap is .257, since its aluminum - you dont have to enlarge it. I ran
the tap down approx. .250 inch :



Here is the screw, turned the head down to .380 diameter, removed all
but the first .250 of thread, shortened to leave some pin movement :



Cleaned up the seat with the dremel and a file :





Comparison between new theaded plug and original soft plug :



Comparison to the stumpy plug supplied with the S.I. kit :



Proper installation of the stem seal :





My fuel pump is actually an R2 pump, which is why it has that boss for
a 1/8 pipe fitting. The R1 has roughly a 3/16 diameter vent hole. I
didnt want to drill the housing, so I decided to make a vent that wont
allow water or dirt to get in (that easily). This is what I did :

1/8 male NPT to 1/8 female NPT 90 degree fitting from Home Depot, and
a square 1/8 NPT pipe plug :



Drilled the hole deeper in the plug, and screwed the pipe plug into
the 90 degree angle fitting to find out which "flat" faced down to
drill a hole to the center hole :



Hole goes through :



90 degree angle screwed into the housing :



Plug (which 3/16 through hole) screwed in - you can see the hole is
facing down and in.



Decided to label it for the next owner :



Tom

[sbca96]

I could just be like a Chiltons manual, and say "installation is the
reverse of removal" - but how often is that REALLY true??

Here is the correct way the valve goes together. I had to look at my
OWN picture above to make sure I had done it right![:I]



The mushroom shaped deal gets pounded in until its flush with the top
of the hole (or bottom), you CAN go too far - so dont!



I used Loctite in the hole, just a little bit. You dont need much :





Wipe off the excess :



Hammer it in. I used a wood block, that way I didnt harm my table, or
have to remove the fittings I just redid :



Make sure you put this gasket on correctly. If you do it right, you
can blow through the assembly, if you put it on 180 degrees, then you
will "seal" the input, and no gas will get through. Thats bad.





I used a VERY light film of permatex on both sides of the gasket, I am
paraniod about fuel leaks. After looking at the way the diaphram goes
together, I realized that I COULDNT use permatex there. If you cant
use it both spots, its pointless to use it at all. If I had to do it
over, I would NOT have used the permatex on the fuel bowl :









Then tighten the screws, I read that one thing to do to insure that it
doesnt leak after, you take the parts and use sandpaper or emery paper
and place it on a glass surface, then run the part back & forth until
you get a smooth uniform shiny part. I didnt want to do that since it
has a nice rough texture to the sealing surface, which seemed like it
would seal better then a smooth surface. Food for thought.



You can see what oozed out - even though I used a little bit!



Here is the stem seal installed on the old higher pressure spring :





Fits into the housing :



This picture is deceiving, I first thought it would go together better
if I did it this way, but the instructions say to put the arm on first.
They are right, if you push the top of the shaft through the housing
and then stick the "fork

[N8N]

I'm at work, so I can't see your pics but just thought of something worth mentioning - when replacing the check valves, drive the mushroom-shaped metal bits in only far enough so that they are flush on the other side. I remember disassembling a "freshly rebuilt" R1/R2 pump once that wouldn't pump, only to find that the check valves were driven in all the way!

Also, you forgot the part about drilling out the seized screws holding it together, and also the scrubbing all the caked-on grease off with a toothbrush :/

As a side note, the screws holding the valve body to the bowl are the same on an R1/R2 pump as on a standard late V-8 pump. This is a Good Thing as I had to drill one out, and was unable to find a suitable replacement, even at the local fastener supply place that generally has everything.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[sbca96]

Luckily this pump "seemed" to have been rebuilt already, though the
kit used must have been a factory type. The housings were already
marked according to the shop manual - with a file. The screws inside
had the wear you would expect from someone trying to break them loose
with a blade not wide enough. It came apart rather easy. I bought a
set of stainless "allen" head screws from Home Depot which I got so I
would have them on hand IF I needed to replace one. Since it all
came apart so easy, I think I will pass on the new screws. I was going
to reuse the stock mushrooms, since they came out without damage. Do
you think it would be worth while to use some "Loctite" on them? I'm
also tempted to use a VERY light film of permatex on the gaskets when
I put it back together. I KNOW that the instructions say they will
seal just fine, but I have NEVER had anything I put together with No.2
leak on me ... and I HATE leaking fuel!![xx(]

Tom

[StudeRich]

Tom; I noticed something about this 3508S pump that you have, it has been modified to an R2 by drilling & tapping a hole in the top cover for a Supercharger pressure equalizer tube. So:
(1) You want to check to see that the vent in top has been securely plugged.
(2) Be very carefull of that fitting, I wouldn't even think about removing it, as the cover is weak there, since it has no thick boss to support it!
I have an original factory equipment used one, that is a 3509S and it is an R1, no boss or hole.
Thanks for the great pictorial of the proceedure, I love it!

