I checked the point gap this morning. Seems fine. Tweaked it more went for a drive. CRAP I'm tired of getting nowhere. Again as I get up to top speed/ shift point it starts to cut out. I get to a hill and put a little load on the engine it cuts out. I take my foot off the accelerator it straightens out. Two years of frustration on the simplest car in our garage. What kinda money are you throwing at the distributor if you don't mind me asking? Please let me know how your car acts with your new distributor. TY
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52 Champion, loose wire under hood. Where does it go.
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1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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How about removing the 3psi pressure regulator on the fuel line? Or at least re-setting it to 5 psi? The stock mechanical pump puts out 5 psi.
Maybe it's starving for fuel at speed.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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RadioRoy, nice to hear from you. I will go out and set the fuel regulator up to 5psi and go for a drive again. I had set it upwards yesterday and when I did fuel started running out of the carb so I turned it down to avoid gas on the manifold.Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostHow about removing the 3psi pressure regulator on the fuel line? Or at least re-setting it to 5 psi? The stock mechanical pump puts out 5 psi.
Maybe it's starving for fuel at speed.1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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RadioRoy, I turned the pressure regulator up to 5psi. Still same problem of cutting out. I too thought it wasn't getting enough fuel so I had taken the fuel bowl off dumped it and removed the screen, everything was clean and no H2O in bowl which is what it feels like when I drive. I just filled it with fresh premium gas too.Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostHow about removing the 3psi pressure regulator on the fuel line? Or at least re-setting it to 5 psi? The stock mechanical pump puts out 5 psi.
Maybe it's starving for fuel at speed.1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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OMG.....I think I've figured out the picture thing. Sheeesh!1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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From reading all of this, I am going to take a stab at it. I think that you are getting air in your fuel. This often happens with a pin hole leak in a hard line. It won't leak enough to drip gasoline, but it will draw air in which leans out your mixture. This most often happens at a point on the line where there is a hold down clamp due to a combination of wear and rust. Have you replaced, with new, all of your hard and soft fuel lines?
This reminds me of a 1953 Commander Starliner that a guy had spent a lot of money on trying to get it to run properly. I discovered air getting into his fuel. I didn't charge the guy and never even got a Thank You. That is probably why I remember it.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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There should be two primary wires (not spark plug wires) on the side of the coil that goes to the distributor - sometimes that wire is on the distributor. Electrically, it's the same. One wire goes to the distributor and the other goes to the overdrive harness. The second one kills the ignition for a split second when the accelerator pedal is floored in overdrive. That kills the engine for just an instant and allows the transmission to drop out of overdrive. That wire goes to one of the terminals on the kick down switch that is farthest from the actuator button on the switch, so you can check that with an ohmmeter.
If that wire is disconnected, and you are cruising on overdrive, depressing the accelerator pedal will not allow the car to drop down from overdrive. You can test it by trying this.
In addition, since your car is positive ground, the + symbol on the coil should go to the distributor, and the - symbol goes to the ignition switch. If your coil is wired backwards, that could cause a weak spark, even if everything else is working well.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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Radio Roy you're onto it. The coil presently has only one wire. The loose wire I'm holding runs into the OD harness. I supplied the mechanics with a new high output 6V coil that they replaced. I am thinking that the loose wire I'm holding is to be attached to the coil or distributor. That's what I came to think after studing the wiring diagram in my manual and the diagram StudeRich sent me. I will look to see that the polarity is correct for the wiring off the coil, since it was just replaced. As for the air leak in the fuel lines. I had custom bent all new stainless steel lines from the tank forward. What I'm nervous about is where the mechanics cut the fuel line to install the new pressure regulator. The regulator appears to be held/connected into the line with some type of plastic sleeve that wedge into the line.1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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I must have 6V present because the OD seems to work.Originally posted by Champ51 View PostOn my '51, the only large wire coming out of the harness at that point is the power feed for the overdrive. You do have 6 volts at the BAT connection on the OD Relay, don't you.1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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Roy the wires on the coil were reversed. I changed those and it does run better at least it's not cutting out so bad that it throws you back and forth. It still does not run out smooth at higher engine speed. I can get it up to 55-60mph then it stumbles. The mechanics told me they had readjusted the float. Everything that was done to the car makes me nervous. It seems like a fuel thing. The carb floods itself on start up very easy. You dare not step on the accelerator pedal or the carb is wet. I turned the pressure regulator up to 5 and it still stumbles. The regulator is screwed in not simple pressed into the line. I misspoke in another reply. I had my glasses on this morning.Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostThere should be two primary wires (not spark plug wires) on the side of the coil that goes to the distributor - sometimes that wire is on the distributor. Electrically, it's the same. One wire goes to the distributor and the other goes to the overdrive harness. The second one kills the ignition for a split second when the accelerator pedal is floored in overdrive. That kills the engine for just an instant and allows the transmission to drop out of overdrive. That wire goes to one of the terminals on the kick down switch that is farthest from the actuator button on the switch, so you can check that with an ohmmeter.
If that wire is disconnected, and you are cruising on overdrive, depressing the accelerator pedal will not allow the car to drop down from overdrive. You can test it by trying this.
In addition, since your car is positive ground, the + symbol on the coil should go to the distributor, and the - symbol goes to the ignition switch. If your coil is wired backwards, that could cause a weak spark, even if everything else is working well.1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45
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