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  • Other: Flushing The Cooling System

    Today I picked up the radiator and the fuel tank from the Radiator shop. The radiator needed a re-core, and I had the fuel tank boiled since fuel sat in their for so many years. The owner was explaining to me about this milky substance I can run through the block so stop future rust from occurring, and it would clean the system out. Once I got the radiator out of the car I took a water hose and flushed the crap out of the block, a lot
    of crap came out that had been sitting in there for the years that the car was sitting.

    Should I get a small bottle of this and run it along with the antifreeze? I have installed a new water pump.
    Just curious I don't want to ruin something. Thanks!






    Dylan
    I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
    pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
    "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".

    sigpic

  • #2
    You can flush till the cows come home & still wont have it clean. What you need to do is be prepared for getting WET. Really WET!! Remove the starter (dont misplace the bolts, they are special) pull out all the freeze plugs (or core plugs as they are also called) & blast the living daylights out of the inside. Core wire from when it was cast is known to have been found. The rear of the block especially likes to hold on to all the crud it has found through the years. Poke inside with coat hanger, gun cleaning brushes untill you are satisfied. Before buttoning it up give it one last blast with the heater hoses disconnected. Your gonna be replacing them now too, right? Get the correct upper & lower radiator hoses too that are molded to fit. Those universal ones not only dont look as good but are known at times to put pressure on the radiator neck & causes some failures. New thermostat, coolant & you should be set for a good drive.

    Personally I replace the pipe plugs on the sides of the block with 1/4" petcocks. Gives another area to poke through & when the time comes to replace coolant, enables you to drain the block better.
    Last edited by Warren Webb; 03-08-2013, 10:41 PM.
    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
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    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
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    • #3
      If I can suggest a strip down of the engine, thorough check of all components, clean and reassemble/rebuild as necessary. My 259 was stripped and new crankshaft main bearings, repairs to damaged valve seats, and a lot of !@#$ removed from it. It purrs now, alas I'm getting rid of it to purchase a fully restored car.

      Good luck with yours.

      I'm not suggesting you'll have similar issues, but the vehicle is arond 60 years old and must have some wear from all that use.
      John Clements
      Christchurch, New Zealand

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      • #4
        With my experience and the condition the car is right now. I was never planning on pulling the motor and going through at this time unless I found an issue with the motor, it's running and soon will be driving. In the future I plan on pulling the motor and going through the engine from top to bottom. But as a full time college student with a limited budget, I'm keeping it simple but wanting to make a nice car out of her. Thanks for the advice guys!




        Dylan
        I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
        pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
        "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".

        sigpic

        Comment


        • #5
          Fair enough, my engine ran well and it was a surprise when issues were found. Good luck with your studies (and Studes) smile.
          John Clements
          Christchurch, New Zealand

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
            You can flush till the cows come home & still wont have it clean. What you need to do is be prepared for getting WET. Really WET!! Remove the starter (dont misplace the bolts, they are special) pull out all the freeze plugs (or core plugs as they are also called) & blast the living daylights out of the inside. Core wire from when it was cast is known to have been found. The rear of the block especially likes to hold on to all the crud it has found through the years. Poke inside with coat hanger, gun cleaning brushes untill you are satisfied. Before buttoning it up give it one last blast with the heater hoses disconnected. Your gonna be replacing them now too, right? Get the correct upper & lower radiator hoses too that are molded to fit. Those universal ones not only dont look as good but are known at times to put pressure on the radiator neck & causes some failures. New thermostat, coolant & you should be set for a good drive.

            Personally I replace the pipe plugs on the sides of the block with 1/4" petcocks. Gives another area to poke through & when the time comes to replace coolant, enables you to drain the block better.
            Easy on those pipe plugs after 50+ years!!....personally, I would not disturb them.

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