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  • Rear Axle: 2R5 rear end confusion

    Hello fellows and ladies. I have a '51 2R5 with a stump puller rear end. Build sheet says 4.89. The latest issue of turning wheels has the first article i've read about a truck since i joined a couple years ago. It was an interesting article. Timken, dana, 44, 4.11, all sorts of stuff I'm having trouble keeping track of! Anyway, I'd like a little less stump pulling and a little more driving, so i'm trying to figure out who made the rear end, and if parts are available. I'd like to keep everything as it is - except the ring and pinion, so it all looks like it did when i pulled it out of the barn. Anyway, there's a 44 cast in the lower right flange. There's a little tag under one of the rear cover bolts that has a 44/9 and a W as raised letters. There's a patent number on it i looked up, and it was a patent for a rear end in 1932... Anyway, who's rear end is this? The 44 matches the description in my parts manual, the 44/9 works out to be the rear end ratio (4.88888888888 which rounds to 4.89) and I don't know what the W is - other than the big letter Jimmy Durante was pointing to... Am I out of luck with finding a different gear set? is the 44 from Dana, and parts are readily available at speed shops? I don't know why i'm having such trouble with this as I've managed to figure out most everything else on this truck. Any help is greatly appreciated, and if I can reciprocate with any knowledge gained i'll be happy to post it here. I read posts here quite often. I searched this place high and low and couldn't find a post related to identifying the manufacturer of the rear end in this truck.

    happy motoring! IDYSD is coming up quickly!

    chrisClick image for larger version

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  • #2
    Chris, I sent you a pm "upper right corner in blue"
    Joseph R. Zeiger

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    • #3
      Have you considered putting an overdrive in the truck?
      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

      17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
      10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
      56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
      60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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      • #4
        Here is all you will ever need to know about Rear Axles, Parts and Service.

        http://www.ringpinion.com/
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          Jerry Kurtz in Dover, PA can supply you with an overdrive transmission that will bolt in, still have the floor shift. You'll have to have the driveshaft shortened, add a lock-out cable with handle, and so some simple wiring, but the result will give you a truck that will still start off smoothly and be able to go 60-65 mph. It's probably less expensive than swapping the rear axle pieces, especially if a new set of bearings is installed in the rear axle.
          Gary Ash
          Dartmouth, Mass.

          '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
          ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
          '48 M5
          '65 Wagonaire Commander
          '63 Wagonaire Standard
          web site at http://www.studegarage.com

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          • #6
            Wow, so many replies so quickly, thank you. Ok, overdrive is what i read about first. Low is too low to start off from. by the time you double clutch (straight cut gears, no synchros, 4 on the floor) you've come to a stop before you've had a chance to put it in first. If there's any forward motion whatsoever, first is also out of the question, so it's really a two speed, 2nd and 3rd. Would this truck have come with an overdrive option? I was hoping rear end would be easiest and cheapest, and it wouldn't be noticeable from the outside that something was different other than what had come originally. We've got Connecticut Driveshaft, who can do that work, that's the easy part. I'll poke around to see if I can find Kurtz and look down that avenue, but my hope is to find something to do with the rear end... speaking of which, does anybody know who made it ?
            c

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            • #7
              Is the truck a four speed or three speed? If it is a straight four speed, it might have been special ordered with that low a rear end. With a four speed it would probably have come standard with something like a 4.27. A three speed/OD can standard with that low a rear because that little Champion needs all the help it can get - but my father's '53 V8 coupe has a 4.56 rear in it with a 3sp/OD.

              The Dana 44 is pretty common and I believe you get get gear sets from over 5.0 down to below 3.0. I have read people warning others that you cannot go to far down the number trail with the Champion engine or you will be shifting all the time to keep a constant speed. My Lark has a 4.10 and you always need to kick it out of OD on even the most modest of hills...

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              • #8
                I am sorry, I guess I forgot to mention in my Post #4 that of course it is a Dana Spicer, I thought you knew that a Model 44 is a very common Dana Axle as used in Chev./GMC Trucks, Jeeps, Packards, Hudsons, Nashes, Studebaker Cars etc.

