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  • Engine: Need Advice and/or opinions on stuck valves

    I have 4 stuck valves on my 289. Stuck in open, spring compressed position. Any advise on how I might be able to free then up without removing heads? Thanks Jim

  • #2
    Remove rocker arms.
    Spray valve stems with PB Blaster
    Next day, strike valve tips solidly with a brass hammer or hold a brass drift in line with the valve stem and strike with a 2# hammer.
    If they don't release first time, repeat process until they do.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    • #3
      Thasnks Jack. My friend Jerry Blount said the same thing. Just couldn't remember.

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      • #4
        Just curious, do you use any gasoline additives? I know that several friends with Ford Y Blocks that used and maybe abuse lead substitutes and had stuck valves after letting the engine set for a week or so. It took a tear down to finally correct the problem, and no more additives were used. as an added bonus.
        Originally posted by Farrier1951 View Post
        I have 4 stuck valves on my 289. Stuck in open, spring compressed position. Any advise on how I might be able to free then up without removing heads? Thanks Jim
        sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
        1950 Champion Convertible
        1950 Champion 4Dr
        1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
        1957 Thunderbird

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        • #5
          Actually it is Moisture getting into the engine and long sitting that usually rusts the Steel Valve Stem to the Cast Iron Valve Guides on open valves, with no lubrication.

          If you sealed the exhaust Header openings and the Carb. opening before storage you would have a better chance of a turning engine years later...(most times).
          If it has been parked in a field and left for years unprotected, little to NO chance.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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          • #6
            I haven't owned the engine or the car for that matter when it ran. I brought it home from California last summer and the engine was stuck. It rotates now so making some headway. So I cant say what if any additives may have been used.

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            • #7
              Well Rich this one was sitting for a while, not sure how long, without a carburetor. It was a California car so I am hopeful.

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              • #8
                In doing this job remove the spark plugs (I assume you already have) and assure the cam position with the stuck valve is TDC follow your firing order around. As said in previous, reach in through the sparkplug hole with a drift, brass or hardwood and tap on the edge of the valve until it reseats. Turn the engine over by hand until that valve is pushed up if it stays up repeat the process and relocate TDC. This process could take 1-3 days to complete it is not east but doable, also lubricate the valve stem as required. I have done this on several engines and it is time consuming. Do not over strike the valve as it may cause damage, steady gentle taps. Best of luck Dave

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                • #9
                  Wow. Dave I had to read your post three times. Reach in through the spark plug hole and tap on the edge of the valve? Really? I'll be doggone, never would have thought of that. Not pulling my leg......right? Jim

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                  • #10
                    There's something to keep in mind once you get the valves freed up, and I had this happen on the 289 in my '55. You should be able to press down on the valve with the spring, and it should compress, and return to its original position. If it doesn't, either the valve or guide is still corroded, or the valve stem itself is a few thousandths out of tolerance, and is bent. The latter requires removing the head and replacing the valve or valves. When I got mine out, the "bend" in the middle couldn't be seen, but at the same time, when it was operated inside the guide, it would stick in the valve guide, which the replacement valve didn't do.
                    1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                    1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                    1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                    1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Farrier1951 View Post
                      Wow. Dave I had to read your post three times. Reach in through the spark plug hole and tap on the edge of the valve? Really? I'll be doggone, never would have thought of that. Not pulling my leg......right? Jim
                      I feel taken back a fiew notches I went and looked at a V8 head and my aformentioned ways and means will not work, it would only apply to a flat head. I should have looked firstly. Sorry for the detailed misinformation. Hope you get the valves freed up. Dave

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                      • #12
                        Flathead or overhead makes no difference, if you strike the valve sideways you're either going to bend or break the valve stem! only tap on the end of the valve stem and with enough lube on it and time to let it soak it'll usually come loose.

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                        • #13
                          I freed up 4 stuck valves in a 259 earlier this year. Just took off the valve covers, found the stuck ones, and tapped on the valve spring retainer with a hammer and a drift, as needed. Sprayed lots of Liquid Wrench, too. The first one (#1 exhaust) was the hardest; the rest came pretty easy. I didn't take off any rocker arms. I did try to make all my hammer blows along the axis of the valves.
                          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                          • #14
                            Well folks to update: Took in all the advise offered and managed to free up 3 of the 4 stuck valves. One however on the drivers side seems almost welded in place. It even sounds different than the other three when tapped with brass hammer. Anyway, the push rod for the still frozen valve is also bent to resemble the big slow "S" in the Studebaker logo. I am now thinking I had better just pull the head and get that valve out of there. And I guess it will let me get a good look at the cylinders on that side too. What do you think? Should I just go ahead at this point and pull both heads to do a good inspection? Also I have two good heads on the 62 engine I have. Would they be a straight swap? Thanks for all the valuable advise guys I really do appreciate it. And Jerry Blount thanks for the push rods. Looks like I will need at least one of them. Thank you one and all. Jim

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Farrier1951 View Post
                              Thasnks Jack. My friend Jerry Blount said the same thing. Just couldn't remember.
                              Just keep soaking the valve stem with Kriol/PB Blaster/MMO/Deep Creep etc. and gentle but firm blows with a brass hammer/drift or dead blow hammer directly down on the valve stem tip at the correct angle.

                              I had a 62 Hawk that had set for years with the same prob. on 4 or 5 valves and they finally freed up. When free, put a BIG dose of Chevron Techron in the tank and drive it good & hard.

                              Worked for me!

                              Good luck & report back please
                              1996 Impala SS
                              1967 Jag XKE FHC
                              1963 Avanti R2
                              1963 Avanti R1
                              1956 Packard Patrician
                              1948 Jag Mk IV DHC
                              1909 Hupmobile Model 20

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