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No starting when warm, intermittently

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  • #16
    Tractor Supply Stores have the heavy gauge cables at fair pricing. jimmijim
    sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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    • #17
      Originally posted by jimmijim8 View Post
      Tractor Supply Stores have the heavy gauge cables at fair pricing. jimmijim
      Good point, I hadn't thought of our local TSC. But its a little late now, I was so impressed with the difference they made in the 56J, I later also bought them for the two GTs. However, they didn't do anything noticeable for the GTs. But I now have fresh cables on everything, and some of them were ridiculously old and dilapidated.

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      • #18
        Some voltage drop measurements across various points of the electrical circuit while starting (or trying to start) would probably make it VERY clear which cable is undersized or deteriorated, which connection(s) have too much resistance and need cleaning, etc, etc. And by the same token, when actually cranking, which parts do NOT need replacing.

        Maybe 10 minutes of testing with a key turning helper using a basic multimeter with a DC scale to read numbers like 0.1 volt.

        Nice chart with useful test points and max allowable voltage drops here -
        http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/chstsycivote.html

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        • #19
          Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
          Before you spend your money on a new switch, you can actually test the old one. get a 12 volt light bulb with wires and alligator clips on the wires. When the car will not turn over, hook the wires to the small stud on the solenoid that goes to the ignition switch and see if the solenoid is actually getting powered by the switch.

          You can leave the wires hooked up and put the light in the passenger compartment. That way you can check the switch every time you use it. Over time, you will know if the ignition switch is bad or not. Both smart and CASO.
          That is a CASO solution, but generally when this has happened, I'm in traffic, other than the time I had stopped and then restarted. That would have been an ideal time to use your solution. Two, it sounds trivial, and to others an excuse, but I don't have spare wires and alligator clips and time to thread said items through the firewall to attach to a bulb to watch. Lots of emoticons to show I'm not intending to be snippy. Third, I would do something like this if I was able to replicate the event. So far, I can drive around a bit before it happens. I still plan to futz with the wires today and clean things up throughout. I haven't ordered the switch yet.

          On the other hand, it is a 53 year old switch.

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          • #20
            That's a helpful chart Dan, thanks. I don't have a multimeter with clips, but that might still be worth experimenting with.

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            • #21
              Post #4, Joe Hall got it right about about clean and tight.
              I would add:
              - take apart all connections one at a time. Not just the battery terminals. Any and all electrical connections need attention.
              -CLEAN, bright shiny metal, no paint, rust, grease, oil or crud
              -THEN tighten
              Since your car is 12 volt, 00 [2/0] cable is a little [OK! A LOT!] over kill. #1/0 or #2/0 is minimum size for a 6 volt system.
              #4 or #2 cable would be plenty big enough AND easier to find. #2 is bigger and would be better than #4.
              South Lompoc Studebaker

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