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Door Seals

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  • #16
    What is best to remove the brown film where the adhesive was "originally overspread" on surfaces like painted jams - without removing the paint? Thanks


    • #17
      Bump: should you cut the corners and glue @ 45 degrees or stretch/bend around in one straight piece? .....I do remember installing seals both ways without leaks, but didn't like the look of the uncut corner...


      • #18
        I see that this question has been asked 3 times on this string with no answer and it is an old thread, but one reason is that, it is hard to answer when no model info or exact location of the issue is given, as all corners, doors, deck lids and models are not alike.

        As a very GENERAL rule, if the corner is curved and the Factory bent it, I would do the same.
        Keeping in mind that the Front of the front doors on Wraparound Windshield Cars and Champ Trucks never did SEAL!

        The trick to improving them, is to run a business card all around the seal, where it has no resistance, remove the Seal and back it up with thin universal rubber to tighten the seal, if the Door does not require fit adjustment.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 12-31-2013, 02:27 PM.
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner


        • #19
          Originally posted by thunderations View Post
          Make sure you clean the WD40 off now. It has silicon in it and your new adhesive will not stick.
          WD4- may have contained silicon years ago, but not any longer. From the WD40 website:


          "What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product contain?

          While the ingredients in WD-40 Multi-Use Product are secret, we can tell you what it does NOT contain. WD-40 Multi-Use Product does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, graphite, or chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)."


          Still, whatever it does contain, I'd be sure to get it all off when applying adhesives...


          • #20
            It seems to me that the doors need to come off to replace door seals. Is this correct? Is it a pain in the @#$? Thank you.


            • #21
              a couple things....working backwards: you can remove/install the rubber with the doors in place. I need to do this (again on a new paint job) on my '62 wagon. The bugger locations are the front vertical door jambs. I'm going to tape off the exposed fender/pillar before applying any adhesive to both body and rubber. Also, I'd like to know if the Dawn detergent works well. I typically (especially on the funky upper, inner small seals) use a steel brush to rough up the sealing surface(s) of the new rubber, then clean well with spirits (den. alcohol) and install per adhesive instructions.....Works well, but labor intensive...and the fingers love when they meet the spirits...Finally, I'm going to cut my corners for the doors, and butt @ 45 degrees ......