If the smoke is really blue instead of black, the extra oil burning could be related to the oil leaking from the valve covers - the shop could have left out the oil baffles.
If the smoke is black, that would be related to the carb problems.
The oil pressure could be related to the type of oil installed, or the oil could be diluted with gasoline from the carburetor problems. Diluted oil would wear the bearings out very quickly. You might see if the oil level on the dipstick has actually gone up. There is an old mechanics trick to tell if there is oil in the gas. I cannot remember enough of it to explain it, but you might pull the dipstick, walk away from the car and sniff the dipstick for gas fumes.
The fouled plugs could cause the high speed problems, and are related to the carb. Putting the good looking ones in and test driving is a great idea.
It seems to me that a lot of different things are going on at the same time
-loose wire
-loose head bolts
-smoking
-bad brakes
-fuel dripping from carb
-lower oil pressure
-poor high speed performance
It's usually better to focus on one symptom, or one system at a time. The fuel system seems to have the most commonality here, but I would re-torque the head bolts with a torque wrench in the proper pattern first.
I feel your frustration and sincerely wish you had a good mechanic. From your posts, it seems like the mechanics you currently have are doing more disservice than good. They certainly seem to be a sloppy bunch. Even if one does not understand a certain car, leaving wires disconnected and head bolts loose is inexcusable.
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52 Champion, loose wire under hood. Where does it go.
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As a test - put the old Autolite plugs in and drive it. (I have more faith in old Autolite plugs than new NGK plugs.)
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My Champion was still cutting out under load. I have been noticing it puff blue smoke on start up. It never did that before it's 1 1/2 years at the mechanics garage. I pulled the new NGK plugs tonight that the shop installed and they are fouled, black and sooty. My old Autolite plugs that were pulled 1 1/2yrs ago are in the parts box in the trunk. They are nice and light greyish. No sootiness. I don't know what the hell has taken place with my car but I don't think it's good. Every time I give it gas I get a noticeable puff of blue smoke. The oil pressure isn't what it use to be either. It still runs about 45-50lbs going down the roadit use to be 55-60lbs, but when hot at idle it now is dropping to 20lbs. It use to drop to 35-40 before the extended stay at the shop. What's do you all think. Is it valve guides our bad rings?? It still sounds good, nice and quiet when idling. Another thing when I drove it home the head bolts were not tight. The shop had taken off the spark plug wire bracket and then forgot to tighten the head bolts I guess. I got home and oil was leaking out of the head, I tightened those 2 bolts. Now I also notice quite a bit of oil leaking from all around the valve inspection covers that side of the motor is wet too. I'm wish like hell I knew of a Stude mechanic in the D/FW area or east Texas area. All and any ideas are greatly appreciated. My Champion is probably my favorite car of all of them.
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You guys are right on. Just reversed the wires on MY 6V coil and it runs so much better with the pertronics (even though the garage next door boosted my 6v car with a 12 V battery). After changing out the voltage regulator and getting it charging again, at least it'll drive OK until I get my new dizzy from Dave Thibeault. Thanks a bunch!
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Originally posted by poweroptions View PostI must have 6V present because the OD seems to work.
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just one more... old cars and partially clogged fuel lines. disconnect at fuel pump input and apply high pressure air to blow back into tank. this should
be in- expensive test. No parts to buy !
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One thing you might try. Get a transistor radio (remember those), set it on the low end of the AM band, between stations, and carry it in the car, volume cranked up, while you go for a ride. You should hear a pop from the speaker every time a spark plug fires. At higher speeds, the pops will merge into a buzz. If the ignition is breaking down at higher RPM, causing your miss, you should hear an abrupt change in the nature of the buzz.
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Thanks for the info on the vacuum. I'm saving that info for the other cars I have too.Originally posted by Dan Timberlake View PostI'd be doing a fuel pressure and delivery test at the fuel line entering the carb. the results answer a lot of questions about condition of the pump, lines and filter.
Troubleshooting charts for use with vacuum gages have some test results for constricted exhaust.
A pressure measurement directly to a bung welded to the exhaust pipe before the manifold would be even more meaningful.
