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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
    /Cut/I just don't see what Rich sees in the "tube"....overflow tube? I only see the one by the radiator cap.
    Warren, the Left Front corner of the CORE as I said, seems to "Wrap" the corner of the Top Tank, very odd.
    That way you get 2 extra tubes on each side.

    __________________________________________________________________

    Wow, Costco is now selling Interstate Batteries in your area, and they are now Black instead of the Traditional
    Interstate GREEN!

    This must be due to the switch from USA production to China, which according to a Interstate Dealer DID happen!
    Last edited by StudeRich; 07-28-2013, 04:28 PM.

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  • altair
    replied
    I think the engineers designed these engines to super heat the fuel as in those days hot fuel was deemed more economical than cold fuel. Where the carburetor sits is the hottest place on the engine and boiling is inherent. GM and Ford in the same time frame liquid cooled the intake manifolds to overcome overheated fuel issues. To overcome this issue would take some trickey engineering, if the fuel in the bowl of the carburetor is boiling after shutdown then that remaining fuel would have to be recirculated from the bowl. After shutdown would require a timed recirculation pump to return the fuel to the tank from the bowl and would have to operate only after the engine was turned off, could be done, hence the liquid cooled intake manifold. Dave

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  • SScopelli
    replied
    Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
    Rut- Roe!! Don't let the battery hold down police see this!! Seriously though, what a beautiful engine compartment. I just don't see what Rich sees in the "tube"....overflow tube? I only see the one by the radiator cap.
    Rut-Roe, is right. As you noted the battery hold down police got me!..

    If you notice in this picture, the tab on the fender to bolt the hold down bracket is not all there!.. Bummer since it was so nicely painted and what you cant see, even under the bracket.. Errrr



    So I had to cut on off from another fender and graft it on there!



    And then!



    A little grind and paint today..

    Thanks for noting that!

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  • LeoH
    replied
    My radiator went 3 core this spring for $500.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    That radiator is called a triple pass. I had a double pass, aluminum one custom made once for a 56J, but it flowed horizontally, and had side tanks. It was basically two small radiators, instead of one large one. It cooled better than an OEM 3-row, but not as good as a 5-row I'd had made earlier.

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  • Paul Keller
    replied
    The last Stude' radiator I had recored (about four years ago) cost a tad over $500 - You have a great set-up at about the same cost.
    Paul TK

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  • SScopelli
    replied
    First,

    Thank you for the great compliments and critique, she is a work in progress, but an August girl for sure!

    This was a nut and bolt restoration on a 61 Convertible. I figured this car has been around for 52 years, and now it should last another 75..

    You may also notice the cowl tag is not painted. I thought it looked great in bare metal forum. The 63 Wiper motor, (now why would he do that?) The Carb is my own secret sauce.. And that is basically an R1+ engine on a replacement block.

    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    That is one super sweet looking radiator! It actually APPEARS to have one of the tubes (of the core) on the corner and one on the side and a three or four Row all Aluminum Core in a original '60 Lark Brass Tank? Very nice! Can you explain what it REALLY is please?
    I may have missed a post about it or forgot.
    No problem.. I had posted a pic of it before..

    Click image for larger version

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    It is from Cool Craft Radiators in LA.. So it flows in the top and then goes back up, then down and out the bottom pipe... So the water stays in the radiator longer and really does cool it down.

    They call it a high-efficiency 3 core element. I do believe it is all Copper as these guys explain, nothing cools like copper!
    They have a comparison and show 11 deg cooling difference over aluminum. Their take on it was, Detroit went aluminum to save on shipping weight. I agree on nothing cools like copper.

    It was pricey to have done, $560.00..

    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    Looking at the pix by Scopelli, it appears this motor has never been fired up, or least never brought up to operating temperature. Heck, it looks like the battery terminals have never been tightened down.
    Oh, its been at Opp temp several times.. Turn up the volume!

    http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/R2...7db76.mp4.html

    Sorry for the poor video quality.. I'll get my son to use his HD camera instead of my Cell phone..

    Ceramic paint helps keep it looking great, run after run..



    A cleaning solvent will clean up that toning from a oil leak..

    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    I too, have read recommendations be several here, to block off the heat riser tunnel, however, I doubt many have actually tried it. I did, and discovered the carb takes longer to warm up, so the choke (no matter if electric of heated) opens up way to early, even if adjusted to max rich setting. So what you wind up with is a cold running engine for the first 15 minutes or so (spitting & sputtering), long after the choke has opened up. The only choke feasible to run with a blocked off heat riser, is a manual type so you can leave it partially on till the carb warms up.

