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Epoxy Primer

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  • Paint: Epoxy Primer

    What kind of luck have you been getting with Epoxy Primers, and how long can you wait before topcoat????

    I'm gonna blast this truck and hit it with the Epoxy primer and wait before painting....

    primarily to do body work and bomb around in it first.....

  • #2
    The primer needs to be dry & then sanded before the color coat is applied. Whatever brand paint you are using stay with that brands material throughout the process. All paint manufacturers recommend that you stay within that (avoid "cocktailing") parameter. If you plan to use a sealer before the color coat, then that is another thing. Follow the manufacturers recommendations on the label. Epoxy primers are great when used properly offering good fill qualities. Make sure the gun you use is cleaned completely right after use or the epoxy will harden inside all the guns passages & you'll have a pretty useless piece of aluminum in the toolbox.
    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
    64 Zip Van
    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
    66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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    • #3
      Painter's Supply, a large PPG vendor here in Denver gave me my action plan.

      In simple terms it was strip to bare metal, coat with Shopline epoxy as soon as possible to seal the surface from air/moister and stop. Within 3 days follow with primer surfacer from their Deltron line for a chemical bond. Within 5 days topcoat with more primer surfacer or another coat of epoxy. Then within 3 days max and 24 hours ideal follow with a Deltron color and within 24 hours follow with a Concept clear coat..... All for insuring a chemical bond. Between coats block sand and back fill with Bondo or putty as needed.

      They emphasized that any delays beyond the recommended windows require sanding for a mechanical bond. I was surprised that they had no problem in mixing the Shopline primers with Deltron color etc. The Deltron colors are more pricey than Shopline but are reduced 1.5 :1 with a catalytic reducer rather than 1:1 for for Shopline with a plain reducer. The Deltron colors flowed great and I will use Deltron in the future over Shopline for color....

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      • #4
        I had a restoration shop for 10 years and worked in several before that. Epoxy primers are great. After media blasting, shoot several coats of epoxy to prevent the surface from rusting or getting contaminates on it. The epoxy, (any brand) will seal the metal from moisture unlike other types of primers. Body work can be done after the epoxy with just a scuffing to give the surface some bite. I have had parts epoxied for years and when needed, scuffed them with a light sandpaper or Scotch Bright and continued with the process. I have not followed manufactures specs and used one line of materials exclusively and have had no problems. Most, if not all epoxy primer can be further reduced and used as a sealer prior to paint. I have always tried to use minimum wait times once I start to do final paint, allowing the different coats to mate with the prior coats as much as possible and eliminating the possibility of a contaminate finding it's way onto the surface between coats. I know some painters like to use one manufacturer's product from start to finish and that's OK too. I often did that, but if I had primer from brand X, sealer from brand Y and paint from brand Z, I would use it as long as it was a combatable type product. Maybe it's a CASO thing.
        sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
        1950 Champion Convertible
        1950 Champion 4Dr
        1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
        1957 Thunderbird

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        • #5
          Epoxy Primer

          I've used sand blasting on the heavier pieces. Before I started, I checked out the local shops and found one I could trust. I've used the same shop now for three or four projects. After blasting I do the body work. Then lay on the prime coat. I've used epoxy primers and epoxy colored high build middle coats. Epoxy is not easy to sand, but I like the finished results. The red truck has been on the road since '06 with no problems.
          Good luck with your project.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by jeds55; 10-24-2013, 02:21 PM.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Depending on the brand of epoxy that you use you have on average 24-72 hrs to paint over epoxy without sanding or scuffing. You can let the stuff set for months and just scuff with a red scuff pad recoat with epoxy and paint. The only way to go on bare metal.

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            • #7
              Here is the plan for my car. I am not saying it is the best plan, but it is my plan. After blasting I am going to apply 2 coats of SPI epoxy. After about 3 days I am going to apply a coat of a PPG 2K urethane primer. The car body will then go into storage in the back of the shop while I disassemble the frame, paint it and put it back together. Once the frame is done, I will put the body back on and start block sanding to discover the spots that need filler. When a spot needs filler, I'll sand away all the 2K primer and apply filler directly to the epoxy. Once all the filler work and block sanding is done, another coat of PPG 2K primer. Then wet sand and apply PPG Deltron base. Finally, SPI Universal clear, color sand and buff.

              I am applying the 2K over the epoxy before the body goes into storage so it will be easy to sand when I get back to the body.
              Wayne
              "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

              sigpic‚Äč

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              • #8
                If your using SPI epoxy just give it a good heavy coat or three of epoxy put it away and block sand your epoxy when you take it back out. SpI fills great and block sands just as good as 2k even a couple days later.A lot of guys have gone to nothing but blocked Spi epoxy and no longer use the 2k at all.

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                • #9
                  Wayne,

                  I see you plan to use SPI epoxy primer. I am working on my first paint job so have very little experience but I am hooked on their epoxy primer. It has a high gloss and the dings and dents stand out easily. Your plan sounds pretty good to me.

                  Charlie D.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks! I'm going to pull the rear fenders, bed, grille and chrome this week.
                    it's going to be a frame on to start with, then later off....
                    Backwards, I know.....

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