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  • Frame Reinforcement

    I didn't want to hijack Bams thread on his frame, so I'll ask it here. If a Studebaker frame is going to twist or crack, is there areas that might be reinforced during a rebuild on a car driven hard? I plan on using mine as a cruiser with a few trips to the drags. I'm planing on traction bars and maybe HD rear leaf springs.

    My frame is solid. But I don't want to twist anything on a hard launch either. While I'm sure this hasn't been a problem on the PBW or Ted's Tomato, I'd rather add 20-30 lbs of steel than see twist or cracks. Any input?

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Valrico, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1828.98)

    Tom - Bradenton, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

  • #2
    Don't bother.

    JDP/Maryland
    64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
    64 GT R2
    63 Lark 2 door
    58 Scotsman
    52 & 53 Starliner
    51 Commander
    39 Coupe express
    39 Coupe express (rod)

    JDP Maryland

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    • #3
      If the "hard use" is in a straight line only, I would agree with JDP. If you are planning on carving corners you might reinforce the frame up front near the crossmember, I have seen them crack there. A '64 should already have factory reinforcements under the upper inner control arm shaft mounts, which are the other real weak spot.

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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      • #4
        Like the others have said.......
        From nothing.. to weld ALL riveted joints and add doublers to shock and or control arm areas.

        Depends on the application...no one can tell you until we all know what your intension is!

        Mike

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        • #5
          Normal street driving with the occasional trip to the drag strip. Road racing isn't in the mix for this car.

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Valrico, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1903.98)

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

          Comment


          • #6
            If your frame ain't cracked, Tom - don't sweat it. THE primary spot that SOME of these frames crack at is across the hole where the big rivet is, just aft of the front spring pocket. It seems to be more likely on C-K cars than Larks and sedans.

            Miscreant adrift in
            the BerStuda Triangle


            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe

            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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            • #7
              No worries...as they say...put it back together and drive it. You'll be fine.

              Mike

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              • #8
                MR. Biggs, is that a repairable crack,up by the ft springs?

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