Taping the gage to the windshield when hooked to the manifold, then the fuel line, and later the exhaust system would answer a lot more questions about what is working right and what is working wrong. Kind of like an OBD II port does now.
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Everything is good here. I have a new heat riser valve and exhaust system.Originally posted by studegary View PostGord mentions another good possibility, restricted exhaust. This can be due to things like; kinked exhaust/tail pipe, loose muffler baffle, some foreign material in the system (like a nest), stuck heat riser.
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I'd be doing a fuel pressure and delivery test at the fuel line entering the carb. the results answer a lot of questions about condition of the pump, lines and filter.
Troubleshooting charts for use with vacuum gages have some test results for constricted exhaust.
A pressure measurement directly to a bung welded to the exhaust pipe before the manifold would be even more meaningful.
Taping the gage to the windshield when hooked to the manifold, then the fuel line, and later the exhaust system would answer a lot more questions about what is working right and what is working wrong. Kind of like an OBD II port does now.
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Gord mentions another good possibility, restricted exhaust. This can be due to things like; kinked exhaust/tail pipe, loose muffler baffle, some foreign material in the system (like a nest), stuck heat riser.
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My guess would be that the mystery wire is the overdrive kickdown wire, and it should go to the (+) terminal on the coil, which should also be connected to the distributor. The (-) terminal on the coil should go to the ignition switch. A coil connected backwards could lead to a high-speed miss.
Other possible causes of high-speed miss: weak points spring, or bushing too tight on moving arm of points; insufficient fuel supply to carb; restricted exhaust system.
I saw one Champion one time, that the seat for the float valve in the carb had worked loose, and unscrewed to the point that the valve was holding the float down. The float valve was closed tight, but enough fuel seeped around the threads on the seat for it to flood out at idle, yet when you tried to drive it, it would burn up the fuel in the bowl and quit from fuel starvation. That was real hard to find, but a simple twist of a screwdriver to fix.
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Roy the wires on the coil were reversed. I changed those and it does run better at least it's not cutting out so bad that it throws you back and forth. It still does not run out smooth at higher engine speed. I can get it up to 55-60mph then it stumbles. The mechanics told me they had readjusted the float. Everything that was done to the car makes me nervous. It seems like a fuel thing. The carb floods itself on start up very easy. You dare not step on the accelerator pedal or the carb is wet. I turned the pressure regulator up to 5 and it still stumbles. The regulator is screwed in not simple pressed into the line. I misspoke in another reply. I had my glasses on this morning.Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostThere should be two primary wires (not spark plug wires) on the side of the coil that goes to the distributor - sometimes that wire is on the distributor. Electrically, it's the same. One wire goes to the distributor and the other goes to the overdrive harness. The second one kills the ignition for a split second when the accelerator pedal is floored in overdrive. That kills the engine for just an instant and allows the transmission to drop out of overdrive. That wire goes to one of the terminals on the kick down switch that is farthest from the actuator button on the switch, so you can check that with an ohmmeter.
If that wire is disconnected, and you are cruising on overdrive, depressing the accelerator pedal will not allow the car to drop down from overdrive. You can test it by trying this.
In addition, since your car is positive ground, the + symbol on the coil should go to the distributor, and the - symbol goes to the ignition switch. If your coil is wired backwards, that could cause a weak spark, even if everything else is working well.
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I must have 6V present because the OD seems to work.Originally posted by Champ51 View PostOn my '51, the only large wire coming out of the harness at that point is the power feed for the overdrive. You do have 6 volts at the BAT connection on the OD Relay, don't you.
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Radio Roy you're onto it. The coil presently has only one wire. The loose wire I'm holding runs into the OD harness. I supplied the mechanics with a new high output 6V coil that they replaced. I am thinking that the loose wire I'm holding is to be attached to the coil or distributor. That's what I came to think after studing the wiring diagram in my manual and the diagram StudeRich sent me. I will look to see that the polarity is correct for the wiring off the coil, since it was just replaced. As for the air leak in the fuel lines. I had custom bent all new stainless steel lines from the tank forward. What I'm nervous about is where the mechanics cut the fuel line to install the new pressure regulator. The regulator appears to be held/connected into the line with some type of plastic sleeve that wedge into the line.
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