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PCV Valve for an Avanti R2

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  • Fuel System: PCV Valve for an Avanti R2

    I am loking for the correct one. Anyone have a good source? I am having idle issues and i need to replace this anyway as it may never have been replaced. When the engine is warm, it has trouble idling. Next issue I want to look at tis the hot idle compensator valve. Are they available if i need one
    Thanks

    Neil

  • #2
    When you remove the PCV and shake it, does it rattle? If not, try cleaning it with carburetor cleaner...either by soaking it or spraying it in one end and letting it run out. If it rattles again as it should, you can reuse it. The same goes for the PCV hose...make sure it's clear.
    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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    • #3
      FWIW, I've got a hot idle compensator which was working when removed from a '63 R1. Is the R2 the same? What is the going rate for one these days?

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        Your problem is not likely to be the PCV Valve, but it would be a good thing to clean it. This R Series Type Valve is not available.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          Dave Thibeault has the PCV valves for R-2 engines, at least he did when I needed one.
          Frank van Doorn
          Omaha, Ne.
          1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
          1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
          1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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          • #6
            There are several threads on the R series PCVs. I got one from NAPA a few years ago and was pretty close to the original.
            Dan White
            64 R1 GT
            64 R2 GT
            58 C Cab
            57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

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            • #7
              Since the "R" Series PCV is just an open tube that fits a 3/8" Hose with a check ball inside to prevent backfire into the crankcase, the flow has to be over a thousand times Larger than most standard Valves with a .040 hole to breathe through.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                I took the PCV valve off and shook it. There was no much sound from it. I blew it out both ways with compressed air and moved the check valve around. When it is running I can feel it pulling air in with my finger and I blew thorough the hose into the crankcase, so I know the hose is open. I then took it for a drive. Ran reasonable until it got warm then started to stumble at idle. The longer it ran , the more it stumbled and finally stopped. I started it again and tried to close the choke some. It ran better, so I knew it was looking for more gas and less air. I took the supercharger cover off and sure enough the hot idle compensator valve was open. I held it closed and it ran better. So tomorrow night I will put some duct tape on it and run it to see if that helps. If that does help, Jack I will be in the market for that valve. I have no idea what it would be worth. It should be pretty easy to ship as it in not too big. Just let me know and I think we can make a deal. Thanks for all the advice.
                Neil

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                • #9
                  Neil, the hot idling comp valve should be open when the engine is hot and idling. When the engine is cold, check the valve by pressing down on the valve end. It should be closed and not deflect down. Often, the opposite end with the bimetallic strip fastening screws, has been pressed down, "flattening" the device and causing it to be open when cold. If this is the case, the angle can be re-established and the unit will probably work OK, but may need further tweaking. If this is the case, I can give you a measurement for that angle.

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                  • #10
                    Hi Bill. It seems to be opening too early as it was not that hot last night and it was open. The engine ran better at idel when I closed it with my finger. The end opposite where the screws are seems to be tight against the wall of the carburetor top. I think it is where the bi-metal bars are held together. It opens by lifting up the little button at the ned where the screws are per the shop manual. Anly info you have as to the room temperature angle would be appreciated. Tonight I will try it with a piece of duct tape over the hole under the valve to see if normal driving is ok. I think it is only designed to come on when the engine is idling and quite hot as per the shop manual such as pulling off a free way and getting stuck on the off ramp on a hot day - not driving down the road at 50 mph or less for say 10 minutes at say 20 degrees C ambient and rolling into my driveway for it to stop.
                    Thanks

                    Neil

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                    • #11
                      Neil, just as I suspected. The end where the bi-metal strips are held together should not be tight against the carb body, but raised at a shallow angle to the carb body. The angle determines the delay in opening. The manual talks about pressing down on the valve to close it, and I suspect previous owners have pressed down on the wrong end, thus flattening it. I will measure one and post the rise off the base mounting surface later today. It's easy to remove and re-bend to establish correct operation. (Be careful to not drop the screws into the carb bore)

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                      • #12
                        That would be greatly appreciated Bill. I have learned to read pretty carefully what a few posters on this forum post as a good opportunity to learn something. You and Peter are pretty much at the top of that list.

                        Thanks again.

                        Neil

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                        • #13
                          Neil, please excuse the quality of this photo, but it should be good enough to show the lift off the base plane of the valve base. You need 3/32" of lift (6/64" on the ruler) from the base plane as a good starting point. Note that the valve here is held open by the clamp-down.

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                          • #14
                            Bill, thanks very much. I did not have acces to the internet when I first got home today so I did not see the post until now - 8:40 PM. I took the supercharger out let off the carburetor when I got home and sure enough the valve was open somewhat cold and with the car not running yet. So I gently pried up the end opposite where the screws are and lifted it enough to get it free of the wall it was pushing on. I have driven it three times now and it has not stopped at idle. It runs better all thought he spectrum now with the carburetor giving the mixture the engine needs instead of bleeding a little air in all the time. I can feel it when it does open when hot - it does not run as smoothly. I think from reading about it is to increase the idle speed to help cool the engine.
                            In a nutshell, in the two and a half years I have owned the car, I don't thinkI have ever done anything that improved the driveability as much as this small change. Anyone having idle issues and general not running well - check this out first I would say.

                            Thanks again Bill.

                            Neil

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