Engine: Is this the oil pressure relief valve?

[jff]

I'd like to check the oil pressure relief valve; I'm seeing low pressure and according to the shop manual that's one of the possibilities. Unfortunately I couldn't find an illustration of where the valve is located on a 6cyl engine. I found one likely-looking candidate but I don't want to go pulling things out without knowing what I'm doing.

Is this the right location? http://i.imgur.com/5zhRAxu.jpg

I'm seeing about 10 psi at hot idle and 15-20ish when going 40, which is low enough that I want to investigate.

[Ron Dame]

No, sorry, that's just a galley plug.Move towards the front of the engine, same side, about the same plane, to just behind the timing gear plate. I don't recall the exact size, but it's about 15/16" hex plug

[jff]

No, sorry, that's just a galley plug.Move towards the front of the engine, same side, about the same plane, to just behind the timing gear plate. I don't recall the exact size, but it's about 15/16" hex plug

It's possible to get it out without removing any other parts, right?

[StudeRich]

Yes it is if you have good tools, maybe a "U" Joint, Extension, Ratchet and Socket. It helps to be double jointed!
I have not done a 6 in years, but I remember that the Engine Mount and Fuel Pump are very close and partly in the way.

Be careful not to drop and lose the Copper and asbestos ring under the Big Nut that holds the regulator piston and spring in there. The complete package 3 Pcs. including Gasket (Ring) are available new.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Your Studebaker Bible (the service manual) has all the instructions for this......

The piston in the bore should be removed and cleaned annually.
"If" you perform this service regularly, the piston should slide in and out easily.

"If" your oil pressure regulator piston has not been serviced in a long time, it is possible that is has gotten stuck.
Stuck in whatever position it was when it got stuck.

The service manual suggests removing the piston with a (IIRC) #6 number drill.
(A pita to get out if stuck).
The piston is hardened so the drill bit just 'bites' into the hollow end of the piston, and you can slide it out by hand.

Then, you can use a 1/2" drill bit (by hand) to clean out the piston bore.
Just screw the drill bit in and slide it out to remove any sludge, or sticky varnish.

Be sure to install the piston with the hollow end pointing out.

All Studebaker owners should know this procedure by heart, and perform the cleaning ritual regularly.

I have had them pop out easily, and have also spent 4 hours bent over a fender fiddling to get one loose.

You decide which you would rather do......
HTIH
Jeff

[jff]

Yes it is if you have good tools, maybe a "U" Joint, Extension, Ratchet and Socket. It helps to be double jointed!
I have not done a 6 in years, but I remember that the Engine Mount and Fuel Pump are very close and partly in the way.

Be careful not to drop and lose the Copper and asbestos ring under the Big Nut that holds the regulator piston and spring in there. The complete package 3 Pcs. including Gasket (Ring) are available new.

Thanks, I'll see if I can locate the correct spot, I've got all those tools except the u-joint which I should get anyway! I'd be happy replacing the parts just to be safe; where can I buy the package?

[Ron Dame]

I'll change my location description slightly...it is between the engine mount and the timing plate, but somewhat below the bottom of the engine mount. I simply could not get a good angle to get a photo.

[StudeRich]

Thanks, I'll see if I can locate the correct spot, I've got all those tools except the u-joint which I should get anyway! I'd be happy replacing the parts just to be safe; where can I buy the package?

As with all Studebaker Parts, it rarely works to go to an Auto Parts Store and have them ask what Country and or what Automotive Giant Corp. made the Studebaker.

Just go to a Studebaker Vendor at: http://studebakervendors.com

[Ron Dame]

Please correct me if I am wrong, I've never had the asbestos ring, but I do not see why just the copper ring is not enough to seal the assembly, and it's one of the few places my engine does not leak. So is the asbestos ring necessary? What is it's function?

[oilnsteel]

There is no separate asbestos ring. The copper gasket is made with an asbestos or other mineral core, and is sometimes visible as a white line on one face of the gasket. Inhalation of asbestos dust may harm some people, therefore do not place the gasket in a blender or insert in nose.
JT

[Ron Dame]

That makes sense. OTOH, I am using a plain flat copper washer, with no leaks...from there anyway.

[StudeRich]

Quote Post #4: "Be careful not to drop and lose the Copper and asbestos ring under the Big Nut."

This is just ONE Asbestos Filled Copper Gasket (Ring) on original installations only and with NOS parts only.
It can be replaced with a Copper Gasket, but the thicker it is the LESS the Oil Pressure will be, do not use TWO!