                If you check the Website I posted the link to; Randy's, he has all the Ring and Pinions, Limited Slip options, Carriers and everything, this is where the 4X4 Shops go for their Jeep etc. Parts. Most are very familiar with the Danas.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  The truck is a four speed, T9, ordered that way, with the low rear gears, also ordered that way. apparently they wanted a truck that could keep up with their tractor... How can I be certain if it is a Dana... if so, i see dana gears on places like summit racing, and other places, i guess the dana 44 was pretty popular. Can i be certain it is a Dana? does the 44 raised numbers in the casting mean that? because if it's just ring and pinion, i can do those, and keep my (silly) tapered axles... I rebuilt the motor, and it seems to have lots (ok, relatively speaking...) of power, and slightly taller gears would be nice. 40-45 is a nice speed, but i'd like to be able to go a little farther in a little less time, possibly without hearing that engine wound up that tight the entire time we're driving. knowing low is so low it's almost useless, and first is just about that low also, being able to use those two gears more seems the motor shouldn't have too much trouble.. am i all wet?
                  c

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                  • #10
                    ah, studerich, i didn't see your post, that blue looked like an ad and i skipped right over it! Ok then, it's a dana spicer, perfect! I know where I can go now! Thank you very much!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by c locke View Post
                      ah, studerich, i didn't see your post, that blue looked like an ad and i skipped right over it! Ok then, it's a dana spicer, perfect! I know where I can go now! Thank you very much!
                      Just to be sure you know, the Dana 44 has two different carriers. One for 3.90 and higher numbers and one for numbers lower than 3.90. Going below 3.90 will require another carrier. The other issue is axle spline number. Your's is probably 19 spline. I bring this up so you can go to your local 4X4 folks and talk to them about what you need to meet your requirements.

                      If it's just R&P the cost is about $150 so go local and avail yourself of their knowledge.

                      Bob

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                      • #12
                        Well after continued reading, both here and elsewhere, I think i'll get an R&P set, but I didn't need much taller gears. I was going to go to Randy's site and enter some numbers in the calculator. I'll put on a temporary tach so I can see at what speed the motor is spinning (unless someone here knows what a wound up tight little champion spins at...) and i'd just like to get maybe 15 more miles per hour. That shouldn't tax the motor too much. Driving at 45 now the motor is spinnin' pretty darn fast. i wouldn't mind having to shift at a hill, that's what the gears are for. I wouldn't want to expect to start out every time in low, so i wouldn't think 3.9 is anywhere near where I need. I was thinking mid 4's (not knowing what ratios are available) but that's what the calculator on Randy's site is for. figuring out what speed, what rpm... just for 15 mph. or so. It would be nice to be able to keep up with traffic on the back roads!

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                        • #13
                          I would think a 4:09 or 4:27 should be good with the six.
                          Originally posted by c locke View Post
                          Well after continued reading, both here and elsewhere, I think i'll get an R&P set, but I didn't need much taller gears. I was going to go to Randy's site and enter some numbers in the calculator. I'll put on a temporary tach so I can see at what speed the motor is spinning (unless someone here knows what a wound up tight little champion spins at...) and i'd just like to get maybe 15 more miles per hour. That shouldn't tax the motor too much. Driving at 45 now the motor is spinnin' pretty darn fast. i wouldn't mind having to shift at a hill, that's what the gears are for. I wouldn't want to expect to start out every time in low, so i wouldn't think 3.9 is anywhere near where I need. I was thinking mid 4's (not knowing what ratios are available) but that's what the calculator on Randy's site is for. figuring out what speed, what rpm... just for 15 mph. or so. It would be nice to be able to keep up with traffic on the back roads!
                          Joseph R. Zeiger

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                          • #14
                            so... now i'm reading more about putting things together.

                            http://www.shopjeepparts.com/ring-pi...ep-p-6134.html

                            my book says it's a 10 spline, this is a 4:27 like you said Joe. now do i need to start looking for shims and spacers and bearings and seals? it isn't simple is it...

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                            • #15
                              Sweetolbob... I came back here because I remembered you writing something... and things just went clunk down in the shop. my old 4.89 rear end was 10 spline... my new 3.73 diff is 19 spline... my tapered axles are 10 spline... see the problem? the question of the hour, is there a 19 spline tapered axle that'll fit in the my rear end? (boy that doesn't sound good...) I have no way of looking up other rear axles to determine if they have the same dimensions that'll fit my rear end... darn darn darn...

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