Slip yoke needed 64 Daytona

[glen]

I have a need for a front slip yoke for a 1964
Daytona with the "Flight a Matic" transmission.
Anyone know of a vendor who may have 1?

Thanks

glen

[StudeRich]

Glen, I know you have not had the '64 too long since selling the '55, but you do need to get a Chassis Parts Manual!

The front Yoke for '64's (most) is the Spicer Type 1548504 YOKE(for the "U" joints with external snap rings) in stock ($40.10) at our favorite place: SASCO in the home of Studebaker!

The Mechanics brand 1557831 with the "U" Joint with split rings was used on '63's and a few '64's. It is no longer available, if you have the drive shaft and joint for that type, you need to change BOTH!

Note: RED items were revised 8/24/07

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[JDP]

That's the U joint, not the yoke. SASCO has the Spicer slip joint NOS for $40.10 if you have mechanics, you can use a conversion joint. Glad it was so simple, but buy a new rear seal too.

JDP/Maryland
64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
64 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[StudeRich]

NO, actually it's the YOKE that is compatible with the aforementioned "U" Joints, Mechanics or Spicer!

quote:Originally posted by JDP

That's the U joint, not the yoke.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[N8N]

you can get a U-joint that is 1/2 mechanics and 1/2 spicer, then you can use a spicer yoke on a mechanic's driveshaft.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[glen]

Yes, I have the chassis book and noticed the 2 differnent
types that were put on after I made the post....I saw that
Dennis has the Spicers! I do appreciate the other info as
well and about getting the new rear seal.

The yoke had developed a sever crack on 1 one of the out-
side rings and blew the cap off.


Sue Ellen 1964 Daytona
glen Brose
Tumbleweed Flats, AZ

[gordr]

Glen, just so you know, when U-joints fail due to lack of lube, there's a definite pattern. First they dry out, and get a bit rattly, then the needles start getting broken up, and they wedge tight between the cups and the trunnions. At this stage, you can grab the driveshaft, give it the usual shake test, and find nothing wrong. Close inspection MIGHT reveal some red rust powder around the seals, but on a front yoke, where the engine/tranny are adding oil mist, that's not a given. It might even take grease at this stage, but of course the damage is done. Eventually the U-joint will break.

Point is, Dick could well have missed a bad U-joint if he inspected it in the bound-up stage; I could have; you could have. They can be real sneaky! It can be hard to know if a car is behaving "normally" if you haven't had it long enough to get a feel for what is "normal."

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[JDP]

Well I call the slip joint a yoke, but I figured out what he needed at any point.

JDP/Maryland
64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
64 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[showbizkid]

Okay, this discussion has raised a question in my mind. Since I've got my driveshaft -- excuse me, propeller shaft -- out, I'd like to inspect my joints. First, which type do I have?



I have never disassembled a U-joint in my life, so how do I get these apart, and what am I looking for once I do?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

[JDP]

Spicer.I'll let someone else tell you how to replace them. My method using two sockets and a hammer is not very elegant.

JDP/Maryland
64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
64 GT R2
63 Lark 2 door
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[tbredehoft]

Lets try this.

The middle part, the X, has a cylindrical bearing surface on each of the four ends, around that bearing surface are many pins, maybe 1/10 of an inch in diameter and 5/16 long. Outside of these pins are caps. These caps are the round pieces in the outer bosses, under the spring clips, which look like raised Pi's. Thoroughly soak the whole thing in some penetrating oil, or Automatic Transmission Fluid. Maybe overnight.

With a narrow ended pliers, compress the sides of one of the Pi's and squeeze the sides together. Lift the clip out of the depression (do this in a plastic bag, else the clip may go into orbit.)

There is some merit to doing one at a time, also to doing all four at once, or two at a time. You are on your own here.

Once the spring clip is out, very carefully scrape the dirt away from the inner diameter of the boss 'cause the cap has to come out passed it. If you have removed two opposite spring clips, Find the two sockets JD mentioned, one to go inside the cavity and one for the opposite cap to go into. Get also a C clamp that will go over the whole thing and a plastic bag that will go over the whole thing, too. With the bag and sockets and C clamp in place, tighten the clamp until the pushed clamp falls into the larger socket. Very carefully take everything apart that will come apart, (without loosing any of the pins (needle bearings)). Its a toss up if the X will come out at this point. If it will, be careful to catch all the needle bearings. If not, use the C Clamp and large socket to remove the other cap.

Do all this again to get the other two caps off. (don't loose any needle bearings)

Wash it all with (I like kerosene) a solvent and let it dry, or dry everything with a paper towel. (Cloth fibers will not go away, paper towel fibers will.)

Inspect for rust on needle bearings, inside the cap or on the X bearings. Any rust, or black marks, get new ones. [edited here to answer question]

Grease everything, put it together very carefully, often a needle bearing will fall into the cap and it won't all go all the way together. Be aware of this possibility.

And put the spring clamps back in.

Keep a hammer handy, just in case my method doesn't work.

That was easy, wasn't it.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

[N8N]

might as well just replace them rather than "inspecting" them, it's the same amount of work and they're not expensive.

*I* personally would hit the shaft with a D/A and paint it a nice semi-gloss black at the same time, but that's just me (underside of my car looks better than the topside, what does that say?)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[bams50]

Good Tom- I'll just add my tip: Instead of a C-clamp, use a bench vise. Those caps can sometimes require a LOT of force to ge them to move! Sometimes they don't move, then suddenly pop loose, dropping the shaft on your foot. Plan accordingly.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[showbizkid]

Thank you, guys. Sorry to hijack the thread, Glen


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

[glen]

Not to worry Clark, as J.S. Bach would have said, it was a
"variation on a theme".....


Sue Ellen 1964 Daytona
glen Brose
Tumbleweed Flats, AZ