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Mike]

The 3508S pump was made for an R2. It has the housing drilled and tapped for the boost reference fitting, (1/8", NPT). It looks like the atmospheric vent is cast and partially drilled. You can see the small hole inside the housing, next to the recess for the spring.
The 3509S pump was made for an R1. I converted one for my R2. The boss for the boost reference was there, on the inside of the housing. The Chrysler pump, and others, have the boss too. It's more often on the outside of the pump. Marine applications require that the vent go to the engine air filter; and that's why it's there on most pumps. You don't want gas fumes in the bilges!
I tapped the atmospheric passage; and put a set screw in it from the inside as part of the R1 to R2 conversion.
Mike M.

[sbca96]

The fitting threaded into the 1/8 NPT has a .094 hole through it, my
plan was to leave it in, and add a bent tube to it, curving downward.
Is the .094 hole sufficient for the vent? Its been on the car this
way (no tube - just upward facing hole for crap to get in) for as long
as I have had the car. Who knows when the R2 pump was installed.

Also, I assume that the "Cellar" seal is installed with the metal side
against the spring, not the rubber side. The metal is tapered, & so
is the pocket for the spring/seal.



Tom

[StudeRich]

Thanks Mike for the correction, I've seen so many of those Carters with the thick boss on the OUTSIDE, that I thought they were the only ones equipped to properly except the R2 fitting! Now that you mention it, I see in Tom's excellent Pics, the reinforced hole on the INSIDE of the housing top ! [^]

quote:Originally posted by Mike

The 3508S pump was made for an R2. It has the housing drilled and tapped for the boost reference fitting, (1/8", NPT). The boss for the boost reference was there, on the inside of the housing. The Chrysler pump, and others, have the boss too. It's more often on the outside of the pump. Mike M.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Mike]

The fitting you have will probably be OK; but stock was a little bigger. The R1 vent passage is almost 3/16". I plugged mine with a 10-32 set screw. The Chrysler pump's vent is almost 1/4".
The R2 boost reference line is 1/4". The fitting on the pump is a 90 degree elbow, 1/8" NPT to 1/4" flared pipe. It's "Brass 1/4F 1/8M 90DEG P 9074805" at Advance Auto, for $1.88 .
The spring goes against the broad surface washer, and compresses the rubber until the edge of the washer bottoms out in the housing. That limits how much the rubber is squashed. I think the flat washer lets it get pinched too far.
Mike M.

[sbca96]

OK .. so as I show the stem seal in the picture above, is how it sits
in the pocket at the top of the fuel pump. Rubber against the housing
and the steel formed washer against the spring (which makes sense, the
spring would eat the rubber away in no time).

Tom

[Mike]

Yes!
Mike M.

[N8N]

Now that I look at those pics, I need to take another look at the R1 fuel pump for my car. I don't know why it's leaking oil on top of the diaphragm; I was ASSuming that the stem seal sealed against the *bore* of the casting, but I now realize it's impossible for that to be the case. (I didn't disassemble it completely as I didn't feel motivated to knock the little aluminum plug out.)

Also, my old fuel pump that I put on that wasn't knocking... it's knocking just as loud as the R1 pump now. I am *this* close to just swapping to an electric pump, but I really don't have the $$ to buy a good one along with a regulator, nor the time to set everything up properly. Also I would still like to know WHY I am having this issue as I will be worried that something inside the engine is going to fly apart when I least expect it.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[sbca96]

You SURE its the fuel pump?? Have you tried isolating ALL accessories
by removing the belts and starting it? You will be amazed how quiet
a Studebaker becomes. Electric low pressure pumps are pretty cheap.
Maybe its a rocker, a lifter .. or ???

Tom

[N8N]

Positive. When I remove the fuel pump and just run the engine on the residual gas in the carb the noise goes away completely.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel