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Door lock cylinder. Repairable or not?

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  • #16
    Yep, the black tool that looks like a 2 pronged fork with notches in the centre, and the bend at the opposite end.

    I usually say yes almost instantly to any kind of special tool that's not ridiculously expensive. VW had one for removing factory hose clamps that made the task so much easier. It was around $60, but was something you could use on your car many times, and for CAVWO they could borrow it.
    www.spannerbird.com
    Coral/Beige 1953 Studebaker Commander Starlight.

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    • #17
      sigpic

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      • #18
        Yep Spannerbird, AFTER I put my Gateway to bed at 12:30 late night, it occurred to me that I gave you the wrong info about your inside door handle tool. If you WERE actually using it on your '53, it would not be necessary because your Car just has Phillips screws holding the door handles on!

        I thought about firing the computer back up and saying that, but looked at the clock and said NAW, someone will correct me anyway on the East Coast 3 Hours before I get up anyway maybe Gary L.

        Now I read the real story, that's fine, you'll figure it out.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #19
          I'm not sure if all door locks are similar on Studebaker, but I had to repair them on my '64 Daytona. There is a pin projection (sometimes call a boss) on the tumbler to rotate the square shaft. It was sheared off on one of my locks. I drilled an appropriate sized hole (caution on the depth - don't hit the retaining clip) and pressed in a 1/8" roll pin. I then used a Dremel to cut the pin to length.

          The info at the Bob Johnstone (mentioned above) was fabulous for knowing where to drill the hole to access the release clip. Otherwise I was baffled as to how one ever got inside the lock.

          Tom
          '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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          • #20
            More polite? ummm, Ok.

            I thought that special tool was to free the clip from the door skin, but I guess not.

            More fun prying things out with a screwdriver, yay! =(


            I never tried mine on the clip on the lock cylinder, but you can have a go at it, on the inside door clip, as there's more than a few ways of getting that clip out! Yeah, the reason for the forked end for the later model cars(without the phillips screw in the shaft), is so it can slip behind the bezel, slide into the notches on the door and window handle, and push that clip out. It's not just limited to the Studebakers either, the modern cars had that silly clip in there too!


            As an aside, that same door clip is also used to hold the flexible brake hoses in place, in that bracket on the frame where the hose connects to the steel brake line, now howzabout that!!
            1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
            1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
            1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
            1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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