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Door lock cylinder. Repairable or not?

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  • PlainBrownR2
    replied
    More polite? ummm, Ok.

    I thought that special tool was to free the clip from the door skin, but I guess not.

    More fun prying things out with a screwdriver, yay! =(


    I never tried mine on the clip on the lock cylinder, but you can have a go at it, on the inside door clip, as there's more than a few ways of getting that clip out! Yeah, the reason for the forked end for the later model cars(without the phillips screw in the shaft), is so it can slip behind the bezel, slide into the notches on the door and window handle, and push that clip out. It's not just limited to the Studebakers either, the modern cars had that silly clip in there too!


    As an aside, that same door clip is also used to hold the flexible brake hoses in place, in that bracket on the frame where the hose connects to the steel brake line, now howzabout that!!

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  • wittsend
    replied
    I'm not sure if all door locks are similar on Studebaker, but I had to repair them on my '64 Daytona. There is a pin projection (sometimes call a boss) on the tumbler to rotate the square shaft. It was sheared off on one of my locks. I drilled an appropriate sized hole (caution on the depth - don't hit the retaining clip) and pressed in a 1/8" roll pin. I then used a Dremel to cut the pin to length.

    The info at the Bob Johnstone (mentioned above) was fabulous for knowing where to drill the hole to access the release clip. Otherwise I was baffled as to how one ever got inside the lock.

    Tom

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Yep Spannerbird, AFTER I put my Gateway to bed at 12:30 late night, it occurred to me that I gave you the wrong info about your inside door handle tool. If you WERE actually using it on your '53, it would not be necessary because your Car just has Phillips screws holding the door handles on!

    I thought about firing the computer back up and saying that, but looked at the clock and said NAW, someone will correct me anyway on the East Coast 3 Hours before I get up anyway maybe Gary L.

    Now I read the real story, that's fine, you'll figure it out.

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  • christophe
    replied

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  • Spannerbird
    replied
    Yep, the black tool that looks like a 2 pronged fork with notches in the centre, and the bend at the opposite end.

    I usually say yes almost instantly to any kind of special tool that's not ridiculously expensive. VW had one for removing factory hose clamps that made the task so much easier. It was around $60, but was something you could use on your car many times, and for CAVWO they could borrow it.

    Leave a comment:


  • christophe
    replied
    Originally posted by Spannerbird View Post
    More polite? ummm, Ok.

    I thought that special tool was to free the clip from the door skin, but I guess not.

    More fun prying things out with a screwdriver, yay! =(

    Leave a comment:


  • Spannerbird
    replied
    More polite? ummm, Ok.

    I thought that special tool was to free the clip from the door skin, but I guess not.

    More fun prying things out with a screwdriver, yay! =(

    Leave a comment:


  • christophe
    replied
    Originally posted by PlainBrownR2 View Post
    Be careful, because those clips are spring loaded, and one of the ones known as "Jesus clips" because when they pop loose, you'll shout "Jesus, where'd it go!!"
    It's not what I said when it happened a week ago! I'll try to think about you and be more polite the next time.

    Leave a comment:


  • PlainBrownR2
    replied
    I think we have some confusion here.

    The special tool, if it's that forked universal door handle tool that I'm thinking of, goes between the plastic bezel and the door panel on the later model door latch and window cranks, and removes the tiny spring clip in the slot, so the the latch and window cranks can come out. Be careful, because those clips are spring loaded, and one of the ones known as "Jesus clips" because when they pop loose, you'll shout "Jesus, where'd it go!!".

    The locks themselves, are affixed to the door with another type of clip, but these slide in a slot that are machined into the sides of the locks, and hold it in place on the inside of the outer door skin. If you can reach your arm inside the door and reach the lock cylinder, you can feel them on the lock. They are like a spring loaded U-clip. There's probably a myriad of ways of getting them loose, I always like to slide a screwdriver or something to separate them from the lock cylinder, but they need to slide out of the slot on the lock cylinder. Odds are, the last time they were put in, was when they left the factory, so there might be a good deal of corrosion on the U-clip and the inside door skin(they won't come out real easily). Once that happens, the lock should pull right out.

    I was one of the ones that had to repair my locks on the Lark, because that tiny potmetal nub on the end of the lock broke loose, and I had the same thing happen where my lock just turned in the cylinder. To repair it, I drilled out the nub, and replaced it with a hardened machine screw, so now to break the machine screw, I have to literally destroy the lock.

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  • christophe
    replied
    Originally posted by Spannerbird View Post
    I bought the special tool from S.I., but can't figure out and easy or sort of easy way to use it. I imagine the two outside parts of the fork are to put around the upper and lower parts of the spring, but getting it between the door skin and spring isn't easy.

    Any advice?
    I used mine just recently. It'll do the trick unless the tiny spring is deformed. Keep the tool as parallel as possible to the handle. You must insert it on the crank side, aligned with the crank. It usually takes several tries. Don't forget that the spring can pop out like a bullet and get in the worse place you could imagine (Murphy's law is a rule there!). Best of luck.

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    The universal inside door handle removal tool goes DIRECTLY against the underside of the handle between it and the nylon spacer ring under it. If I remember correctly the loose (open) ends of the "C" Clip are usually at the handle end not the round part, but if not, go in from the opposite (round) side.

    Note that this post is talking only about the Key lock cylinder and it's Clip inside the door.
    I believe you must be talking about the Inside Door and Window Handles, I hope.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spannerbird
    replied
    I bought the special tool from S.I., but can't figure out and easy or sort of easy way to use it. I imagine the two outside parts of the fork are to put around the upper and lower parts of the spring, but getting it between the door skin and spring isn't easy.

    Any advice?

    Leave a comment:


  • christophe
    replied
    I did the repair yesterday. Everything went smoothly. The housing had already the hole to release the lock. All the tumblers were frozen by dirty old grease and were useless. Now, I have a lock that really locks.
    Thanks again to all.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bordeaux Daytona
    replied
    Originally posted by christophe View Post
    Thanks John.
    I always forget that Bob's site is a real gold mine. I'll try the screw trick. By the way, congrats for your 900th post!
    Nice day to all.
    Thanks Christophe, I didn't realize I had that many posts
    That repair should work fine. I did it to my 64 years ago and it still works ok. Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • christophe
    replied
    Thanks John.
    I always forget that Bob's site is a real gold mine. I'll try the screw trick. By the way, congrats for your 900th post!
    Nice day to all.

    Leave a comment:

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