    However, after 10-20 miles in hot weather, the carb will eventually warm up to same as the engine temp, and when shut down for 15-30 minutes later, it will again have the same hot re-start problems most of us are all too familiar with.

    So, though blocking off the heat riser tunnel sounds like a good idea, it does not actually work well. Nor does it solve hot re-start problems, unless only driven for short time/distance.
    All I can tell you on blocking it off and spacer is, I can get in it 15 min later or the next day, and it fires up like it were a 2002 Sequoia.. And I live in Phoenix, where a cooling trend is below 100! It does help and the performance I feel is better..

    Yes, the Battery is not clamped down, but that PS pump has to be good for something else! Its a work in progress so I take off the cables when not in use..

    It is Scary fast!

    I guess I will start a thread on the 61 Phantom and see what people think of it..
    Last edited by SScopelli; 07-17-2013, 02:26 PM.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    Looking at the pix by Scopelli, it appears this motor has never been fired up, or least never brought up to operating temperature. Heck, it looks like the battery terminals have never been tightened down.

    I too, have read recommendations be several here, to block off the heat riser tunnel, however, I doubt many have actually tried it. I did, and discovered the carb takes longer to warm up, so the choke (no matter if electric of heated) opens up way to early, even if adjusted to max rich setting. So what you wind up with is a cold running engine for the first 15 minutes or so (spitting & sputtering), long after the choke has opened up. The only choke feasible to run with a blocked off heat riser, is a manual type so you can leave it partially on till the carb warms up.

    However, after 10-20 miles in hot weather, the carb will eventually warm up to same as the engine temp, and when shut down for 15-30 minutes later, it will again have the same hot re-start problems most of us are all too familiar with.

    So, though blocking off the heat riser tunnel sounds like a good idea, it does not actually work well. Nor does it solve hot re-start problems, unless only driven for short time/distance.

    Leave a comment:


  • Warren Webb
    replied
    Originally posted by SScopelli View Post




    ..
    Rut- Roe!! Don't let the battery hold down police see this!! Seriously though, what a beautiful engine compartment. I just don't see what Rich sees in the "tube"....overflow tube? I only see the one by the radiator cap.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    That is one super sweet looking radiator! It actually APPEARS to have one of the tubes (of the core) on the corner and one on the side and a three or four Row all Aluminum Core in a original '60 Lark Brass Tank? Very nice! Can you explain what it REALLY is please?
    I may have missed a post about it or forgot.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 07-15-2013, 11:54 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SScopelli
    replied
    Originally posted by 41 Frank View Post
    You are experiencing what most of us experience these days..
    I hear that..

    In other post on this subject, it helps to blank off the exhaust crossover to lower the temperature of the manifold and use a phenolic spacer if your hood space allows for it.

    Also I do not have the line clamped to any part of the engine. I noticed you have it clamped to the thermostat housing.. A potential conductive heat transfer, as apposed to convection, which has a higher rate of entropy..



    If you upgrade to the R1 pump, it has a bigger diaphragm and it seems to really suck the fuel from the tank quicker and more volume than the std one.

    The filter you have, do you know what micron filter it is? If too high micron filtration it sometimes can be restrictive and slow the fuel flow down quite a bit.

    To eliminate the smell in the garage I went the Green rout.. I put a charcoal evap canister and plumbed it for it. I added a vent to the tank (61 had vented caps). On engine start up a solenoid is triggers and vacuum sucks on the evap for 5 seconds to keep it dry. No smell when the garage is 105F!


    Originally posted by studebro2 View Post
    Purchased a 54 Starlight in April with an R1 with an AFB carb. Noticed that sometimes I would have to crank the engine for an extended length of time before starting because it had no fuel.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]25610[/ATTACH]
    I'm assuming you have a Carter AFB and not the Edelbrock. I have a top for the AFB that comes out the front if you want to clean up the snaking of your fuel line and potential problem as the throttle linkage can catch on your fuel line..
    Last edited by SScopelli; 07-15-2013, 04:10 PM.

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  • 41 Frank
    replied
    You are experiencing what most of us experience these days and that is (1) evaporation of the fuel in the carburetor bowl after sitting a few days and (2)fuel boil over after engine shut down and hot soak. Not much can be done about it as your fuel system is open to the atmosphere, unlike todays modern fuel injected systems. All my cars do it, I leave the garage door open for a while until the engine cools down.

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  • t walgamuth
    replied
    The electric pump will solve that as well.

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  • Carl Purdy
    replied
    I don't think you are answering his question. He is talking about boiling after he shuts the engine off. Not vapor locking while driving.

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  • t walgamuth
    replied
    I would expect vapor lock on these old engines with modern fuel. I'd put an electric booster near the tank and push it to the carb. It can be put on a switch or wired to come on with the key.

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