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No spark after changing coil,points,condenser,ballast resistor

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  • #31
    That copper strip from condenser to points should have a sleeve over it. Make sure it isn't touching the distributor case or breaker plate.
    D 'N Q RACE ENGINES

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    • #32
      Here are videos of how to do a few tests i'd be performing to get your car going.

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl0Z6kbyI0c

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e66tA43wsNo

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZwfPIkn30k

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      • #33
        Do you know where the ground wire is attached on this autolite breaker plate to the distributor? Any good illustrations showing ground wire? Thanks

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        • #34
          In the first pic, it looks like a metal washer is retaining the vacuum advance link arm to the breaker plate. It also looks like it is hitting the contact points effectively shorting them to ground. That retainer is a nylon piece originally.
          Bez Auto Alchemy
          573-318-8948
          http://bezautoalchemy.com


          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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          • #35
            HELP!!!!
            I am dealing with a dead in the driveway 1954 Studebaker 2 dr Hardtop Commander w/ V8 - auto trans. The issue seems to be the resistance wire. There is no spark coming from the distributor or coil - for I have checked. Is there a way that the resistance wire can be replaced and if so, where can I buy it? Can I replace it? What exactly does it do? I bought this car knowing it didn't run... Once it arrived, I looked it over and two things were evident - the ignition switch was bad ( now replaced with the correct one) and the resistance wire had been cut in half under the hood. I have power to all the lights and accessories and the car turns over. It just will not start or give any sign of life that it wants to start. I tried to solder the wire back together - but still nothing. My battery is brand new. Ordered new points, condenser, plug wires, coil - they arrive on Friday, Aug 5-21. I am leaving nothing to chance - but I still greatly suspect the resistance wire is the main culprit. I DO NOT want to replace the distributor with an HEI system. I am very interested in how members here have dealt with this same issue and what they did to remedy it.
            This Studebaker Coupe is an all-original survivor with 41,900 miles showing on the odometer. It was in the possession of a Studebaker collector and he died from heart surgery and the family auctioned off this collection. Overall, it isn't in too bad of shape - just needs loads of TLC after sitting around since 1977 in a barn. A long nap like that has certainly made itself evident from the cobwebs, dust, grime, faded ELKO gray finish, dirty original Red and Gray interior, and dried-out weather seals, plus the brittle crumbly fraying wiring.

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            • #36
              Unless the car has been modified, there is no resistance wire. There should be an ordinary wire that sends 6v from the ignition switch to the - terminal of the coil. Test that with a light. Or for first-start attempt just run a wire from the neg terminal of the battery to the neg terminal of the coil. The pos terminal of the coil should be wired to the distributor and within that to the points. When the points are closed they must provide a ground so power will flow through the coil. MANY times with long sitting the points have oxidized over and will not conduct. File or sand them vigorously so that they conduct.

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              • #37
                LA West see it's your first post....this is an old 3 page thread....you may do better starting a new thread esp that you're new and the car has sat the folks here go crazy to help guys like you!

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