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Gas pedal/rod from gas pedal to throttle linkage

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  • willisl55
    replied
    Sal, tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full. Could you let me know what year chevy cable system you used and how did you handle the O/D kickdown. Some pics would really be helpful too. Thanks, Lee Willis

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    Originally posted by willisl55 View Post
    Jack and Sal, could you supply some pics and model years for the Chevy parts. Also how would this work with the overdrive kickdown switch.
    I'd like to know about the OD kick down switch also. I'm not picturing anything in my mind that would do the trick. But I am thinking about a three speed stick with overdrive, not an automatic transmission.

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  • wittsend
    replied
    " On any non-stock builds, I throw away the Stude linkage and go with a Ford or Chevy pickup cable pull throttle. Costs a buck at the U-Pic versus the mega bucks for a Lokar."

    Would this be the same fellow who is not fond of the CASO 700R4 installs ( like I have done)? No, it just can't be. Comment is only meant in good fun.

    Tom
    Last edited by wittsend; 06-12-2013, 02:22 PM.

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  • willisl55
    replied
    Still would like to see some pics and years for parts. I am in the process of installing new floors in my 55 Champion and would like to have this arrangement. Thanks, Lee

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  • lark-o-rama
    replied
    Great question Willis

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  • lark-o-rama
    replied
    Originally posted by sals54 View Post
    Jack's right. I used the Chevy version of the cable system on my Coupe many years ago. Very easy. I used the bracket from the carb base from the Chevy as well. Locate the pedal where you want it, screw it in and mark the location for the "square" hole in the firewall. Drill out the hole and use a triangle file to square it up. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do the whole thing.
    Then, if you want the stock look, you could still anchor the original pedal to the floor and use it to push on the new bracket. Just be sure you get full travel on the cable or you won't have full throttle when you want to do those smokey burnouts.
    That sounds great, and easy.. as Willis155 asked.. what years of chevy trucks? I believe my 78' is a cable.

    I like smokey burnouts.. Irratates the neighbors

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  • willisl55
    replied
    Jack and Sal, could you supply some pics and model years for the Chevy parts. Also how would this work with the overdrive kickdown switch.

    Leave a comment:


  • sals54
    replied
    Jack's right. I used the Chevy version of the cable system on my Coupe many years ago. Very easy. I used the bracket from the carb base from the Chevy as well. Locate the pedal where you want it, screw it in and mark the location for the "square" hole in the firewall. Drill out the hole and use a triangle file to square it up. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do the whole thing.
    Then, if you want the stock look, you could still anchor the original pedal to the floor and use it to push on the new bracket. Just be sure you get full travel on the cable or you won't have full throttle when you want to do those smokey burnouts.

    Leave a comment:


  • lark-o-rama
    replied
    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
    Yes, many are curved. The pedal is hinged at the floor, moving in one arc. The linkage hinged off the motor is moving in a different arc. The curved piece allows for a smaller hole in the floor.

    On any non-stock builds, I throw away the Stude linkage and go with a Ford or Chevy pickup cable pull throttle. Costs a buck at the U-Pic versus the mega bucks for a Lokar.
    jack vines
    So a question Jack,
    Are you able to keep the old style gas pedal? I personally like the looks of these vs the suspended pedals..
    I am just trying to get an idea how to do this..

    thanks for your input
    Dave

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  • lark-o-rama
    replied
    Thanks for the good tips guys..

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    You could always look at the chassis parts manual. The pictures in it would explain everything.

    All of the Studebakers vendors have them and they are extremely helpful in answering all sorts of questions, especially ones like these.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 06-06-2013, 02:23 PM.

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  • PlainBrownR2
    replied
    On the back of that pedal, there should also be a ball and rubber socket arrangement between the pedal and the linkage. In most cases like this where the pedal hasn't been replaced since it went into the car, it's going to be a ball and a very hardened rubber socket arrangement. That arrangement allowed to use this linkage on many different cars, and removed whatever binding issues where in the linkage, because it allowed the pedal to pivot on that curved piece of linkage. I can honestly say that after many years of driving the '64, and having to reach under the car to poke the linkage back through the firewall boot because it popped off and became disconnected from the pedal, that there's better ways of engineering pedals.

    Generally speaking, yes, Studebaker did have a few different sizes of pedals over the years, mostly from length. I don't know if they did that with the early Larks or not, or what would facilitate the reason for needing it, but they had a few different sizes between the various passenger car model lines and the trucks.

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Also the rod going from the gas pedal to the throttle linkage is curved, if you hold it right, it looks like a smiley face.. this does not seem right.,
    Yes, many are curved. The pedal is hinged at the floor, moving in one arc. The linkage hinged off the motor is moving in a different arc. The curved piece allows for a smaller hole in the floor.

    On any non-stock builds, I throw away the Stude linkage and go with a Ford or Chevy pickup cable pull throttle. Costs a buck at the U-Pic versus the mega bucks for a Lokar.
    jack vines

    Leave a comment:


  • Gas pedal/rod from gas pedal to throttle linkage

    Hi Everyone,

    I am repairing the driver side floor from rust damage, (pass side done). Here is one of my challenges.. Where the gas pedal bolts to the floor is very rusty, just barely hanging on with one bolt. I called Stude International to price a pedal for a 60' Lark, found its almost triple the cost of the 59' Lark. Why? is there a physical difference in size? Also the rod going from the gas pedal to the throttle linkage is curved, if you hold it right, it looks like a smiley face.. this does not seem right. I also see in the catalog.. a throttle bellcrank swivel.. If this is a part of the system, mine is missing.. I am open to advice and ideas..

    Thanks in advance..
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