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Help.. help a guy out please

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  • Help.. help a guy out please

    OK I know not many of you folks street rod your projects... blasphem in the eyes of most... but maybe you can help a guy with a dream out.
    Rather that take a lot of space to explain it all here. I made a separate web page that explains it all...
    NOW pleased don't skip over this just because I didn't ask here...
    I need some help and I also needs some pics for explaination,.. just figured it was better to use my own space for all that.
    Basically for some reasone wheels don't center in fenders... but you need to read the whole story here
    http://www.peachstspeedway.com/pickupguy5.htm
    Thanks for anyone that can help
    Chris

  • #2
    Well, Chris, you didn't say what kind of one-ton chassis you are using. Chevy, maybe. Can't tell from the pics.

    But I don't think that using the front end of the frame rails as the reference point is the way to go.

    I'd want to use the line joining the front cab mounts as the fore-aft zero mark in a swap like this, and maybe leave some extra length on the frame rails up front. You can always cut off the excess; much easier than welding on an extension.

    Do you still have the original chassis? Measure from the front cab mounts to the axle center line, and see how it compares with what you have now.

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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    • #3
      The M truck shop manual shows the dimension front front of frame rails to center of front wheels at 22 1/2". That extra inch back from the 21 1/2" you used may give the visual effect of two inches.


      Dwain G.

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      • #4
        HI guys.. thanks for the replies...
        let me answer you in order, and maybe we can move forward from there.
        Gordr.. I should of said this is a 46 Studebaker one ton frame... should be like comparing apples to apples. Both chassis have those little 'ears' that stick out that are 47 1/2" back from the front of the frame rails, and the cab mounts back on that. The 1/2 ton is a 46 also.
        I do have the original chassis in inmolested condition on my back porch, thats where we got all the measurements. I just went and measured, and from the front cab mounts to the center of the spindles on BOTH my production, and the old chassis is 25 1/2" SO thats where I get confused. Mine sits exacty where the old one sits no matter which direction I measure it, but when I put the fenders on they come up 'off'... makes no sense to me. Seems to me with the original cab mounting point, the original radiator mounting point, all original sheet metal.... everthing in between should go right back where it belongs.
        Dwain G... I had someone else email me and said the shop manual said 2". I didn't have a shop manual. But I suppose even if I would of had a shop manual I wouldn't of believed what the shop manual was telling me over what the tape measure was telling me right in from of my eyes. (figured a typo or something) Also I got down and used a square get the exact meagurement from where the center of the fender is, and the center of the tire, and it is off almost exactly 2"
        hotwheels.. This is a TCI front end, and it's got tubular A arms... so they are built centered in the wheel. In any event I been careful to measure of the center of the wheel.

        Thanks for all the help... maybe with continued support I can get this fixed the easiet way possible..??

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        • #5
          When I installed basically the same Mustang 2 unit under my 41 Champion I marked the centerline of the old axle and welded my crossmember in centered on that line and the hats or upper a arm mounts centered to the crossmember and wheels were centered when I put the front clip on. Unless the photo angle is deceiving me it looks like the top hat section is not centered to the crossmember, is this correct? Another thing on mine the upper hat part is different from left to right as they have anti-dive built in to them.
          What I am saying is when standing facing the upper a arm from the side it should slope down from front to rear.In the end the only solution may be to cut it loose and start over.One morething,are you using the offset lower a arms? If you are using those, the offset mount is welded on at the rear of the crossmember, having that not at the rear would certainly throw it off by 2 inches.
          Frank van Doorn
          Omaha, Ne.
          1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
          1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
          1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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          • #6
            41Frank.. you are right on thats what I did... measure back from front... (also measured up from cab mounts) and marked the centerline. Transfered that from the old chassis to the new chassis.
            I also got the upper hats with the anti-dive built in.
            As far as the pic.... I think why it looks "off" is because why shows is the custom made motor mount that is also welded to the cross member (something elses I'll have to cut loose and relocate I suppose) It sets more forward and is not centered on the crossmember and that is what shows... and makes it appeard the hat is not centered.

            OH something else... the pics we are discussing (looking down on, the hat, etc) those are from the drivers side. If they really were the way they appear in the pic and on the side they are, that would move the wheels back and not forward,... sorry for the confusion.. my bad.
            I'm not usre about the offset lower A arms. I don't believe I have them.

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            • #7
              M5Chris ! Read some older posts on this forum about engine swaps and modified 'Studes! You'll find out these 'Stude folks love modified cars[and trucks]..Did you know that the club magazine Turning Wheels,has a column devoted to 'modifieds' ??? [Although it doesn't appear every month] There's nothing like a street rod Studebaker!!

              LaSalle,Il
              61Hawk
              Oglesby,Il.

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              • #8
                My dear Chris. Whilst I'm one of those who don't approve of what you are doing, I would like, if you would permit, to offer a bit of moral support. You seem a bit... discoraged, still I'm impressed at how you are turning to those who really Know these vehicles. I would wish for you success in your endevour and Luck in your persuit. Don't give up. I've seen many a project like this completed successfully. Your problem is that you are blending the genius of several designers who didn't agree on their end product. Or several generations of designers, if you will. Once you come to the meeting of minds in this, you will find things go together better.

                Good luck. Don't give up. It'll come out right in the end.


                Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                Lotsa Larks!
                K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                Ron Smith
                Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?
                Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                Ron Smith
                Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

                Comment


                • #9
                  thanks for the moral support studeclunker
                  I know I am WAY in the minority here... so it's nice to hear from you.
                  I try to look at my endevor as keep one more Stude on the road....
                  The two I got was not in good shape.
                  I JUST saved one from the crusher, and the other was rusting away.
                  So I figure I took two trucks that would have ended up being 'nothing' and am making one that people can see on the road every day for years to come. At least I hope people will appreciate my efforts... even if they are a bit in left field LOL

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