Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage:
See more
See less

53 V/8 vs 63

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cool/Heat: 53 V/8 vs 63

    Just thinking out loud here. (I think most of you call it planning. Starting to move toward getting the R1 in my 53 coupe. Been reading the cooling issues. I have 3 radiators from 53's. None are alike. One appears to be a XC, if that was possible back then? Has quadzillion cooling fins. The capacity of the Avanti and the 53 C, cooling system is the same. The only reason I can see for the 53 style radiator not cooling as well is the operating pressure? Does this make sense? As far as the aluminum radiator goes, I am of the opinion, given the same setup, a copper would cool better? Anyway, I am setting up my engine on a test stand and I want to determine my radiator without sticking a half dozen in my car. So, speak your piece here and help me. Do you think I can get a good test on a stand?

  • #2
    This is My experience on the subject: I installed a rebuilt R1 in a '55 Speedster years back....the R1 block was boiled out.....the original Speedster radiator was recored....every else in good shape.
    In HOT July -August weather, That Speedster radiator could NOT keep up with rising temps in the R1. And I always thought that was due to the 30 additional cubic inches over the stock Speedster engine, and, of course, the much higher compression ratio. (I ran the stock 259 a short while after I had the radiator recored and before I installed the R1...and it cooled the 259 just fine. This particular Speedster is still 'out there' somewhere with that same R1 engine....Serial # 7167047.
    PS...... If anything, the Speedster radiator would have slightly additional capacity over Your '53 Commander radiator, as the upper tank appears to be larger on the '55.


    • #3
      More power = more heat to be carried away. You may need to consider an electric fan if the current radiator can't handle the job.
      Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.


      • #4
        A copper radiator would cool better than an aluminum one IF all other factors were the same. Most modern radiators have far more cooling fins per inch than the original copper ones thus they DO cool better than the originals. Avanti radiators were lower than the cylinder heads, thus they had the surge tanks with the filler on it to keep the coolant level full in the engine. It's a good idea to have the overflow setup which helps keep the system purged of air. Air won't cool an engine as well as fluid!
        Bez Auto Alchemy

        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln


        • #5
          >>If<< the issue is just temp climbs when idling I'd say there is likely not enough flow, either of coolant, or air thru the radiator. Idling engines don't generate a lot of heat, but the water pump flow and fan flow are TINY fractions of flow at 3000 engine rpm. Engineering pump affinity laws suggest something along the lines of (3000/700)^3, or less than 2%.
          Attached is an image from the 1955 SAE Pontiac V8 paper that suggests it is not so dire.

          A recent post over on H.A.M.B. showed the results of running without a radiator shroud.
          Before "it would not hold a shop rag at the top of the radiator at slow idle....."
          After creatively using fabric, polyester resin, and fiberglass to make a custom shroud the situation improved, a lot.

          I'm thinking I need to remember to try that rag test along with thermally mapping the entire radiator when searching for cooling problems.
          Attached Files