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  • #16
    Hmmmmm, That gives me a few things to think about. I too like to tinker and when I modify, I always like to keep it in stealth mode. Make some improvements yet no one will know it's not original. One project I definitely will do is modifying 6 volt LED bulbs for use in the dash, etc. I like the dash to LIGHT up ! I've emailed several online LED sellers and NONE of them have any 6 volt let alone positive ground bulbs. I'll keep looking.

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    • #17
      It's my understanding that bulbs don't know the difference between positive or negative ground. The juice will go thru either way.

      My '54 LC was converted to 12-v negative ground and, while I could be wrong (I wasn't the one who converted it) except for the ammeter and battery cables, I think all the wires stayed in the same place.

      Again, I could be mistaken, but I've heard the theory is that electrons actually flow from neg to pos, not the other way around, as you might think. So at one time, many manufacturers used pos ground. Then, I think, they discovered that it didn't make much difference WHICH WAY they flowed, as long as they flowed. So they changed it.

      John

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Johnnywiffer View Post
        It's my understanding that bulbs don't know the difference between positive or negative ground. The juice will go thru either way.

        LEDs Lights care, and will only light up one way, since they are a diode (Light Emitting Diode).

        But the good news is it isn't hard to make your own LED bulbs. Just some LEDs and a resistor to limit the current to about 20ma.
        Corley

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        • #19
          Well...Mr. Wiffer...Bulbs in the traditional sense, don't care 'bout polarity, but "LED's" do. For some reason, led bulbs are voltage and polarity sensitive. That is why they, depending on the rated voltage, require a resistor. I have enough electronic, and electrical knowledge to get me into trouble...but very little to get me "out of trouble."

          If I'm not mistaken,(and I often am) the resistor for LED's is placed on the ground lead of the circuit. It is also my understanding that if you have the correct resistor...reversing polarity will only result in the LED not lighting up. However, if you fail to use the correct resistor, you can destroy the LED. So far, I have been able to get by in accepting the fact that the resistor is required, even though I have been too intellectually lazy to learn why. If I am in doubt, about how to build a circuit...I sketch it out, and take it to someone (willing to allow me to pester them) for answers to exactly how the mechanical connections are to be made.

          It helps to have good finger dexterity, learn how to solder, and when to use a heat sink when applying the solder. It also is good if you develop an attitude that...if you screw it up...laugh at your stupidity...and do it over. If you can't do that...then that is when you happily pay someone else to do it.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #20
            Originally posted by jclary View Post
            It is a bit comical how we can sometimes get hung up on a topic and talk it to death. The main thing is to choose a method of installation you are comfortable with and have fun making it work. Truth is, with an accessory more likely to have been either dealer or customer installed, rather than factory..."back in the day"...variations of install probably existed then.

            Main thing to remember is safety. 1955 was a transitional year for wiring. I have a 1955 President coupe that has a combination of the more modern plastic wire insulation and the old cloth type on things like headlight pigtails, and instrument behind the dash wiring. I would recommend eliminating any, if not all, the cloth insulated wiring that shows signs of deterioration. Regardless of which type you have, it is important to protect the circuits with appropriate wire size and fuse protection.

            For fog lights, the safest way would be to run the main light power through a relay-switch, and use a simple toggle switch for the "on-off" function to power the relay. If you want to make it a bit more complicated, you can source your toggle switch power from the "dim" terminal on your dimmer switch. That way...the fog lights will only be on when your main headlights are on low beam. That is the way I have set up the fog lights on installations I have done myself.

            An exception, is the fog lights on my '48 coupe. On this car, I have a set of factory fog lights. However, I installed them using a ceramic insulated rheostat switch that can handle the current without a relay. This way...I can dial up and down the brightness of my amber fog lights. Not for any specific purpose...just because I like to play with things.
            While scanning through our local Motor Vehicle Act Regulations here in British Columbia, fog lights must be wired in such a manner to permit simultaneous operation of the park lights, tail lights and licence plate lights. Also you can drive at night with the headlights off and the fogs on provided the accessory lighting is on. They are required to be focused to a specific criteria and the illumination must meet a specified standard. They cannot be wired independently. The Regs indicate that you may drive with headlights on or off at your descretion. FYI Dave

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            • #21
              Here are some 6 volt LED dash lights
              http://www.ebay.com/itm/251183841986...84.m1439.l2649

              But they are wired to be negative ground and have to be reversed for our cars. Poweroptions started a thread on this.

              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...t=poweroptions
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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              • #22
                Originally posted by PlainBrownR2 View Post
                The 185 we had in the Champion was also thought as being stodgy, until a challenge from one of the local kids who had a habit for incessantly mouthing off about the V8 in his Chevy, challenged my Dad's Champion to a drag race in one of the gravel pits. After the increased torque from the Champion's stroked 185 blew this kid's 283 out of the water, he never challenged our little Champion again.
                1955 Studebaker 185 6 = 152 ft pounds of torque at 1800 RPM
                1955 Chevrolet 265 V8 (2 bbl) = 257 ft pounds of torque at 2200 RPM
                1957 Chevrolet 283 (2 bbl) = 275 ft pounds of torque at 2400 RPM

                (per the 1958 "Motor's Auto Repair Manual")
                Dick Steinkamp
                Bellingham, WA

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by PlainBrownR2 View Post
                  After the increased torque from the Champion's stroked 185 blew this kid's 283 out of the water, he never challenged our little Champion again.
                  errr....We love our Studes, but let's not get carried away here!!

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by jclary View Post
                    ...laugh at your stupidity...and do it over.
                    I think that is why I am on this Forum. I actually learn something almost every day! Thanx for straightening me out!

                    John

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                    • #25
                      ALTAIR. Thankfully I dont live in BC so I needn't worry bout that reg.

                      RADIO ROY. Yep Thats the guys I bought a handful of the LED's from. I asked them about getting them pre-wired in reverse and they didnt have a clue what I was asking for. Even nice enough to write me back in Chinese.

                      JOHNNYWIFFER Thank you for your input. Even though it was wrong it was appreciated because it opens up discussion & that's what this site is all about.

                      CORLEY & JCLARY Yep. I bought a handful of the 6 volt LED's and when I get them I'm going to give my hand a try. I learned TV and Radio repair when I was a teen ( back when a TV or Radio COULD be repaired ) and while its been dacades, I look forward to seeing if I still have a steady hand for it. Now I'm not building a bomb here so If I make a mistake only an LED loses it's life. If it works out well I'll make some available to the membership in case they want to upgrade. I'll post the results here after the first operation and i'll let you know if the patient lived.

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