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surface rust - POR-15

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  • Frame / Springs: surface rust - POR-15

    As I am getting into my project I was happy to see my hog troughs were in good shape (so far) but I know I am going to replace the floor boards and the rocker pannels but I have a lot of surface rust on the rest of the frame and under body. I have seen references to a product called POR-15 and it looks good to me. But I would like to know if others have used and how were the results. Also I was thinking of wire brushing the rust but one article said to leave it because it helps with the adheasion. Any help Thanks again

  • #2
    Originally posted by GlBoyd View Post
    As I am getting into my project I was happy to see my hog troughs were in good shape (so far) but I know I am going to replace the floor boards and the rocker pannels but I have a lot of surface rust on the rest of the frame and under body. I have seen references to a product called POR-15 and it looks good to me. But I would like to know if others have used and how were the results. Also I was thinking of wire brushing the rust but one article said to leave it because it helps with the adheasion. Any help Thanks again
    Excellent product as long as you don't try to use it on clean steel. It works great on rusty metal. I usually wire brush (by hand) the loose material off and apply with a disposable brush. Also use rubber gloves, if you get it on your hands it will need to wear off.

    Paint over it if it's exposed to the sun. Inside the hog troughs require no over coating. I did the hog troughs on the Avanti with it.

    Just follow the directions,

    Bob

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    • #3
      If you don't use it all and want to close the can I'd suggest you put a piece of plastic wrap over the open can before pressing the lid into place. I have seen friends have to cut the top of the can off once the lid and can have dried inplace.

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      • #4
        I also have some surface rust on my floor pans, both driver and passenger side of the car. I plan on installing sound deadening and then having new carpet in, as their is nothing there at the moment. I can't wait to see how it turns out for you.





        Dylan
        I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
        pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
        "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".

        sigpic

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        • #5
          Go to HOTRODDERS.com and put in por-15 in the search box and you will find all you want to know about por-15. A very good forum site for car guys.

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          • #6
            POR-15 works great for the job you have at hand. Instead of plastic wrap between the lid and the can when you are done but have some of the product left, I pour was is left into a well cleaned plastic oil can. I also store it in the refrigerator. As has been said heed the warnings that it will stay on your skin until it wears off. Be careful. I have put some POR-15 on some rust spots on the body of my Cruiser. It does not stay shiny when it is exposed to the sun. But then I used it there to stop the spread of rust until I can get to the body of the beast.
            Joe Roberts
            '61 R1 Champ
            '65 Cruiser
            Eastern North Carolina Chapter

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            • #7
              I use it all the time , when I get a new Qt. can I transfer it into smaller cans and then clean the lit and install plastic over the can grove and press fit, with only a small portion in each can you will not loose much if it goes bad,most jobs don't take much anyway and if you need to open a 2nd can it will be ready to use ,keep the small cans and they can be used again and again, buy a box of 36 2" brushes for HF as they become through away, always ware gloves and plan on getting rid them away when done, don't wipe your face or brow with any on the gloves, it will be there for some time, good luck.
              Candbstudebakers
              Castro Valley,
              California


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              • #8
                Also take a look at Rust Bullet. It is a different type of product.

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                • #9
                  From my experience both these rust products are over rated if used in the real world. Good epoxy primer over properly prepared metal is probably a better choice. If you use one I would recommend Rust Bullet as it is easier to apply and seems to hold up just as well as(or better than) POR-15. Myself, I will not use POR-15 again. I think it is over hyped and over priced. Just my view from experience with both.

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                  • #10
                    I have used POR-15 extensively. Frankly I sit in the middle of the fence on the product. They require that you used THEIR Marine Clean and THEIR Metal Ready. However, Marine Clean just turns out to be a strong caustic cleaner and Metal Ready turns out to be zinc phosphate. Both are available much cheaper at the local home improvement store. So, I tend to lose trust in a company that does that.

                    The product doesn't stick as well to clean, smooth metal as it does to coarse, rusty metal. While I would say the paint has a strong scuff quality, it does not resist sharp objects. Example, slide a wooden box across it endlessly and it should hold up well. But, get a split washer under the box and it will cut into the paint. Yet for all that it seems to come off easier than they state, don't get it on anything threaded. You will spend forever trying to get it out and the bolt in. I always describe POR-15 like the rubber in a Super Ball. Very hard and barely pliable.

                    Surface rust should not be an issue. That is probably ideal for POR-15. But for me, with deep rust, I always want to sandblast and remove it. This often leaves holes in the metal. On my Daytona I used their Matte. Frankly I find it rather thin and weak. Perhaps encased in POR-15 it get much stronger. They state it is the right property of strength to absorption. On smaller areas I have used the woven fiberglass from hobby stores which is quite strong but much thinner than automotive woven fiberglass.

                    They recommend two coats and I would agree. This is where it gets tricky. If you re-coat too soon the second coat can "pull" the first coat. Or it can prevent the first coat from curing. However, if you re-coat too late, the second coat may not adhere properly. So, getting the re-coat timing right always leaves me wondering if I got it right. Another aspect of the re-coat is the time it takes for the first coat to set up (harden) properly. The product does not dry. It hardens by absorbing moisture in the air. I have seen it set in 2 hours and other times it is pushing 10 hours - plus. It all depends on the humidity. When you do the first coat at 2PM..., and it is now midnight, and you want to shower and go to bed..., - you can't. I'd always start early in the day and plan on possibly needing the whole day - and maybe night. My actually experience has been that there is a "window" on the re-coat that seems broader than they state. But, every time I'm left to wonder.

                    Additionally, if you are going to apply Bondo or a top coat of paint you are required to do so in the same re-coat time frame. So, in the example above you could be up all night waiting to apply that third coat of Bondo or a top coat paint. This top coat may be necessary as they state that POR-15 should not be exposed to sunlight. On chassis parts, internal areas etc. that should not be an issue. For what it's worth I once used a small remaining amount on a rusty piece of metal that is exposed in my yard. It has faded a little bit, but after about 10 years it is not flaking off nor rusting underneath.

                    I do what Bob stated above. I transfer the quart to smaller containers. Vitamin jars and the like with good sealing screw-on lids work great. The stuff does spread rather far even in small quantities. Try and do the transfer on a low humidity day and fill it ALL the way to the top. I put mine in a bag and then keep them in the refrigerator (low humidity). The top will crust over (a sacrificial 1/8"), but I have used some POR-15 that was at least 5 years old. If you try to work out of the quart container you will just be increasing the setup process for the full contents.

                    Lastly, do NOT breath the fumes. That is hard to do when painting floorboards and you need to be inside the car. POR-15 told me that as long as I wasn't spraying it (I always brush it) or putting my face in the can, I was safe. But frankly I sometimes wonder.

                    So, that is my love/hate relationship with the product. I've been tempted to try the other products, but as much as I hate aspects of POR-15, at least I know what to expect.

                    Tom
                    Last edited by wittsend; 03-07-2013, 11:57 AM.
                    '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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                    • #11
                      If you want to remove POR-15 or Rust Bullet , Aircraft Paint Remove(I think that's the name, it's something like that) will melt either like butter. One advantage to Rust Bullet is you can use it over paint.

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                      • #12
                        Hi , there is a new product called DOM 16 . which is basically the same as por 15 , except you do not have to top coat it , not suppose to change color in the sun .
                        The cost is about the same as por 15 , savings are that you do not have to top coat it . btw painted the frame for my 55 coupe with it , frame is from a 62 GT . sorry do not have pic's on this computer .

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