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2 bolt valve covers on 4 bolt heads

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  • Engine: 2 bolt valve covers on 4 bolt heads

    My valve cover gaskets were leaking so I decided to go ahead and replace the flaking valve covers. I purchased some finned Studebaker valve covers from SI and when they got here I found they only came as 2 bolt. Is it possible to make it so I can use them? I pulled the original valve cover off to see how the studs were. I didn't want to take them off in case they held the rocker arm somehow. Can they be removed? Do I need to put a bolt there? Will it mess up the torque of the bolts? The valve lash? I guess the factory style grommets won't work in the finned valve covers.

  • #2
    You can remove the stud bolts and replace them with regular bolts. Yes, they hold down the rocker assembly. Torque the new bolts and you should be just fine.

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    • #3
      You can do what Matthew said or you could drill two more holes in the valve covers, your choice really.

      Joe

      Originally posted by mbstude View Post
      You can remove the stud bolts and replace them with regular bolts. Yes, they hold down the rocker assembly. Torque the new bolts and you should be just fine.
      sigpic

      1962 Daytona
      1964 Cruiser
      And a few others

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      • #4
        Personally I would do what Matthew said. If you drill for the other 2 bolts then, unless you have use of a machine shop, the 2 inside bolts will not have the "flat" machined where the nut will snug against the cover. To me that would look ugly.
        59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
        60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
        61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
        62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
        62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
        62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
        63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
        63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
        64 Zip Van
        66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
        66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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        • #5
          I considered that

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          • #6
            Think I'll be hitting the hardware store tomorrow for some bolts and digging out my shop manual.

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            • #7
              Make sure you get the right grade of bolts, so the torque settings and stretch properties are the same as the original ones.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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              • #8
                You could get by with grade 5 bolts for those, but it would only be a matter of a few cents to use grade 8. Go 8 if they have them.
                sals54

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                • #9
                  Sal is correct..

                  The stand hold down isn't a huge deal like the head bolt is. Actually they are "cap" screws. Anyway, the head bolt does 95% percent of the "holding" of the rocker stand to the head.
                  While I don't recall the exact torque requirement, it isn't that high for these fasteners, either grade will work just fine.

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    The "two-bolt" vs "four-bolt" valve cover change is an excellent "textbook" example of how those engaged in manufacturing, any product, should always be searching for ways to increase "profitability" without compromising "quality." That is not always an easy feat, but in this case, I think it worked as a benefit for all involved.

                    A good while ago, we engaged in a thread titled "Over-built vs under-built"...and the first four-bolt valves covers were certainly an example of over-built. I don't know exactly which year the change was made, it did not save much in the way of rocker arm assembly, but as far as the valve cover assembly, it instantly saved 50% in rubber seals, washers, and nuts. Then factor in assembly labor, and you see how the benefits compound. On each engine, you have also eliminated four possible oil leak sources.

                    Unlike how makers of candy bars, cereal, detergent, etc., short-change their customers by downsizing the candy, the box, or amount of product in the box...and charge the same (or more) ...this little change is how it should be done. Eliminating "over-built" for "appropriately-built" to the benefit of maker and consumer.
                    John Clary
                    Greer, SC

                    SDC member since 1975

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                    • #11
                      Or you could simply take out the two inner rocker arm stand cap screws, clamp them in a vise, and saw off the the upper stud portion with a hacksaw. Clean off any chips, and put them back. Saves hunting for generic cap screws of the same length and thread length.
                      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                      • #12
                        JMHO, but the four-bolt covers are much preferable. They're twice as well built, have internal reinforcing ribs, have twice the hold down bolts and thus much less likely to leak. Any conversions I do would go the other way.

                        jack vines
                        PackardV8

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                        • #13
                          Jack, You're right on the stamped valve covers fer sher, but I think with the aluminium (as the English say) covers that Doc is trading up to, the two bolts will work pretty well as long as they are not over-torqued.
                          sals54

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by gordr View Post
                            Or you could simply take out the two inner rocker arm stand cap screws, clamp them in a vise, and saw off the the upper stud portion with a hacksaw. Clean off any chips, and put them back. Saves hunting for generic cap screws of the same length and thread length.
                            This I also considered but decided to keep in case I have the originals powder coated and put back on.

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                            • #15
                              The replacement cap screws, (bolts) are common hardware store items. Easy to find, so do not cut your original bolts. As you said, you may want to use them again later. I personally like the 50s style 4 bolt covers when chromed. They have a great look. Clean and smooth.
                              sals54

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