62 Lark finished swapping in Chevy small block and Muncie 4 speed. Was a 6 cyl automatic car. Now I'm trying to get all the electrical working so I can take it for a test drive. Prior to the swap everything worked. The drivers side brake light may not have, I don't know for sure, but turn signals worked, or at least clicked at dash.
Now, Headlights (high and low beam), tail lights and front marker lights work. I also put in all new bulbs to be sure. All other electrical seems to work fine. Engne runs fine, wipers, heater fan, etc all work.
I installed a new Ford dual master cylinder with the hydraulic brake switch in line connected to original wiring. Manual brakes. I had the steering column somewhat disassembled so I could fix the horn and remove the nacelle so I could fill and paint it to look like it never had an column automatic.
So when I stepped on the brakes the first time after having power to everything, only the passenger side brake light went on, and then only when I pressed hard on the pedal. It did it a couple more times, then it stopped going on at all. I jumpered the wires for the brake switch and again only the pass side brake light goes on. So I tested the wires to the tail lights and strangely, there is no power to the drivers side brake light at the connector (tail light works), which is after the factory splice to the pass side, yet there is power to the pass side. So there must be a problem after the factory splice, though all of that wiring is original and untouched. That should be easy enough to fix. I also am going to install a new brake light switch.
Now to the big issue. When I move the turn signal stalk in either dierction nothing happens at all. I have checked the fuse under the dash and it's good, and I put power thru the flasher and it is good. Remember the turn signals worked prior to the engine swap. I have been testing the turn signals with the ignition in the "ON" position, but not with the engine running. It should work there, correct? I did not remove any wiring from the steering column when I was working on it. Any thoughts? I suppose the switch could be bad, but the timing is odd. Have I missed something? I see on the wiring diagram there is a neutral safety switch for automatic cars. I don't even know where that is. Could that have something to do with this problem since I swapped to a floor shifted manual trans? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,
Now, Headlights (high and low beam), tail lights and front marker lights work. I also put in all new bulbs to be sure. All other electrical seems to work fine. Engne runs fine, wipers, heater fan, etc all work.
I installed a new Ford dual master cylinder with the hydraulic brake switch in line connected to original wiring. Manual brakes. I had the steering column somewhat disassembled so I could fix the horn and remove the nacelle so I could fill and paint it to look like it never had an column automatic.
So when I stepped on the brakes the first time after having power to everything, only the passenger side brake light went on, and then only when I pressed hard on the pedal. It did it a couple more times, then it stopped going on at all. I jumpered the wires for the brake switch and again only the pass side brake light goes on. So I tested the wires to the tail lights and strangely, there is no power to the drivers side brake light at the connector (tail light works), which is after the factory splice to the pass side, yet there is power to the pass side. So there must be a problem after the factory splice, though all of that wiring is original and untouched. That should be easy enough to fix. I also am going to install a new brake light switch.
Now to the big issue. When I move the turn signal stalk in either dierction nothing happens at all. I have checked the fuse under the dash and it's good, and I put power thru the flasher and it is good. Remember the turn signals worked prior to the engine swap. I have been testing the turn signals with the ignition in the "ON" position, but not with the engine running. It should work there, correct? I did not remove any wiring from the steering column when I was working on it. Any thoughts? I suppose the switch could be bad, but the timing is odd. Have I missed something? I see on the wiring diagram there is a neutral safety switch for automatic cars. I don't even know where that is. Could that have something to do with this problem since I swapped to a floor shifted manual trans? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks,
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