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Transplant 62 Hwk 289 to a 63 Hawk with seized engine

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  • Engine: Transplant 62 Hwk 289 to a 63 Hawk with seized engine

    OK here is the scenario. I have a nice 63 hawk with a seized up 289 and an automatic transmission. I also have a not so nice 62 Hawk parts car with a 289 and a four speed behind it. What do you think about a transplant of the engine from the 62 to the 63? Problems? Hazards? Same driveline? What say ye ol Wzards of Studedom?

  • #2
    Other than the generator and the oil filter, they are the same. 62's had a bypass oil filter on the top of the engine (for part of the year), and late 62's and 63's had a full flow filter on the side of the block. Put the 63 alternator on it, and change the valve covers, everything else will be a bolt in. If you keep the 4 speed, you can add the pedals from the 62 to ad the clutch. If you want to keep it an auto, you will have to dial indicate the bell housing for concentricity with the axis of the crankshaft, then install oversized dowel pins. Each bell housing is a matched unit with the engine.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      I've owned three Studebakers that were procured with seized engines. All three were made to be un-seized; two of them without ever taking off the head or crankcase. The Rockne sat for thirty-one years and both the engine and clutch were seized. I've now put over two-thousand miles on it and the engine and clutch have not been apart!
      Not all seized engines can be made whole but, I imagine a great number have been pitched because it would have required a little effort.
      Use the easiest to make operable but do not discard the spare.
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10,
      '51 Commander Starlight,
      '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
      '56 Sky Hawk

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      • #4
        Do you know why its seized? What have you done already to break it loose? There are several methods mentioned here on the forum that all seem to work well, from Coke to Marvel Mystery to ATF to kerosene. That would certainly be the easiest method to try first. I mean, its worth a shot. I've had good luck spraying penetrating oil in all the spark plug holes. Repeat every few days for a week or 10 days.
        Although, the 4 speed makes for a great driving car. That would not be a terribly difficult swap, either. Everything is a bolt in. Don't forget the rear end to go with the 4 speed. You may not be too happy bangin' gears with a 3.07 rear.
        And don't worry at all about the partial flow filter, if it has one. You can safely run the 289 without an oil filter if need be. Just keep an eye on the oil changes.
        Let us know what you find out.
        sals54

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        • #5
          Farrier1951...PM sent.

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          • #6
            What is your realistic design for this car ? If to restore...find & fix the stock set up. If simply for fun "driving".....I'd try the loosening techniques from the forum and drive the snot out of the 63' til it drops....Then go back to the 62'.......This assumes you can store the 2 vehicles. Best for your buck....and Stude buyers don't care about mis-matched engines.....have fun GL

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            • #7
              Don't forget that the bolts on the rear of the crank are a different length between automatic and manual transmissions.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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              • #8
                Thanks guys! I pulled all the sparkplugs yesterday and I will start squirting some penatrating fluid in each hole tomorrow. I at first thought the crank was moving a bit but it was just the bolt turning.
                Spoke to previous owner and he suggested same as you guys. I will work at that for a while trying to free it up. I was told that the engine let go of a connecting rod some time ago and was sleved in one cylinder. I also was told that there is a mild cam in it and that the transmission has been modified to start in first gear.

                My intention is to have a driver. I don't care about original or matching numbers or the like, just a nice Hawk to take my wife on a cruise up the Columbia River Gorge and to the coast and maybe a few club outings. Thanks again for the kind responses and I will post where it goes from here.

                Jim

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                • #9
                  I freed a stuck 51 caddy convertible motor by putting marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and going out with a good fresh battery and hitting the starter fifteen or twenty times. I did this at least once a day for a couple of weeks and it eventually freed itself. I eventually sold it to a man with enough money to turn the rust bucket into a fine car.

                  i also did this with a 53 studebaker coupe which had one of those replacement 185 flatheads in it.

                  I was afraid I'd break off the crank pully bolt trying to free it with that.
                  Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                  • #10
                    Use Marvel Mystery Oil, or even a 50/50 blend of brake fluid and acetone for penetration. If you are attempting to turn the crank, and all eight seized pistons, with the pulley center bolt, give it up. Pull out the starter and use a stout pry bar on the ring gear. It will be minimally invasive and maximally torqued, at the same time gentle on your cylinder walls and rings.
                    Once it starts moving, I would exercise patience and pry bar the ring gear through several complete revolutions before re-lubricating and attempting to turn it over with the battery and starter. That's what I did with a '60 VI convertible that had sat outside for twelve years.

                    I was not so gentle with the Rockne. It had been in a garage for thirty-one years. I soaked the cylinders every few days for a couple of weeks. Then I hooked a chain from the '60 convertible to the Rockne; put the Rockne in gear and proceeded up the driveway. I can't really describe the sound when it broke loose but, I've put two-thousand miles on it since then and replaced nothing more than the head gasket.
                    Last edited by rockne10; 01-11-2013, 07:03 PM.
                    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    '33 Rockne 10,
                    '51 Commander Starlight,
                    '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
                    '56 Sky Hawk

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      James, It sounds like you just may have an Avanti powered GT on your hands. Does the engine have chrome valve covers and a chrome air cleaner?? Also, does it have an automatic trans with a floor shift??? C'mon man.... details... details.... this is important. And besides, if it has those options, the next consideration is to look for traction bars, 160 mph speedometer, disc brakes, and on and on. Look deeper into this and report back ASAP. I'm dyin to know.
                      sals54

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
                        I've owned three Studebakers that were procured with seized engines. All three were made to be un-seized; two of them without ever taking off the head or crankcase. The Rockne sat for thirty-one years and both the engine and clutch were seized. I've now put over two-thousand miles on it and the engine and clutch have not been apart!
                        Not all seized engines can be made whole but, I imagine a great number have been pitched because it would have required a little effort.
                        Use the easiest to make operable but do not discard the spare.
                        It's OK to free up a stuck engine to hear it run.....but if You don't soon after pull that engine down for close inspection....You're really not playing with a 'full deck'. (Not You....the engine!!)

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                        • #13
                          As far as it being an Avanti engine the stamped number on the drivers side, front of the engine block would tell the story by being one starting with either JT, JTS or R. If it starts with an R then it was originally installed in an Avanti.
                          59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                          60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                          61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                          62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                          62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                          62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                          63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                          63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                          64 Zip Van
                          66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                          66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                            As far as it being an Avanti engine the stamped number on the drivers side, front of the engine block would tell the story by being one starting with either JT, JTS or R. If it starts with an R then it was originally installed in an Avanti.
                            Don't forget 'RS' on the Avanti engine number possibles!!

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                            • #15
                              Hey Guys,
                              Well went out to the barn today and pulled all eight plugs and squirted in penetrant and mystery oil in each hole again. I am gonna do that every day for a week or more and see if that helps. Now I looked and looked but couldnt see the numbers on the block but will look again tomorrow after I take my wife horseback riding. This car is an automatic with a 120mph speedo and a tach. The engine has crome valve covers with breather caps on each. There is no carb on it but it is a 4 barrel manifold. Disc brake calipers on front but some parts missing The transmission shifts on the column. SN-60 I agree about running the engine. I am just interested in seeing if it will loosen up. If it will then I will proceed to pulling valve covers to look at valve train and then heads and pan to see what is going on inside. Would rather use this engine and tranny and keep the other to build for the 56-57 that I hope to get someday. Body and interior is in good shape and no real rust problems like the 62 parts car. Thanks a lot fellas for your input and I will find that stamping tomorrow and post it but I do believe it is probably a tamer version than tthAvanti or Jetthrust.

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